3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

About to buy, some advice please

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Old 07-08-2009, 03:05 PM
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About to buy '03-'05, some advice please

I’m looking for a new to me truck and hoping you guys can help. I will use it soley to tow and occasional runs to Home Depot etc. I will be pulling an enclosed 24ft car hauler that weighs about 8500 lbs loaded. Also a boat that’s about 4000lbs.

I’ve pretty much narrowed my selection to Dodge diesel 2003-2005. This is based on pricing and towing mileage. I am looking for 4 door, 2wd, diesel, SRW, $10-13k, 100-150k miles.

Now come the questions. First, what are the differences I need to be aware of in the 2003 to 2005 models? Anything of note? I am aware of the fuel filter problem associated with the high pressure injectors and plan to change to a 2mic filter after purchase. This affects all 5.9L engines within the 2003-2005 range correct?

Second, what are the differences between the 2500 and 3500? I drove a 3500 and the ride wasn’t too bad. Is the susp the only difference? Would it make sense to get a 3500 over a 2500 if pricing is better? What about maintenance, any increased costs with the 3500?

Last, Anything I should look out for or be leery of when looking for trucks? I guess one question I have is how do I know if the injectors are ‘about’ to go? If I add some injector cleaner and change out the fuel filter I should be ok?

That’s about all I can think of. Based on what I need the truck for and the price range (I’m in TX, so lots of Dodges) what do you recommend?

Thanks in advance for any/all opinions/advise!
Old 07-08-2009, 03:26 PM
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I just spent the last year looking for the right truck, so can answer some of your questions. This is just some basic info, and there are more details that im sure others can elaborate on.

2003- Early 2004 had 2 (not including cali) motors...Standard Output (265HP?) ans High Output(305hp). SO's also have a 47RE auto, where the HO has a 48RE. 48RE seems to be the more reliable transmission of the two. If you look at the 8th character of the VIN number a 6 is and SO/47, and C is a HO/48. I dont' think either of these have a Cat from the factory, and get pretty good mileage. Edit: If you look at an 04 thats a C vin, you actually have to check the tag on the motor to see if its 305 or 325.

2004.5-2005 bumped the nubmers to 325hp and 600 tq. They do have a cat, as well as different injectors (i think??). 48RE autos. VERY slightly updated interior in 2004. They also have stock 4" exhaust.

One thing that i was leary about when looking was a plow...though i dont' think you will probably encounter that down yonder!

Last thing i can say is get a carfax.....let me say it again....haha...get a carfax!!! I was almost ready to buy a F-350 (momentary lapse in judgement...please forgve me!!!) and got the carfax "just to see". Yeah, it was a total loss/salvage truck. Best $35 i ever spent!!

Good luck in your search!!
Old 07-08-2009, 03:33 PM
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See already somethng I didn't know!

So, if I get a 2003-2004.5 HO truck will that get better or worse mileage than the 2004.5-2005 model years with the cat and 4" exhaust? Also, same potential injector problem?

Oh ya, why a cat on a diesel?? I had no idea..
Old 07-08-2009, 04:05 PM
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i think the general concensus is better mpg on a 03-04HO than the 04.5+. You will be doing pretty well with a 2wd either way, though.

I had originally limited my search to the 305/555 motor because of mileage....but because i couldnt' find one for decent money w\o a bazillion miles on it, i started including 325/600 trucks. pretty happy i did, though im only getting 16ish combined, and 19ish on the highway. Truth be told about the city/highway though.....i cant' keep my foot out of it! its too fun!!
Old 07-08-2009, 05:45 PM
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I may be wrong but I think the only real difference between a 2500 and 3500 is the overload springs.
Old 07-09-2009, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ICL
I may be wrong but I think the only real difference between a 2500 and 3500 is the overload springs.
Correct... The only difference on a 2500 and a 3500 SINGLE wheel is the overload springs. And about a $1000 price tag difference from the dealer. Of course, there are a few more obvious differences on a 2500 and 3500 dually.
Old 07-09-2009, 11:53 AM
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[QUOTE=riffman;2522078]

