16k - ok to use synthetic?
#16
Originally posted by tony
Mobile 1 is a true synthetic, mostly PAO (Group IV). RP, Castrol, Valvoline and several others use a Group III basestock. In fact, Mobil sued Castrol over the use of the term synthetic because Mobil contested that Group III oil is not a true synthetic. In Europe, a Group III cannot be labeled synthetic. Mobil lost the case, and in the US Group III oils can be sold as a synthetic.
There are very fewer actual supplies of oil basestocks. Companies like Royal Purple, Castrol and Valvoline simply blend another company’s basestock. I'm nearly 100% confident that Amsoil uses Mobil basestock.
Mobile 1 is a true synthetic, mostly PAO (Group IV). RP, Castrol, Valvoline and several others use a Group III basestock. In fact, Mobil sued Castrol over the use of the term synthetic because Mobil contested that Group III oil is not a true synthetic. In Europe, a Group III cannot be labeled synthetic. Mobil lost the case, and in the US Group III oils can be sold as a synthetic.
There are very fewer actual supplies of oil basestocks. Companies like Royal Purple, Castrol and Valvoline simply blend another company’s basestock. I'm nearly 100% confident that Amsoil uses Mobil basestock.
Mobil 1 is not a true PAO and AMSOIL would never think about using such a inferior oil
#17
Originally posted by spudman
you never want to use synthetic in an engine that has already been broken in on mineral oils.use it from the start or very early in its life or don't use it at all .Use it like a truck and break in with synthetic is not a problem but once it's broken in you don't want to disturib any of the deposits that exsist that help seal the rings at 16k you can still do it but there is very little economic benefit if any to it and little mechanically if your pulling hard and for the long haul probably but otherwise its a waste of money
you never want to use synthetic in an engine that has already been broken in on mineral oils.use it from the start or very early in its life or don't use it at all .Use it like a truck and break in with synthetic is not a problem but once it's broken in you don't want to disturib any of the deposits that exsist that help seal the rings at 16k you can still do it but there is very little economic benefit if any to it and little mechanically if your pulling hard and for the long haul probably but otherwise its a waste of money
I put synthetic in my old 89 diesel at 85000 miles and ran the same oil for 4 1/2 years. At 60000 miles on the oil, I drained the oil and put in new even though the synthetic samples were still coming back with good TBN and other numbers. The truck had well over 250000 miles the last time I talked to the guy that bought it and was still running strong. The side covers were leaking with dino oil and everyone said it would leak worse if I put in synthetic. NOT, they sealed up and never leaked again.
I just put it in my 99 with 5000 miles on the newly rebuilt engine cranking well over 400 hp. I know a fellow at work that put it in his 94 the first oil change and he is nearing 200000 now and has never laid a wrench on it.
#18
Originally posted by SuperGewl
Tony you had better get your facts right because you are most deffinatley WRONG.
Mobil 1 is not a true PAO and AMSOIL would never think about using such a inferior oil
Tony you had better get your facts right because you are most deffinatley WRONG.
Mobil 1 is not a true PAO and AMSOIL would never think about using such a inferior oil
Why don't you call Amsoil and find out for yourself who produces their basestock. I'm pretty sure it is ExxonMobil, but I'm also sure they change supplier on occasion. There are only a few producers of PAO in the US, and I can assure you without a doubt that Amsoil, Valvoline, Castrol, Royal Purple, Torco, Neo and Redline are NOT on the list.
I also work in the Petrochemical industry, and from my experience with the companies who produce PAO, ExxonMobil has some of most stringent engineering and quality control standards.
Mobil 1 is not 100% PAO, but then there is not a single Amsoil product that is 100% PAO. But I do know with absolute certainty, that the primary basestock in Mobil 1 synthetic oil is PAO.
#19
To the original question, you could change to synthetic or not. I would try and pull alittle more but it should be fine. The mobil truck and suv oil is the same as Delvac 1 and is one of the best oils you can put in a diesel like ours (I use Amsoil 15-40).
