2004 HO CTD Dodge 2500 Automatic 4x4 w/ 78,000 miles.

Motor starts easy even at 4 degrees here in Kansas City MO and idles fine. Once motor warms up and approaches 180 degrees it losses power ( will still cruise down the road just noticable power loss ) and dies at intersections when I let off throttle and hit the brakes. It has a slight diesel leak that I am having trouble finding, seems to be under filter area. It also seems to have more black smoke than expected with no chip or programmer.

Has new turbo and just changed the fuel filter.

Any ideas where to start looking? I have had it at 2 dealerships and a diesel shop and no answers. Still looking for cause of leak.

Oh and no codes.

 

Interesting. Suggest for starters that you physically remove the air filter and check it. Don't just think that if it was recently changed that it is still good.

Have the symptoms been there from the time you changed the turbo, or were they there before you changed the turbo? What made you change the turbo? When you changed the turbo, did you temporarily seal the intake with a rag and then forget to remove it?

 

Could be many things, hard to say what without codes. Have you had it scanned or did you try the key trick??

 

Turbo was installed when I purchased it which was over a year ago. Still no codes. As soon as it warms up to operating temp it losses power. Replaced fuel filter and air filter a couple days ago and did not help.

 

i would first look at the stock lift pump. these are notorious for failing. most of the time they will just flat out die, but there is a chance yours is just failing.
My second choice would be injectors, but they usually throw a code if they fail

 

Add a FP gauge to make sure LP is working correctly all the time.

Warming up and loosing power then dying could be several things. FCA is one item. The other could be in the injector area. Transfer tubes may be loose and need retorqing. Injectors may be starting to have issues. Time for some more in depth testing and searching.

 

Is there somewhere on this site where I can find the correct installation procedures for injectors as far as torque etc...

Thanks

 

Where would be the best place to buy a fp gauge and where is the best location to tie in to fuel line?

Thank You

 

if your getting more black smoke then your injectors are dumping more fuel then they are supposed to. more then likely they are gonna go out. they dont always throw a code when the go, mine never did on 2 of my trucks

 

Now it is showing codes:
0251
0480
2509

Where do I start?

 

P0251 CP3 Pump Regulator Control
P0480 Fan 1 Control Circuit
P2509 Powerdown Data Lost Error

The first is an indicator the FCA is TU.

The second is indicating the fan circuit is not readig corrrectly.

The last looks like you disconnected the batteries, have a bad battery, or bad battery connections.

 

0251 CP3 Pump Regulator Control
0480 Fan 1 Control Circuit
2509 Powerdown Data Lost Error

Based upon your codes I would start with the batteries. Codes are just all over the place. Make sure that they are good (load test them). Then once known they're good, check the cables for no corrosion. You'll need to check both set of cables & both ends of the cables to make are good. Also check the wiring harness near the alternator and down & around that area. I remember reading on DTR that some had an issue with this cable getting fraid and ground out causing issues for your year.

Then I would disconnect the both battery cable & let the truck sit for about 1/2hr to clear all code.

Take it for a drive to see if it happens again and what codes come up.

You can also check to see if the rail pressure releaf valve is bad by removing the banjo bolt on the top rail & starting the truck up. If you see fuel coming out of it that will also cause issues.

Good luck & let us know what you find.

 

Had a the same problem my injectors were shot and returning too much fuel due to a stuck PRV.

 

Is this what you need?

(7) Tightening Sequence:
(a) Install fuel injector holdown clamp (mounting
flange) bolts. Do a preliminary tightening
of these bolts to 5 N·m (44 in. lbs.) torque.
This preliminary tightening insures the fuel
injector is seated and centered.
(b) After tightening, relieve bolt torque, but
leave both bolts threaded in place.
(c) Install high-pressure connector and retaining
nut. Do a preliminary tightening to 15 N·m (11 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(d) Alternately tighten injector holdown bolts to
10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) torque.
(e) Do a final tightening of the high-pressure
connector and retaining nut. Tighten to 50 N·m (37
ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Connect injector solenoid wires and nuts to top
of injectors (Fig. 18). Tighten connector nuts to 1.25
N·m (11 in. lbs.) torque. Be very careful not to
overtighten these nuts as damage to fuel injector
will occur.
(9) Install exhaust rocker arm assembly. Refer to
Engine.
(10) Set exhaust valve lash. Refer to Engine.
(11) Install high pressure fuel line. Refer to Torque
Specifications. Be sure to use a secondary
back-up wrench on the connector nut (fitting)
while torquing fuel line fitting. Refer to Fuel Line
Installation for additional information.
(12) Install valve cover. Refer to Engine.
(13) Install breather assembly.
(14) Connect negative battery cables to both batteries

 

Yes Thank You however what about the transfer tubes also?