2003- Early 2004 had 2 (not including cali) motors...Standard Output (265HP?) ans High Output(305hp). SO's also have a 47RE auto, where the HO has a 48RE. 48RE seems to be the more reliable transmission of the two. If you look at the 8th character of the VIN number a 6 is and SO/47, and C is a HO/48. I dont' think either of these have a Cat from the factory, and get pretty good mileage. Edit: If you look at an 04 thats a C vin, you actually have to check the tag on the motor to see if its 305 or 325.


QUOTE]

Ok, so 2003 its easy to see if it has the HO/48 -8th character in vin is C.

For the 2004 if it has a C it could be the cat motor (325) or precat motor (305).

Is there an easy way to tell if you are looking in the engine bay to determine if its a 2004 vs 2004.5? I mean something I can tell the dealer go look at 'this' and that will let me know difinitively which motor it has. (I don't like telling them to look for the cat because a lot of people remove here in TX)


I'd like to stick with the pre-cat HO motor if possible for fuel savings.
Old 07-09-2009, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by robertm
Would it make sense to get a 3500 over a 2500 if pricing is better? What about maintenance, any increased costs with the 3500?

Last, Anything I should look out for or be leery of when looking for trucks? I guess one question I have is how do I know if the injectors are ‘about’ to go? If I add some injector cleaner and change out the fuel filter I should be ok?

The only cost you'll see is increased insurance and registration costs around here.


If she is hard to crank, runs bad, smokes at idle or cruising speeds I'd be leary.
Old 07-09-2009, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by robertm
Is there an easy way to tell if you are looking in the engine bay to determine if its a 2004 vs 2004.5? I mean something I can tell the dealer go look at 'this' and that will let me know difinitively which motor it has. (I don't like telling them to look for the cat because a lot of people remove here in TX)
Yup....have em pop the hood. theres a tag on the drivers side of the engine on the valve cover that lists hp. If it says 325, then that would be an 04.5.
Old 07-09-2009, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Rednecktastic
The only cost you'll see is increased insurance and registration costs around here.
Ooh, good to know. I never thought of insurance differences. I can find that info out pretty easy. You happen to know offhand what the TX state reg cost difference is?

Originally Posted by riffman
Yup....have em pop the hood. theres a tag on the drivers side of the engine on the valve cover that lists hp. If it says 325, then that would be an 04.5.

Now see that's way to complicated Thanks that makes it very easy!
Old 07-09-2009, 12:48 PM
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Are you really finding these for $10-13k? Sounds cheap for what I have seen around me..
Old 07-09-2009, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JP-4.5
Are you really finding these for $10-13k? Sounds cheap for what I have seen around me..
Believe it or not, in TX yes. I'm finding multiple '03-'04 ~120k mi trucks for ~$13k asking price. I figure I should be able to knock $1.5k off the asking price.

One thing I have noticed is over 95% of the trucks available in the country within my search parameters are in TX. There's a reason they call this Truck Country

This weekend I'm going to look at a '04 manual 95k mi that lists for $13k and an '04 auto 126k that lists for $14k. Both are 2wd, quad cab, 2500.
Old 07-09-2009, 01:33 PM
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I don't know about the price but it isn't much if you find the 'right truck'. If you by chance find an odd ball 3500 2wd SRW that is right for you then buy it.


I think between my 1500 and 2500 I think it was like $30-40 more on registration. Insurance would be more too I'd imagine between a 2500-3500.
I'm just saying all together it could end up costing you a couple + hundred more a year so it's something to consider if you're looking at 2 equal trucks.



If parking isn't an issue then why not look at 3500 DRW trucks too if you only plan to use the truck to tow. That 8500lbs plus random cargo and a DRW would drive better but not really be a necessity.... it would be a luxury having DRW at those loads.
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