I'm at my wits end with this thing, and decided to come here for some suggestions or ideas what my problem is, so here goes. After 3 or 4 miles of startup, and running on Interstate highway, I lose power to the point I have to downshift on the level to keep moving.

I changed the turbo, this one is suppose to make low 40s. I welded up caps and checked my charge air cooler (intercooler). It held 30 psi for 4 hours. I changed the iat sensor in the fresh air intake pipe. I changed the map sensor in the manifold. The truck is not throwing any codes.

I have 5'' straight pipe from the exhaust brake to the tailpipe. I have a Smarty programmer S-06 that I have tried from stock to level 7, and no change. I have a 3 guage pillar that has pyrometer, boost guage, and fuel pressure. I changed the fuel filter.

With an infra red non contact thermometer, I checked all 6 exhaust ports for temperature, and all read almost identical. This should eliminate the injectors. My fuel pressure is 15 psi on cold startup, and drops to 12 psi when I get on it. Rarely does it go below 12, but never under 11 psi at WOT.

My TPS is very smooth from 0 to 100% throttle. My map reading is 29.5''. When it dies it really slacks off. At 2000 rpm, flat to the floor, I'm at 12 psi fuel pressure, 8-9 psi boost, and exhaust temps of 1000-1050 degrees. Today when I took it for a drive I struggled to get 40 mph hammered to the floor. The most boost I have seen is 21 psi, probably half of what it should/could be.

Also installed 2 brand new 1050 CCA batteries in the last week. I checked all fuses and breakers. Like the opening line says, I'm at my wits end and need someone smarter than I on this problem. I would soon love to pull my 10,000# toy hauler camper, but in its present condition, it can hardly pull itself down the road. Any ideas or suggestions are sure welcome........

 

Hey there LowLars love the name

What turbo did you put on the truck?

Any smoke when you drive and if so what color?

I moved your thread here hoping you would get more answers as a lot of the guys don't read the Emergency threads.

 

Maybe try changing FCA and the HPRV on the rail

 

I agree....sounds like the relief valve may have let go.

Sent from my XT1080 using IB AutoGroup

 

Just throwing parts at the issue can get expensive.

I agree with the idea that it is the HPRV (first) the FCA (second), the cascade valve (third) and even the cp3 (fourth)

The best way to narrow these down is to install a rail pressure gauge and then check for correct pressure as you drive.

One thing you can do for right now to eliminate (or confirm) the HPRV is to remove it and cap the rail and drive the truck and see what happens.

 

Thanks for moving my thread here for more replies, I appreciate it.........

I put a speedhouse turbo on which is for towing, I needed something for the low end pulling my toy hauler trailer.

Now, to answer everyones thoughts. I did change the turbo, a new iat sensor, map sensor, fca valve, and cov valve. I took the banjo bolt out and plugged it with a 1/8'' pipe tap. None of this helped. I do have a fuel pressure guage, boost guage, pyrometer, and rail pressure guage, all dual face readouts, both analog and digital.

The truck would idle smoothly. With the code reader hooked up, the idle was steady between 756 to 758 with little fluctuation. The truck idled at 5500 to 5800 rail pressure. When I kicked it down, it went the other way, sometimes as low as 2400 psi. After many test drives, the truck would shutoff at stop signs and red lights. It became very frustrating.

I have read where guys were talking about their injector lines breaking and the injector tubes loosening up. After scouring many forums I found out the injector tube nuts should be torqued at 37 ft. lbs.

Several years ago, while traveling, I had injectors put in out on the road, at the Dodge Garage in Barstow, California. Since I had 2 dead ones, I didn't have much choice being nearly 3,000 from home. That bill was $5200!! The truck ran fine for a couple of years, then slowly over time, started losing power, a little bit at a time. It wasn't till I started towing with it that I realized how much. Today I confirmed to myself the mechanic at the Dodge garage didn't have the right tools to do the job, and I will explain in some detail......

Update!!! My power is back. Finally I can take advantage of my Smart 06 POD. At 2000 rpms, i'm doing 22,000 psi rail pressure and 42 psi boost.

This morning I headed out to the garage to tackle my last attempt to fix this before I order new injectors and fuel pump. Taking off the steel fuel lines is a real PITA. The nuts were rusted to the lines on the injector tubes. I used a home made mixture I found on the internet and soaked them for a couple of hours. The mixture is a 50/50 mix of automatic trans fluid, and Acetone. Shake it up real well, and put it in an oil can and soak whatever to dissolve rust. I finally got all the lines off and cleaned them up on the wire wheel. Now for the fix, the injector tube nuts were finger tight, not torqued at 37 foot pounds. I had no fuel leakage, nor was I making oil in the crankcase. I had no reason to believe they were loose. I welded up some special handy wrenches and torqued all 6 of them, then reinstalled the lines. I took the pipe plug out of the blow off valve, and returned it back to stock. The truck fired right up after cycling the key 3 times and allowing fuel to enter the pump. When it started it sounded way different than before. The idle was smoother, the rail pressure was alot more steady. I kicked it down and the rail pressure flew up to 18,000 psi. Before that I couldn't get over 8800 at 2300 rpms. I took it out for a test drive and couldn't believe the power I have now. I have the Smarty set on Catcher#3, out of 9 settings. In a blink of an eye, the boost goes from 1 psi to 35 psi and still climbing with rpms.

Overall this job was a real PITA as I looked at all the cuts and bruises on my hands, but well worth it. I can only imagine how much my bill would have been at another *********** at $125 per hour. I don't think the boy in Barstow had the right tools to torque these nuts. I can't imagine going from 37 ft. lbs to zero, finger tight.

Thanks to all that answered my post!!!!!

 

Glad you got it. If fuel leaks between the injectors and cross over tubes the excess fuel goes through the head to the back. A line is hooked up at the back of the head that takes that leaked fuel back to the tank. Sounds like you got it fixed. Whoever installed the injectors must have forgotten to tighten the cross over tubes to torque specs.

 

You never know what your paying for when you don't do it yourself. Those Dodge Garage rates are way beyond my wallet. I don't wanna pay for that dead salesman that can't sell a car or truck......

 

I tackled another problem today, one I had on the back burner for a while. I took my instrument cluster out because the guages were so dark. It was a daytime driver.....lol.....I had 7 out of 10 bulbs burned out

 

Good Job Larry! Glad to hear you got her running right