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48re hard downshift

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Old 01-21-2011 | 11:45 AM
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48re hard downshift

i tried a search didnt find really what i was looking for. when comming to a stop the dodge down shif very hard and holds the gear really long. Is it safe to say that it is the gov solenoid? If that is the case i will go with the gm solenoid
Old 01-22-2011 | 07:14 PM
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bump, anyone?

btw tranny is stock.
Old 01-22-2011 | 07:38 PM
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That is one symptom of a bad solenoid and\or transducer. Replace them both and go from there.
Old 01-24-2011 | 10:47 PM
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ok ordered the parts online hopefully it works
Old 06-01-2011 | 11:50 PM
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i am bringing this thread back since i am still having problems. The hard down shift is gone but it still holds the rpms high and in turns the rpms shoot up and it will shift again. also it starts in second gear. I replaced the gov. with the gm version and the transducer. I dont know what else to do to try and fix this on my own. Any help will be appreciated.
Old 06-02-2011 | 04:31 AM
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Apparently the governor pressure solenoids are often faulty even when new. A few months ago I started getting the shuttle shifting issue. At the same time my truck also started with the harsh downshift and sloppy upshift while sitting in slow traffic. I installed a new solenoid and transducer and the shuttle shift disappeared but the sloppy shifting has remained. It really sucks because my trans has been the best shifting one of any CTD truck I have ever ridden in. It still performs great except when I'm in traffic although I get that downshift clunk almost everytime I came to a stop. Anyways, I was considering a new valve body or even getting a trans built but I really don't want to spend that kind of money so I'm considering buying yet another solenoid and transducer and seeing if it may help. Problem is that I don't want to spend that money either... LOL

What I'm unsure of is what exactly is the part in the trans that makes the 1-2 and 2-3 upshift or downshift happen? Is it a clutchpack or the band clamping down on the drum?
Old 06-02-2011 | 05:44 AM
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I am goin to do a band adjustment and see if that works. I am just nerveous. I did that on my old dodge and used ft/lbs by accident and tried to take off. Needless to say it was an expensive mistake. Does anyone know the part number or what year the gm gov. upgrade is for so if I need the part I know what to get
Old 06-02-2011 | 08:55 AM
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The 1-2 shift is fornt band apply. The 2-3 shift is front band release direct clutch apply. The timing on this one needs to be really close or your into either a bind up condition where the truck noses over or cutaway conditon where the rpms flare and it feels like its between gears.

What makes the shift happen is when the gov pressure over rides the TV pressure. The shifts themselves are all hydraulic with the gov pressure being set electronically and on the 05 and newer trucks the TV pressure set the same way. If the TV and gov pressure do not set correctly as speed increases you have problems.

The biggest problem is the front band will NOT take abuse or flaky shifting very long and it wears. THEN you get high rpms on the shift points when you push it and some flaky stuff at lower throttle opening.

Travis and Dodgezilla, you both have a TV cable and adjusting that one way or another may help. Travis, what do you mean rpms go\hold high? Detail when that happens for a better understanding.

The GM solenoids ar enot known for being bad out of the box but who knows these days. The OE Borgs are known for that crap though. The GM solenoid will have a number on it that you cna source, and, it is also adjustable to a certain extent. You may have to play with that to get it right.
Old 06-02-2011 | 10:57 AM
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When I am going down the road it will hold the gear and the rpms will go up to 2700 before it shifts or I blip the throttle. This is with the tranny warmed up. There are times when I am in a turn with a steady throttle and the rpms will shoot up like the tranny kicked into N and the drop back down into normal range.
Old 06-02-2011 | 11:12 AM
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That sounds like oyur TC is unlocking and locking. The 2700 is about right for fluid coulping.
Old 06-02-2011 | 11:31 AM
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It used to not do that in the turns if that is the case. That is with a steady throttle. When the tc locks/unlocks it is 200rpm difference when this happens it is like 500-1000 difference. It has made me red line a few times
Old 06-02-2011 | 11:38 AM
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Your correct, its not normal. Why it is happening if is the TC unlocking is the question. Your fluid is full at hot idle in neutral? You don't have a deep pan with an extension?

Check you trans control harness plug and make sure it is tight, clean, and dry.
Old 06-02-2011 | 11:49 AM
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No deep pan I thought it might be a fluid issue it was low so I added more to it. I just don't have the truck today. I am waiting for the wife to report back to see if she noticed a difference. I thought it was weird being that low since I just recently droped the pan to put in the new gov. and added 4qts. on refill. Also what about the starting in second issue. Some times I have to put it into N and then into 1st to get it to go into 1st
Old 06-02-2011 | 12:20 PM
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Sticking valve in the VB possibly, or, again the trans control harness or plug not making good connection, wet with fluid, or a scuffed wire on the harness. Could be any\all of the above or just a bad solenoid\transducer.

Do you have any codes? Not neccessarily a CEL but possibly a P1700 stored code for a TCM issue?
Old 06-02-2011 | 09:29 PM
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No codes show when I toggle the key


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