My truck with 159k has been getting harder to shift into 1st/2nd when at a light and sometimes nearly impossible into reverse. Though it will still easily drop in 3/4/5/6 when stopped.

On thinking about when I've had problems and experimenting, I've discovered if I park with the front of the truck up a steep hill, it will drop into every gear easily every time. However, if I park the front of the truck down hill, it is impossible to shift into 1/2/R unless the engine is turned off.

First tranny fluid change was to Amsoil Synchromesh MTF at 100k and I just did another to elliminate the fluid. First change was standard fill, but this time I put in 5-1/2 quarts.

Have checked the Clutch Master Cylinder and it is full as required.

No fluid leaks on the truck.

My guess is either the slave cylinder is getting worn and not completely releasing the clutch or the pilot bearing is going.

Ideas?

 

You pretty much hit the nail on the head. I'd lean more towards the slave cylinder not releasing the clutch all the way. If you tear it down, replace the pilot bearing even if you don't put a new clutch in. I had my machinist neighbor bore out the center of my flywheel so that I could install a larger, sealed, roller bearing so that I would have peace of mind knowing that the crappy little bearing they put in these flywheels isn't gonna take a poop on me.

 

I had the same symptoms you described with the exception of my after market clutch. Then one day it up and quit shifting all together. The problem? SLAVE CYLINDER. Put in an after market from SBC, problem solved.....

 

Ordered the a new master/slave assembly from mopar. Would have gone with the SBC, but it was over $100 more and I didn't want to mess with the remote resevoir though the I liked the braided line.

Hope to get it installed in the next couple of nights before the current one dies completely.

While I was ordering parts, ordered the 8.5 steering upgrade too which suprised me they had in stock including the stabilizer.

 

No joy after replacing the master/slave. Just made it harder to depress the clutch pedal. Still having issues getting it to drop into 1/2 at traffic lights and 1/2/R if nose pointed down hill.

My clutch pedal has always been a bit on harder than other trucks, but now I might as well be driving an old semi.

Guess it's time to pull the transmission and inspect the bearings, clutch and pressure plate. Hate the idea of having to pull that heavy beast.

I don't slip the clutch at traffic lights and never overloaded the truck. First few years I pulled a 12k camper but the last few have only been a 2,500# TC. So I would think the clutch should last a lot longer.

 

Once you get trans out you might find that the throwout bearing isn't sliding freely on the input shaft.....but, you'll have the trans out so you might as well go over with a fine-toothed comb. Keep us posted.

 

Man that stinks, let us know how it turns out. I would replace everything as long as you have it apart.

 

You know it isn't a good start to pulling when you can't get the first part out of the way.

How in the heck do you get the 4wd **** off after you remove the insert and nut?

Edit: Never mind, finally tried uncrewing it again though I had tried it a couple times before. It was so tight, it finally made such a loud "snap", I thought something had broke at first.

 

Finally have the transmission out and think it'll be fixed once I get it back together. It was a bit of a pain being tight in my garage, but since I didn't plan on pulling any of the parts from under the truck, figured it was doable.



Throw-out bearing is dry and would have totally gone not to much longer. Can tell by all the rust dust and how rough it feels. The shaft is dry and while easy to move the bearing, I'm sure it was very hard to move once it started pushing on the pressure plate. The spline is dry and slightly corroded, so will need some good detailing.



Clutch and pressure plate are okay without damage. However, the clutch was getting close to needing replacing anyhow.



The flywheel is near perfect. Except for being able to feel a texture difference between the clean and dirty part, there is not feelable wear. The pilot bearing still has what you may call grease, but it is close to being dry too. Except for polishing the flywheel surface with 180 grit emery as recommended in the service manual, I don't plan on replacing it. Question is if I need to pull it to change out the pilot bearing?



Still need to check the fork for wear, but doubt it will need replacing.

So. my parts list to order on Monday:
1) clutch kit which will include the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw-out bearing
2) rear transmission seal (it was just starting to ooze anyhow)

Since the truck is and shall stay stock as long as I own it, towing is only occasional and about 12k max, not to mention my daily driver, which replacement clutch would you recommend?

 

If you're putting a new clutch in then it's a must to have the flywheel re-surfaced. Any clutch shop can do it. Only takes a minute. The last thing you want is a new clutch wearing against a worn flywheel.....kinda like putting new brake pads on warped rotors.

If you don't plan on working the truck then a stock type replacement will work just fine. Valeo is an economical choice.....SouthBend and Valair also make quality units as well, just a bit more money. Do a search for replacement clutches and you'll come to a conclusion.

 

Took care of having the flywheel re-surfaced as suggested. Order a new release lever from Dodge and clutch kit (1947-O) from SBC. So all the parts will be here by Wednesday.

Can hardly wait until I can drive and easily shift it again.

 

Great time to replace the rear main seal as well.

 

Yep, had been thinking that, especially since there is a little oil on the back of the block but not very much. Picking up the part today and installing it tonight while I wait on the other parts.

 

While I had it apart, replace the engine rear main seal and adapter seal in the rear of the transmission.

Have it all backed together and it is definitely a lot better. Sure is nice to be stopped at a traffic light and know that when the light goes green I'll be able to depress the clutch and have it drop in gear.

Only thing I've notice is that there is a new rattle when idling in neutral with the clutch out. The noise isn't there every time I try it, but comes and goes. Is this normal or something I should be worried about?

 

Clutch springs...my SBC does that too.

Lucky you didn't seem to need to replace blocker rings (synchro's). Mine were ground down to almost non existent, but that is what happens when the idiot previous owner puts gear oil in the trans!!!