Haas96

2004 Cummins Turbo Diesel. Daily driver with no mods.

Truck cranks but will not start. Turn key to on position 3 times and does not give any codes. Has not given any problems at all. Have not done any work on truck recently. Drove perfect. Came home and parked. Went out 2 hours later and it cranks fine but will not start. This has not happened before and no previous issues at all and weather has been perfect.

I now noticed a tick that sounds like a turn signal under the hood. It is coming from electrical connector at the FCA on injection pump and the relay behind battery on firewall on driver side that may be the in tank pump relay. The in tank pump is also cycling on and off at the same time as the ticks. Could this relay cause this if bad?

I have checked fuses. I undid the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter housing and fuel is pumping out. I also undid one line going to injector and fuel is coming out. I have also unconnected the FCA, tried to start and no change. I even removed the FPRV (fuel pressure relief valve) on rail and no fuel is coming out which means there is not enough pressure to start. I have not checked the fuel pressure though. Should it be a high pressure spray that comes out of the injector line? Its a flow.

Tach does not move while starting and fuel gauge is at E even though it has 1/2 tank of fuel. Gauges do not sweep. I sprayed ether in intake and it started for a couple seconds and was real rough and died. Of course I read after ether is bad on these engines. BOOM!

Any ideas? Not sure what is causing the in tank pump to tick on and off and cause the other two ticks as this is obviously related to why it wont start and leads me to believe is a power and not fuel issue. Ive done a lot of research and have many ideas but have not found anything relating to the pump cycling on and off and the ticking.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

BigIron70

Do you have a gray ignition key or black? If gray key try disconnecting battery ground connections on both batteries for 10 minutes or so. This will reset the module for vehicle theft. That's if your key is gray only. Black key doesn't have theft module. Also check the ground connection on the drivers side battery, make sure it is clean and tight. Small black wire is ground from ECM and if loose or corroded will not allow the ECM to work properly.

Perform instrument cluster test by:
Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.
Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine.
Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
Write down any codes after test.

Haas96

Thanks for the response BigIron. I have a black key. I tried unhooking the batteries previously just in case anything needed reset. Nothing.

I have tried checking the codes by cycling key to on position 3 times and it doesnt give any codes. So I tried your suggestion and all my gauges will sweep slowly when I do that and it gives me "AA 00" and "00 00". I turn key to on again and no sweep.

I dont find anything for the 00 but for AA I get "AA PCM messages not received. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information."

BigIron70

You could have a bad instrument cluster
Diagnostic for code AA
Clear code and if it resets replace cluster
Without a scanner it will be difficult to diag. You need to monitor cam and crank signal, fuel pressure and if any codes are setting. You checked all the fuses?. Pins 20, 30 and 40 are 12 volt power to ECM. Pins 21, 49, 50 are grounds

Haas96

Great info there. Is there a way to clear the code without a scanner? Can I disconnect both batteries?

Haas96

Odd. I disconnected batteries. Reconnected and made sure was tight just in case. Checked C codes and now it gives AA and AC. AC is ABS not received. I didnt get that before.

Could the bad cluster cause the no start and the in tank pump to cycle on and the clicking at the relay and FCA? Ill check the ECM pins tomorrow in the light but I may have to break down and take it in to get scanned. The only time ive ever had to take a vehicle in was for new tranny. Ive always been able to eventually diagnose and fix myself. Oh well. Its better to diagnose then to start throwing parts at it with this many variables.

roughstock

Check the grounds from drivers side battery. Also is there a fusible links off the drivers side battery? I remember unplugging a connector that created this condition when I was trouble shooting an electrical issue