The advantages of using synthetic in a turbodiesel such as resisting coking of turbocharger bearings as well as suspending particles rather than alowing the particles to settle are benefits that I like.
I also use extended drains with Amsoil but would not recommend it to anyone unless they first researched it and felt comfortable doing it. My current oil is 44k old and just got an analysis back saying all is well.
David
The advantages of using synthetic in a turbodiesel such as resisting coking of turbocharger bearings as well as suspending particles rather than alowing the particles to settle are benefits that I like.
I also use extended drains with Amsoil but would not recommend it to anyone unless they first researched it and felt comfortable doing it. My current oil is 44k old and just got an analysis back saying all is well.
David
#20
SuperGewel said "Personnally I would NOT use MOBIL 1 because it is a dino based oil and NOT a true PAO."
Check bobistheoilguy for some straight scoop on Mobil 1. A recent question to the gasoline engine users at the site was 'what oil would you use if cost wasn't a factor' and Delvac 1/Mobil 1 Truck & SUV seems to have been the most common answer. Needless to say it's also popular with diesel owners.
I started using a synthetic blend at 15k miles as 3 gallons of 100% synthetic would be too expensive at the factory oil change intervals, and I wanted to pretty much abide by the Cummins recommendation to avoid synthtics until 20k. I assumed that they meant 100% and assumed that a blend would be ok. I seem to recall that Cummins and Dodge have stated that you can't use oil analysis or synthetics to extend the oil change intervals. I use 3 to 4 qts of Mobil 1 Truck & SUV with Delvac 1300, and have found that the synthetic blend seems to help keep the engine running quieter, with less ticks and clacks and such.
I also use a blend of 'regular' Mobil 10w-30 and Mobil 1 T&S 5W-40 in both Taurus sedans. I'd use Delvac 10W-30 for the blend if I could find any, which I think would be one of the best oils that you could use in a gas engine for cleaning as well protection.
Check bobistheoilguy for some straight scoop on Mobil 1. A recent question to the gasoline engine users at the site was 'what oil would you use if cost wasn't a factor' and Delvac 1/Mobil 1 Truck & SUV seems to have been the most common answer. Needless to say it's also popular with diesel owners.
I started using a synthetic blend at 15k miles as 3 gallons of 100% synthetic would be too expensive at the factory oil change intervals, and I wanted to pretty much abide by the Cummins recommendation to avoid synthtics until 20k. I assumed that they meant 100% and assumed that a blend would be ok. I seem to recall that Cummins and Dodge have stated that you can't use oil analysis or synthetics to extend the oil change intervals. I use 3 to 4 qts of Mobil 1 Truck & SUV with Delvac 1300, and have found that the synthetic blend seems to help keep the engine running quieter, with less ticks and clacks and such.
I also use a blend of 'regular' Mobil 10w-30 and Mobil 1 T&S 5W-40 in both Taurus sedans. I'd use Delvac 10W-30 for the blend if I could find any, which I think would be one of the best oils that you could use in a gas engine for cleaning as well protection.
#21
I think some of you guys get a little too serious about the oil thing. IMO the fact of the matter is that which ever oil you use will have little to do with how long the engine will last as long as you keep it changed. I have seen several Cummins engines at my old work place going strong at 250k-300k+ miles. This was using "Coastal" oil at about 20k mile intervals. It doesn't get much cheaper than that. I just started using Rotella synt. at around 8k miles. It's fairly cheap and easy to find. I havn't noticed any problems at all since the switch. I know that even if I were to use Coastal oil, this engine will last much longer than I will, and I will certainly wear the rest of the truck out before I will the engine.
Its the owners choice plain and simple so there really is no right or wrong, I hate to see people get into an arguement over motor oil.
Its the owners choice plain and simple so there really is no right or wrong, I hate to see people get into an arguement over motor oil.
