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2003 Dodge Ram Won't Start!

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Old 04-23-2010 | 08:42 PM
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Thumbs down 2003 Dodge Ram Won't Start!

Hello, new guy here! I need help (that's how I ended up here) My truck won't start! I've done some searching on this site over the past few days but I still can't figure this out. Let me start off by saying that up until a few weeks ago I knew zip, zilch, nadda about diesels and so far everything I've learned has been from this site and my Dodge Service Manual (so mainly from this site)
Here's a little history. I bought the truck recently as is where is, (it had been sitting not running for a full year)The previous owner had some problems with it stalling and loosing power intermittently. He had it to the dealer a few times for service but since the last time it quit and refused to start again they replaced the FCA then since that didn't do it they recommended a new wiring harness. Fearing the dealer didn't know what was wrong and was gonna just throw expensive parts at it, he decided to tow it home till he got tired of looking at it, then sold it to me.
Here are the codes I read out with my scan tool.
P0088
Fuel Rail / System
Pressure too high

P2509
ECM/PCM Power Input
Signal Intermittent

P0251
Injection Pump fuel
Metering control A
Metering control A
(cam/rotor/injector)

Based on the code P2509 I think this is why the dealer wanted to replace the wiring harness. They probably replaced the FCA based on the other 2 codes.
This is what I did.
I tested the batteries (week) and found a few electrical connections corroded (did I mention I'm in Ontario where they salt the heck out of the roads here)I cleaned the connections up and put in 2 brand new batteries, cleared the codes. Still no start.
I cracked a high pressure fuel line (before I read about this beeing a bad idea) no fuel at all! I decided to put 10 galons of fuel in the tank to make sure it had fuel even though the gauge showed just below 1/2 tank. I couldn't hear the electric lift pump at all. This led me to my biggest find, a badly corroded connector at the fuel lift pump and sending unit (LP is in the tank on this one) I replaced the connector, now I can hear the LP run when the key is turned on!
I followed the procedure to prime the fuel system by bumping the starter and letting the pump run, I cracked the 'water in fuel' drain valve and got lots of fuel comming out. I then closed it and cranked it over a few times, then suddenly hurray! It started!
I shut it down then restarted again a few times everything was good. The next day I try to start it.....nothin! I can't get it to start!
Right away I suspect it's fuel delivery again even though I can here the pump running and I get fuel from the drain when I crack the valve. I tapped a 1/8 NPT in the banjo bolt on the inlet of the CP3 and hooked up a pressure gauge. I've got 10psi going to it. Now I'm out of ideas I don't know what to do next. Please help! I've come to you guys for suggestions.
Great site by the way!
Root
Old 04-23-2010 | 11:02 PM
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could you have run your truck so long without the lift pump that you smoked your cp3? it has happened before. also your starter could be smoked from trying to start it so much. you could have water in the fuel id change the fuel filter and drain the tank. take off your air filter hose and make sure there is nothing jammed in it like a rats nest look for any lose connections. also on the passenger side frame rail there is a pink wire that some times doesnt have wiring loom on it and it rubs through and it arcs out on the frame just look for any bare wires while under the truck. hope this helps
Old 04-24-2010 | 10:48 AM
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Now that you fixed the lift pump wiring clear the codes and see what new ones come up.
Old 04-24-2010 | 11:52 AM
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When you did start it, how long did you let it run? If you did not run it long the batteries will be low. Charge them to full and try again.

Also check the oil to make sure the injectors did not bleed down and fill the engine with diesel. Did it smoke at all when you did run it?
Old 04-25-2010 | 12:46 AM
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I let it run for about 25 minutes, didnt notice any smoke. I cleared codes, no new ones come up.
I left the battery charger on overnight and tried again.
Changed filter, checked connections, checked intake, checked oil, all looks good.
I ran out of time so I'll see what else I can do tomorrow.
Is there an easier way than dropping the tank to drain the fuel to replace it?
P
Old 04-26-2010 | 01:12 PM
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So after some more reading, I'm thinking bad injector? Is there a way to build one of those high pressure fuel tube cap adaptors so I can cap off one injector at a time? Can I buy something from a hydraulics suplier? I just dont want to wait to order one.
Old 04-26-2010 | 09:40 PM
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Hey, I sprayed with ether (quick start) and it fired right up!
Gave me an engine code P0193 "Fuel Rail Pressure sensor Circuit High Input"
Anybody got any ideas what I can narrow it down to now?
Old 04-26-2010 | 10:19 PM
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That is probably your rail pressure sensor, or an injector.

Firing with ether is dangerous with our motors. WD 40 (old style) works just as good.

Probably an injector.
Old 04-26-2010 | 11:01 PM
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I tried WD 40 first but nothin, how do you know if it's old style? The stuff I used had the flammable warning symbol thingy on the can. This can's been kickin around for about a year, when did the change the formula?
Is there another alternative? Maybe a little spray bottle of diesel?
Any sure way to determine whether or not if it's injector or sensor without just replacing stuff?
I'm thinking injector cause it seems to run fine once it starts, but no white smoke at start up like I've read about?
Old 04-26-2010 | 11:16 PM
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That sounds like the right WD40... ?

I can't tell you how to figure out the sensor, but I know you have to pull the injectors.

It sounds like an injector, man. Try cleaning that rail pressure sensor really good...
Old 04-26-2010 | 11:28 PM
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yeah, it does sound like an injector to me too.
I'll clean up the sensor connection and put some dielectric grease on it but I have serious doubts that's gonna fix it.
I've read about a tool (adapter) you can buy from Miller to cap one injector feed off at a time to find the bad one. I don't know where to get one around here so I'll have to order one on line but I'm getting impatient already (that was my impatience that led me to using the ether).
Does anyone know another trick to figure what injector may be at fault?
Old 04-26-2010 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Root
Does anyone know another trick to figure what injector may be at fault?
Start a new thread, post that as the title... or some version...
Old 04-26-2010 | 11:41 PM
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Thanks Madhat, I'll do that!
It feels good to get closer to the issue, just a small matter of time before it's fixed I hope!
Old 04-26-2010 | 11:47 PM
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If you do determine that it is injectors, I'd go with F1 Diesel, I have some of Don M's injectors, and they run awesome.
Old 10-27-2010 | 06:23 AM
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won't start

My 2003 2500, manual wouldn't start and this was the problem. Blocked off each tube to the injectors at the fuel rail individualy untill the truck started. Tube from the side of the engine to the injectors was loose. Replaced the rubber o-ring on the tube and retorqued the tube and reinstalled the rail tube. Started right up and didn't cost a boat load of money. Was told by a cummins mechanic that sometimes cummins has an issue about bolts and such being torqued to specs. Hope this helps with someone in the future. ddp2003


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