Slipping between first and second again.

History:
Transgo shift kit long ago.
Replaced the governor pressure solenoid with the upgrade kit. I don't think I replaced the sensor unless it came with the kit. (could this be an issue?)
Adjusted front band after finding most of it in the pan because I lived with the stutter shift for like 40,000 miles. Front adjusting bolt is a few threads from flush.

SO.... Do I get a pressure sensor and put that in, clean the pan and change fluid, tighten the front band for the last time and attend church more regularly?

Or do I try to replace the front band? (Someone has done that while the trans was in the truck.... )

And if I finally have to bite the bullet, is everyone in agreement that the triple disk TC is the way to go? And what about stall speed? Do I really need a billet input / output? Is output just for 4 wheel drive?

 

Yep, keep up the Hail Mary's.

How many miles since fluid change? solenoid change?



The only way to replace it without removal is use the same crappy flex band and grind tangs off the new band. When you see how flimsy the band is and then want to grind on it, well, not a good idea.


Unless you are racing or constantly towing at or above GCVWR, you don't need a triple disk. They will ultimately be more problems than they are worth.

Again, unless your racing and towing heavy the billet input\output is nice to have but not neccessary. Output shaft only if you want to do boosted launches all the time. Input for peace of mind.

 

Thanks no_6,

About 20k on this fluid, maybe less. Solenoid then too. Tightened the band at that time... Found a lot of band material... You commented then it is just a matter of time. LOL. I believe you!

I did the REC upgrade but didn't do the pressure sensor. Is that something I could try now?

 

Yeah, the transducer is as big a POS as the solenoid. Problem is there is nothing better. If its never been changed for $50 its worth a shot.

 

if your 1/2 way handy with tools you can rebuild your tranny your self, I spent less than 500$ that included a rebuild kit, a rebuild manual, and 80$ for a tranny shop to rebuild the OD unit(huge spring in there thats a bomb, if not released properly)

once the start wrecking tranny hard parts the rebuild gets more expensive
took longer to remove the tranny than it did to overhaul it

 

Maybe I will try to rebuild my own... I have build a few engines that actually ran... Heck I put the shift kit in, with Transgo's instructions! As long as I don't buy a Transgo tranny rebuild kit I should be fine....

I just ordered a new pressure sensor (funny how they are all around $65. Even the $47 one because they charge $17 shipping!!! Got one from Cascade Transmission for $53....

Then I ordered a slip in band ( I can hear no_6 screaming now.... ) and an aluminum servo thingy. The band is only $21 and the new servo is under $5, so what do I have to lose as long as I'm in there? I can tell you the new band looks better than that chintsy stock one!!!

So I guess I'll look for a trans rebuilding manual. It would be sweet if I could tackle that over a weekend.... Buy really good parts and get it done for under $4,000 maybe....

 

My parts list for a trans that will handle 600HP dependably and tow heavy was $3600. Just a few of the items in that list were a new tripple disc converter, billet input and a custom valve body.

 

I say rebuild it before it leaves you on the side of the road......been there and it is no fun, Especially, if you have a trailer full of horses.

 

Lots of bucks for the rebuild. In my case, billet flexplate, billet triple disc, billet input and intermediate shaft, stock output. New clutches, bands, valve body, solenoids, sensors, etc. by the time the dust settled came in right around $6800 including time to do the build.

Ouch....

But, if it was built properly in the first place, it might have lasted more than 145,000km.

Funny thing, no weird shifting, no burned fluid, no symptoms of impending doom. Drove to town one day, parked at a restaurant, and came out to a pool of tranny fluid under the truck. This from a truck that was never abused, or even used to its full potential.

Now, back to the triple disc. Good to have, but not required. A big single would be just fine in a daily driver/tow rig. Less hassles for sure. That said, I got a smokin deal on the triple, so I went with it.

Reason for the billet/billet/stock shaft configuration. If you're going to break something, make it something easy to get at and change out.

