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2003 CRD - Questions

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Old 05-31-2006 | 01:39 AM
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LuckyRugger's Avatar
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From: Michigan
2003 CRD - Questions

I'm looking at a 2003 3/4 ton 4WD CRD, with 44,000 miles on it, and auto tranny. I haven't been following the new CRD very closely and I've spent a few hours looking through postings and haven't seen too much. What should I look for when I go check out this truck? Are there any specific problems area's with this model (i.e. tranny, fuel pump, injector, cold start, etc...)? This will be my first diesel truck, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I won't be hauling too much, too often, but when I do haul it will be heavy, 33' baja, bobcat, car hauler, or camper. I won't drive this truck everyday, probably only 50% of the time, and my work commute is only 6 miles, how bad is this for a diesel?

I'm also looking at purchasing a Jetta TDI as well, but this will be for my wife because she has a 62 mile one-way commute to work.

Thanks in advance...
Old 05-31-2006 | 09:28 AM
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Blast Chamber's Avatar
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I have an '03 3/4 ton and really like it. On the 4wd models you want to check for any shudder when driving at highway speeds, and check all of the U-joints and ball joints for wear as many weren't properly greased from the factory. Also, check the axle fluid level as some were low from the factory.

All early '03 Rams had the 47RE automatic transmission. All late '03 High Output Rams (305/555) had the 48RE, which is much improved. Late '03 Standard Output Rams (235/460 or 250/460) could have either the 47RE or 48RE depending on the build date. Anything built after March, 2003 will probably be a 48RE, and for pulling heavy loads that is what you'd want in an automatic. You might also want to look for 4.10 gears, but the 3.73's will give you the best fuel mileage when empty. Anti-spin is also a nice feature to have. The glovebox tag will give you this info.

The OEM fuel lift pumps on the back of the fuel filter housing have been having some problems, so I'd plan on replacing that with an aftermarket (FASS, Walbro, RASP, etc). If it fails on the road Dodge will replace it under warranty with an in-tank lift pump, which many guys don't want due to lower pressure and the difficulty in replacing while on trips.

If you will be towing heavy with bumper pull trailers, you may want to upgrade the factory receiver as it is only rated for 350# of tongue weight. You can get a Putnam class 5 hitch for around $250 here...... http://trailersnhitches.com/putnamcart/25211.html

Short trips are bad for the Cummins since it never gets to fully warm up, so I'd expect your fuel mileage to take a hit. Excessive idling can lead to carbon buildup on the injectors, but with occasional heavy towing you will burn that off. Running a fuel additive is always a good idea for the extra lubrication.

That's all I can think of for now. There are other TSB's and things to watch for, but those are some to start with.
Old 06-01-2006 | 06:33 PM
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Jeff in TD's Avatar
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Every week or so make sure to get the engine fully warm, and I think you will be fine.

Early 03's have a stamped steel alternator mount, that is prone to crack. I think there is a photo in my gallery.

You might also look for the updated power steering hose. Actually, it is the hose that supplies pressure from the PS pump to the hydro booster, and mid-way through they added a weight/constriction kind of thing mid hose to cure a 2000 RPM buzz/vibration at the wheel or pedals.

There was a TSB on the early 03's that the proper fill level is below the fill plug in the rear end. Later trucks have "fill level" with a line, stamped below the fill plug.

Some also had issues with door seal leaks.

Other than that, the normal sort of things you check on a used vehicle: Runs smoothly w/o unusual ticks or smoke, service records, signs of collision repair...
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