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Am I running too hot?!?

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Old 04-08-2011 | 09:37 PM
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Am I running too hot?!?

Pulled my new travel trailer today (35' 9200lbs, 13ft high by 8ft wide) and I feel that I am running way too hot for what I should be, but I want to get the experts advice. My conditions were the following: highway running 60mph with the overdrive off into a 15-20mph headwind, 80 degrees, EGT's were 1000-1100 on flat, 1250 on a slight but short incline with speed decreasing just to keep it at that. Boost was at 30psi consistent, tranny temps were 205, engine temp over 200*.

I really want to know if that is too hot for my set-up as any pushing on the skinny pedal just makes my EGT's skyrocket past 1250. So if it is too hot, what are some of my options? I see the following but would like input.

Smarty Jr- I've heard it lowers EGT's while towing, but I am afraid that with my 50HP injectors and stock turbo it might only increase my EGT's that much more. I also am afraid that it might be too much for my stock fuel system.

Water Meth- Sounds good, but running it in these conditions would be constant and I think deplete my tank pretty quickly

Intercooler- maybe, but pretty pricey and I think the stock one is ok considering I am only lightly modified

New turbo- Am I at that stage? With the overbored engine, bigger sticks and larger trailer, am I at the max that my stock one will handle? If I need one what do you recommend? I looked at doing the he351vgt conversion from a 6.7, (the exhaust brake function is nice) but do they support anymore than what I have now) Would I be able to spool twins if I kept my stock one for one of the turbos?

Thanks for any and all replies. Hopefully I am making it out to be more than I need, but my comfort factor just isn't there right yet.
Old 04-08-2011 | 09:43 PM
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The only difference between you truck and mine is the tranny temp. I run a little cooler when I tow my 15k 5ver, but I leave the truck in tow haul. They want these engines to run hotter so 200* is ok. You should see the fan come on around 210-215*.

Your egt's are excellent, do not worry about running in that range when towin g in the conditions you were in.
Old 04-08-2011 | 09:47 PM
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did you notice a difference in tranny temps with the Mag-hytec tranny pan? As for excellent EGT's, I feel that I am right at the edge of the safe zone, how much more do I have to play with? I don't want to run on the ragged edge all the time.
Old 04-08-2011 | 09:54 PM
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Yes a small difference with the tranny pan. You want the torque converter locked up as much as possible when towing, that is where all your tranny heat is generated.

I run my truck to 1400* before I ease off the throttle and let the truck slow down a tad and down shift. I also never run the truck more than 1/4 throttle when towing. Cummins says these ISB engines will handle 1450* for a period of time albeit not constantly. I have spiked my truck to 1500* by mashing it to get around a semi pulling 6% grade but backed off once I passed with no ill affect thus far. but that is only once and a while.
Old 04-09-2011 | 01:59 PM
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Thanks for the info, it puts me a little more at ease. I think i still might look at something to help a little bit. I think my overbore and injectors without the proper tuning (ie programmer) is just dumping fuel without utilizing it to it fullest. I'm thinking a Smarty Jr. might be the ticket.
Old 04-09-2011 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 89dieselkong
Thanks for the info, it puts me a little more at ease. I think i still might look at something to help a little bit. I think my overbore and injectors without the proper tuning (ie programmer) is just dumping fuel without utilizing it to it fullest. I'm thinking a Smarty Jr. might be the ticket.

I just spent the money I had saved for a Smarty on the drive shaft. I will be getting one in the future.
Old 04-09-2011 | 07:04 PM
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I spray water when I tow heavy, it helps a lot. You just have to know how to use it.

I had a 5 gallon tank that would last about half a tank in the mountains.

Why do you still have a stock turbo? You have a lot of work done to the truck, get a set of twins, like a stocker over S400-ish (you could probably go a little bigger) or a single matched to your truck?
Old 04-10-2011 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by madhat
I spray water when I tow heavy, it helps a lot. You just have to know how to use it.

I had a 5 gallon tank that would last about half a tank in the mountains.

