Where do you get the bolt?

 

I bought my bolt from Amsoil, but HATE their self sealing washer that they sell with it (don't buy their washer). I used the Amsoil STHB and used my own flat washer with a thick rubber sealing washer against the pan.

 

Dumb question, but how does the oil mist get sucked into the intake on a Common Rail? I have a 2005 in my F250 and an Oilguard bypass with the return to the oil fill cap and would hate for any problems to arise.

Thanks for the info.

Rusty

 

I have a question for all of you guys who are running the single or double Bypass system.

How long are you guys running your oil w/ the Bypass system? Is it longer then 7,000 miles(what I run on a traditional oil change, using Amsoil).

 

I don't have a bypass yet, but I think it would be highly recommended that if you go over the 7500 mile mark you should be doing oil analysis. I know when I do get my kit installed I'll be sending samples off about every 2500-3000 miles to be safe. I'd like to see a million miles out this engine!

 

Let oil analysis be your guide as to how far you can run your oil. There is no way to know the condition of your oil w/o a UOA (used oil analysis), period.

As long as there is no outside contamination then a 12 TBN HDEO oil can easily be run 10K minimum with a full flow filter alone.....more along the lines of 15K (no outside contamination).
There's nothing wrong with that, but it's overkill IMO.

 

I guess I should revise that. Every 2500-3000 miles over the initial 7500 miles. It might be more or less depending on the OA results. I'm just guessing right now since I haven't done one.

 

After my previous post, I did some checking on the internet (haven't looked under the truck yet). Along the driver's side of the engine block, down on the side closest to the bottom of the casting where the oil pan meets the engine block, there may be 2-3 locations that are plugged but were for allowing different dipstick tube installation locations for other vehicle applications. I found this information for older Cummins engines offering crankcase ventilation installations with drain lines that return oil through the optional dipstick locaitons. The location on the engine is probably behind the side mounted computer on the engine.

 

If you look under your truck on the passenger side of the block just above the pan, and ahead of the turbo drain there is a frost plug that can be removed. You have to buy another turbo drain and solder a fitting onto it to utilize this as a bypass drain. I considered this but the bypass cap was too easy, and I'm not a fan of punching holes in the oilpan.

 

I went and read the web page and see that they are talking about the VW's TDI and BMW's engines and not a Cummins engine. If oil mist was thought to be a problem I can not see Amsoil or the people who make the other brands telling us we can use the oil cap (or Amsoil making one) to return the oil to the engine!

 

OK im new to the UOA's how does one go about doing this? Where do you take the oil from to send in? I put a lot of miles on my truck (over 2400 last week) and want a by-pass filter and to be able to extend my oil changes. I sometimes change my oil once a week when time permits!

I would also like to know more about the oil misting I read that website as well but I hardly think you can compare VW's and BMW's to the Cummins?

 

I installed the BMK-11 not so much with the idea of extending my oil life or oil changing timeframe, but more with the idea of getting the smaller particles that are more relative to doing the engine damage. The stratapore filter gets down to about 12 micron sized particles (I believe). I have read many technical articles that discuss how particles from 12 microns down to about 3-4 microns are more responsible for engine wear. Since the Amsoil EaBP100 fiter is the only bypass filter that is 98.7% efficient 'absolute' at 2 microns, I thought it's addition would go a long way to controlling particle type damages.

While the potential for extended use is a great idea, we still have acids, etc to contend with in the oil, all of which also decrease engine life due to wear. I get that doing oil anaylsis helps to determine the status of the oil in regard to all these things, but in the overall oil and filters are the cheaper side to peace of mind, and certainly a lot cheaper over time as compared to major engine repairs and overhauls. I would rather spend $30 bucks on a bypass filter and know that I am doing the best I can do for my engines performance and life epectancy. Seems like a good insurance policy. I am not a high mileage driver, about 1K per month, but I do drive in very dusty conditions.

CD

 

Here's mine mounted to battery box, works great, thx Chuck @ Duluth

 

Here's my new Bypass install bolted into battery box. Along with my Nano. It is fed by port at top of stock oil filter & is routed to filler cap. Sweeet

 

The whole "oil misting" theory only applies for third genners since the oil fill cap is on the valve covers correct? On my 12v, the oil fill tube goes into the timing cover, not the valve cover. See any problem with tapping into there?