topless

When I had my '04.5 1t dually, I bought a new converter. The stock one had way too much slip, especially when towing. Then I found out that my long bed, QC, dually, 2wd would not move in 3-4 inches of snow without putting 700-1000 lbs in the bed, so I traded it for my '05 QC 4x4. I put 35" tires on the 3rd day I owned it and the stock converter wouldn't go at all, it just slipped. So, I had my new converter installed in this truck at about 100 miles, and never regretted it. It cost about $900, but has all the good stuff, billet housing, triple disc, HD sprag, etc. It was made by a company called Precision, we have used their converters in race cars for years. I also had a deeper pan put on at the same time and I wish I had put in better input, tail shafts and valve body so I wouldn't be afraid of launching hard in 4wd. But, since fuel costs have risen so much, I don't hot rod it like I used to when fuel was under $2/gallon.

Idaho Guy

$900 - was that the installed, out the door price? Or just the price of the TC?

I'd like to drop in a new TC myself. I like the 48RE (especially compared to the 47RE I had in my old '99) but the TC's on these trucks SUCK - at least on mine anyway. Way too much slip.

topless

That was the cost of the converter. I paid a friend in a tranny shop $200 to install it and the deeper pan. It took him about 2 hours. That covered all the new fluids and he put in a new filter too, just because.
Just to give you something to compare to, my converter only flashes about 400 rpm from a dead stop at full throttle. As I remember the stock one was closer to 800. It's a huge difference when towing and I know the tranny runs a lot cooler. Slippage is wasted energy=heat.

NJDiverDan

topless, thanks for the info about the converter, it still may be in my future because I want to put another 100-200k on this truck.

As for mileage, guys, I get what I get. I run at 1900 rpm at 70. 2300 @80. I run BF Rugged?? Trail (what ever the off road option was) tires.

To indicated the style of driving I do, I got 110k miles on my original front breaks, still on my rears with 135k. I got 70 k miles on my original tires, on my second set now. Around 140k I figure I will be in for rear breaks and new tires. I run normal Rotella oil, and my truck sits idleing for 15 minutes any cold morning (everymorning lately) to warm up becasue I drop my daughter at daycare on my way to work. Work is 75 miles each way, no significant climbs, but not all flat either.

So I have about 500 miles on the new U-joints now and no re-occurance of the transmission slips. The U-joints were $85 each and $125 labor to put them in, I know someone asked about that.

-dan

hoosierdodge

My '04 slips going to third. It doesn't do it all the time. If I floor it from a stand still, no slip. If I take off easy, no slip. If I take off and accelerate before it hits third, it slips going into third.
Any ideas what this is about. I know nothing about transmissions.

badme

It means your screwed.

adkl1

75 miles to work i drive 3 miles and i think thats far enoungh. WOW i couldn't do it....... bye the way i would be happy to see 18 mpg's on the highway with my 06...

Revolution

my 05 seems to be doing exactly what hoosierdodge says his is doing. what would be the problem?

Revolution

when you punch the truck down at around 30mph should the truck go or kinda rev up then go?

hammerjammer

Must have been a 40 knot tailwind or maybe he was reading the overhead.

dylan

Gents:

please advise what a slipping trans dose, mine may be slipping...

Revolution

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Revolution

does anyone know?

DBLR

One way to describe it is it takes longer then normal to shift between gears, a pause. Some times it will only do it in one gear and some times in more then one. Also some will rev the engine up more then normal before it shifts in to gear or you put it in gear, hit the go pedal and you get a long pause before it starts to move or strains to move and then grabs hold, drives normal until the next time.