#22
Synthetics are again, are far superior to organic oil. The question is, do we really need the extra protection? Some of us don't. Those who do are the folks who pull heavy loads on a regular basis, put a lot of miles on their truck, or are heavily bombed. There are some who put 50 - 100K on their truck every year. These are the folks who can wear out an engine before the rest of the truck. For the rest of us, if we follow the ower's manuals guidelines, we will see at least 350 to 400K before an overhaul is needed using regular organic based oil. On the other hand, if you are someone who fails to let the turbo cool down and/or exceeds the normal oil change interval, then synthetic oil might be a better choice for longer turbo life.
I'm not so sure blending one's own oil is really worth the time and effort, but we all have different hobbies. Year's ago, it was told it's best to run the same grade and brand of oil due to the different additive packages involved. I'm guessing the same applies today.
Mobil 1 and Delvac 1 are group IV PAO. Mobil and Delvac 1300 are not. They are organic oils. The key is the 1 = group IV PAO Synthetic.
For what it is worth, I'm going to use Shell Rotella T 5w/40
API CI-4 synthetic once I get to 30K. It's around 12.00/gal and I can safely use the 15,000 maximum oil change interval per the owner's manual, so it's cost effective & I get the extra heat/cold protection. I'm guessing its a group III PAO, but I don't really need the IV for $20.00 more per oil change since I don't drive a lot of miles with heavy loads, nor is my truck bombed...yet.
I'm not so sure blending one's own oil is really worth the time and effort, but we all have different hobbies. Year's ago, it was told it's best to run the same grade and brand of oil due to the different additive packages involved. I'm guessing the same applies today.
Mobil 1 and Delvac 1 are group IV PAO. Mobil and Delvac 1300 are not. They are organic oils. The key is the 1 = group IV PAO Synthetic.
For what it is worth, I'm going to use Shell Rotella T 5w/40
API CI-4 synthetic once I get to 30K. It's around 12.00/gal and I can safely use the 15,000 maximum oil change interval per the owner's manual, so it's cost effective & I get the extra heat/cold protection. I'm guessing its a group III PAO, but I don't really need the IV for $20.00 more per oil change since I don't drive a lot of miles with heavy loads, nor is my truck bombed...yet.
#24
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Amsoil is the Amway of Motor oil. Not that it is a bad oil, it is just funny how it taunts itself so far superior to others. I cannot understand how someone wants to jeopodize their engine by going so far on an soemthing as inexpensive as an oil change. I run synthetics (Cummins Prem Blue Extreme) which like Mobil 1 and Amsoil is a PAO and chnage mine every 6k. By the way Amsoil buys their basestocks and additives from major oil companies, has these same companies mix them and then test quantities of finished products in their own lab. This I know is overkill but why would I want to run an oil 30k, get an oil analyasis every 5k, change the filter every 5k. An oil change isn't that expensive, Rotella or regular Prem Blue, Delvac and others are great oils too. I just change the f------ oil. I am not worried about giving my truck a Pap Smear on the oil. Amsoil has multilevelmarketing distribution so they brainwash their AMWAY or AMSOIl reps into believing their oil has a majic formula. I sell Amsoil in my garage. There are a few diehards that like it so I don'y argue but it is comical how zealous the AMWAY AMSOIL reps are.
#26
Amsoil is great stuff (one of the few group IV PAO's). It's some of the best oil you can buy. Their oil and air filters are excellent as well. Their products are not inexpensive. They use a multilevel marketing plan because they started in 1972. They were the first company to market synthetics for automotive use. No one in their right mind would pay that much money for a quart of oil back then, plus the major oil companies had a lock on the retail distribution. Amsoil now sells through some retail outlets, but they continue to maintain the multilevel plan because that is what made them successful. Synthetics have only gained market share in recent years because new cars are so expensive and people are keeping them longer. My wife has a '94 4.0L Jeep Cherokee that we bought brand new. I have used their oil, filters, and oil change intervals for 10 years and 145K miles. It does not use any oil between filter changes (usually about 7 or 8k at 6mo).
You can talk negitive about Amsoil all you want, but it doesn't change the fact that they sell high quality products. I use Amsoil in my gears, transfercase, and to clean the air. I use the Fleetguard Stratapore oil filter as it's as good, maybe better, a little less expensive and easier to get in my area. I'm not sure if I will use Amsoil 15w/40 Marine/Diesel at 30k or switch to Shell Rotella T Synth 5W/40. Probably the latter as it's about 1/2 the price and easier to get in my area. Is it as good, I don't think so. Is Amsoil diesel motor oil worth 2x, not in my application.