Why do you still have a stock turbo? You have a lot of work done to the truck, get a set of twins, like a stocker over S400-ish (you could probably go a little bigger) or a single matched to your truck?
you really think I'm out of the range of the stock turbo? I didn't really think I had that much done to the engine that would warrant it. After thinking about it, let me know if I am thinking correctly. I'm thinking part of problem is that I am still running stock timing on an engine that has been bored .40 over with bigger injectors. the timing needs to be adjusted to make the most "efficient" use of everything. i really would love twins (who wouldn't) but they are expensive. is there a more cost effective way to do it rather than buying a kit? I know there are tons of threads on it, but what would be the most "financially" reasonable single or twins set-up? is the Smarty Jr. still going to be necessary?
Old 04-10-2011 | 09:43 AM
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put the smarty jr on sw2 and you will be fine. i have several 06's setup this way and i tow very heavy. if you will change your cam to a pdr or colt you will gain another two miles per gallon and lower egt' even more. the 50 hp injectors coupled with the jr and cam run lower egt than stock because it get's rid of most in- cylinder egr and overall gives 40% increase in mpg. the turbo can handle the sw2 setting but not the sw3 setting. the way your truck works the boost fooler does not do anything
Old 04-10-2011 | 10:02 AM
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You can do a roctech sensor to advance your timing a little.

The smarty jr would help.

You have to remember, the stock turbo was built to be efficient with a stock set up. You're adding more fuel and more room in the cylinders for it to burn.

Here is a stocker twins kit:

http://www.maximizedperformanceinc.com/pricing.htm

Wicked diesel was doing one for around 4k, but I can't find the website.

Or, you can look at a matched single for about 2k-ish. I think you would be fine with a single, but twins are better for towing performance, in my opinion.

Your temps are ok... but if you're having to get out of it, then you need to change something.
Old 04-10-2011 | 10:42 AM
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highway running 60mph with the overdrive off into a 15-20mph headwind, 80 degrees, EGT's were 1000-1100 on flat, 1250 on a slight but short incline with speed decreasing just to keep it at that. Boost was at 30psi consistent, tranny temps were 205, engine temp over 200*.
What rpms were you running at 60 mph?

Sounds pretty normal and consistent on a basically stock tuned engine. These engines run a lot more EGT's with the stock timing. You were not even close to problems yet as 1400 is really the break off point. More than likely that was due to running in drive instead of OD and was likely the source of engine and trans temp. You need to get it to pull in OD for best results.

That trailer is not enough to even worry about in weight. Into a headwind is going to make some difference but not that much.

The bore on the engine and sticks is not enough to warrant a turbo change at this point or even consider water injection. At 30 psi the trubo is quite happy and well within its map.

A Smarty will make a difference in how the engine pulls and the temps when you change the timing. Add some power and timing and it will pull better in OD generally with a lot less EGT's.

The big question is will the trans handle it without upgrades. You are probably on the border line of enough pressure to hold at the rpms you want to run at. I would go with a Smarty Sr and play with your settings until it looks good.
Old 04-10-2011 | 11:39 AM
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Thanks everyone. The trans is already built (not in my sig) with a billet TC, shift kit, heavy duty clutches, bands, etc. It told the shop to build it to hold 450hp and tow 12,500 and that is what he did. I have talked to a few hotshotters that have had their trans built by this shop and they say they have held that and beyond for years. I think I am going to try the Smarty sr/jr to start and go from there.

The RPM's were around 2200-2300, I couldn't give it anymore to get it into O/D because the EGT's would get too high (1400-1500) Pulling into that wind was tough. I had all I could do to maintain 6omph.

I agree about the boost fooler, the only time it works is when i get on it for fun (usually never) I tried it as a first step to cool EGT's. If the Smarty Jr. does it for me, I'll probably sell it.
Old 04-10-2011 | 02:47 PM
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The higher your rpm's go the more EGT you will see, need to get them back down around 2000 to make the temps good.

Smarty doesn't boost fool so you will still need the fooler to get the boost above 30 psi when its needed. Add ing the Smarty with alittle more power and timing advance should allow to run in OD in those same conditions without it constantly dropping in and out. Even if you see 1200 on the hills that is well within parameters.
Old 04-12-2011 | 02:22 PM
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Is there any other tuner/chip/programmer that would help lower EGT's? Something like the Daiblosport Predator or a Quad Xzillerator? The Smarty is the prefered, but expensive. Just looking to see if there is a "more fiscally responsible" option.
Old 04-12-2011 | 03:26 PM
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As others have stated for a stock truck those are normal temps. 100% stock trucks will run 1450* all day long, its how they were designed to meet emissions. With the injectors I would try to limit your EGT's to 1400* continuous.

You want the Jr, it's worth the $$$

A Smarty Jr would be a great upgrade, I would set it on SW1 TM2 TQ3 and tow all day with it. For 90% or more of people the Jr is all that is needed to boost more than stock, but some trucks don't accept the Jr's way of doing it and a boost fooler is needed. I would install the Jr and see what happens.

This is my chart for EGT's for the Smarty Jr.

TM1: 1400 max cont, 1450 momentary
TM2: 1300 max cont, 1350 momentary
TM3: 1350 max cont, 1400 momentary
TM4: 1250 max cont, 1300 momentary
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