Upgraded valve body came about as a way to have SOLID shifts, that are reasonably smooth. This truck hauls horses a lot, and I didn't want to shake the snot out of them when it shifts. There is no hunting, shaking, shudder, or slip. Positive shifts, with no hard banging between gears.

Good luck with yours

 

There are some big numbers being bounced around here... I put a Transgo shift kit in my VB, should I still get a new one? Do they wear out over time?

Okay, triple vs single.... Which is more reliable? Isn't a triple just better but more expensive? I sometimes pull 15k, and with the truck itself loaded, I can be at 26K total. That's a lot of mass to get moving up a hill from a stop.

Another question: I have heard the CPU or something limits the amount of torque going to the trans at 567 or something. How do I get around that limit? Is my Sjr enough to bypass that?

 

Shift kit won't wear out, trans will. You don't need a different shift kit if you have one.

Triple vs a single really comes down to use. If your not racing or towing heavy all the time a single disk works great without the problems of the triple disk.

The TQ management and shift defuelis what controls inut TQ. That gets partially removed by Smarty in the TQ Managment selection. The shift defuel you don't want to mess with and stays active.

 

Thanks no_6,
What are the problems with the triple? I see Goerend puts his triple in, and if I do my own, I'd probably get his kit, but his kit seems lacking parts (it's only $1000) and then the TC would be $1300, so his master rebuild kit with TC totals at $2300. What am I missing?
Maybe I should list his kit for easy reference....

All factory (Borg Warner or Raybestos) friction and steel plates
All gaskets-seals-sealing rings
Raybestos pro series front band
Raybestos oem triple wrap rear band
Billet 3.8 front band apply lever-strut-anchor
Sonnax billet 4 ring accumulator piston
Filter
Sonnax front servo cover with o-ring
Sonnax rear servo piston
OEM rear clutch Bellville spring
OEM front clutch wave snap ring
Overdrive direct wave snap ring
ATSG Book
Complete Overdrive Bearing Kit
Complete bushing kit
Overdrive sun gear 15 degree
Thrust washer Kit
Flex Plate Stiffner
All for $999.00

If my VB is good, what would you add to Dave's kit for a real good trans? New input shaft?

 

If you go with a triple disk then you need a billet input. The 3-4 shift lock strategy is biggest problem with the triple disks. Without some modifications it makes TH almost unusable at times. The extra weight spinning means tolerances have to be tighter and balance good. With the TransGo kit I am not sure you can tweak the 3-4 accumulator and pressures enough to keep from bang shifting into OD. If you take the same $1300 and put it into a single disk IMO its a better deal. I think Daves good single is around $900 but check for sure.

After doing this once, I would opt for a rigid front band and not a flex band. If you have to do slowere speed driving and tow a lot it will just eat the band. Most always at road speed and little slow-n-go driving the flex band is adequate.

I would also go for the full billet front servo instead of just the cover. The OE piece is not that great and can have sealing issues with higher pressures.

Not sure about the 3.8 band apply lever. Stock is a 4.2 just not billet. I am not sure a 3.8 billet is better than the OE.

The other thing I would opt for is Raybestos Blue clutches in the direct clutch pack. The HE's are all right but that pack takes the brunt of the abuse like the front band. I would opt for upgrades there rather than the TC.

 

THAT is some fantastic information there No_6!!

That's the kind of stuff I need to be told, where a guy knows what to use and not give me a choice... I do tow, so that advice is gold. And the single TC is good enough then, even with a GVW of 26K.

Even if I have a shop build it, I can tell then exactly what I want in it. I really like the upgraded clutches too. I sure don't want to skimp if I don't have to!

 

The 26k towing is heavy, but, if that is not day in and day out a good single is adequate.

If I knew for sure how to setup for a triple and make sure we didn't get the bang shifting I would have a differnet opinion. I am just not convinced the setup required to get a triple to work with these newer trucks with TH is as good as the single setup.

As with everything, opinions are based experiences to date and current knowledge. All subject to change when the data changes.