Here's what it boils down to...I can continue to run dino oil and change it every 7500 miles based on the owner's manual. Or, I can run Shell Rotella T Synth 5x/40 & a Stratapore for 15k. The cost is actually less in the long haul, plus I get extra protection and less hassel (1 less oil change mess). "So just change the F------- oil," isn't a very impressive statement. It actually pays to look into it a little deeper than that. If you growing board with this exchange of information, perhaps you should not participate.
You can talk negitive about Amsoil all you want, but it doesn't change the fact that they sell high quality products. I use Amsoil in my gears, transfercase, and to clean the air. I use the Fleetguard Stratapore oil filter as it's as good, maybe better, a little less expensive and easier to get in my area. I'm not sure if I will use Amsoil 15w/40 Marine/Diesel at 30k or switch to Shell Rotella T Synth 5W/40. Probably the latter as it's about 1/2 the price and easier to get in my area. Is it as good, I don't think so. Is Amsoil diesel motor oil worth 2x, not in my application.
Here's what it boils down to...I can continue to run dino oil and change it every 7500 miles based on the owner's manual. Or, I can run Shell Rotella T Synth 5x/40 & a Stratapore for 15k. The cost is actually less in the long haul, plus I get extra protection and less hassel (1 less oil change mess). "So just change the F------- oil," isn't a very impressive statement. It actually pays to look into it a little deeper than that. If you growing board with this exchange of information, perhaps you should not participate.
#27
Changed many a engine over to syn.at 100k plus with nothing but smiles.I would never break a engine in on synth.Fixing to change over to Amsoil 15w40 at 15k on mine.There have been a few post over time that have owned SEVERAL Dodge/Cummins that changed to A msoil or what not syns.at 3k! and drove then 300k with no ill affects of any sort.
#28
This is from Mobil 1's web site (myths & facts section):
One of the myths that persists about Mobil 1 is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design these high-performance cars, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ can be used in an engine from the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.
I believe this is true with our CTDs as well. If you read the owners manual, all it talks about is keeping the speed under 56mph for the first 500 miles when towing. This is to break in the gear set in the rear diff. It says there is not break-in procedure for the engine...just don't tow until it is within operating temp, which can take a while This is for the life of the engine as I understand it.
One of the myths that persists about Mobil 1 is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design these high-performance cars, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ can be used in an engine from the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.
I believe this is true with our CTDs as well. If you read the owners manual, all it talks about is keeping the speed under 56mph for the first 500 miles when towing. This is to break in the gear set in the rear diff. It says there is not break-in procedure for the engine...just don't tow until it is within operating temp, which can take a while This is for the life of the engine as I understand it.
#29
Originally posted by sloppy
Amsoil is the Amway of Motor oil. Not that it is a bad oil, it is just funny how it taunts itself so far superior to others. I cannot understand how someone wants to jeopodize their engine by going so far on an soemthing as inexpensive as an oil change. I run synthetics (Cummins Prem Blue Extreme) which like Mobil 1 and Amsoil is a PAO and chnage mine every 6k. By the way Amsoil buys their basestocks and additives from major oil companies, has these same companies mix them and then test quantities of finished products in their own lab. This I know is overkill but why would I want to run an oil 30k, get an oil analyasis every 5k, change the filter every 5k. An oil change isn't that expensive, Rotella or regular Prem Blue, Delvac and others are great oils too. I just change the f------ oil. I am not worried about giving my truck a Pap Smear on the oil. Amsoil has multilevelmarketing distribution so they brainwash their AMWAY or AMSOIl reps into believing their oil has a majic formula. I sell Amsoil in my garage. There are a few diehards that like it so I don'y argue but it is comical how zealous the AMWAY AMSOIL reps are.
Amsoil is the Amway of Motor oil. Not that it is a bad oil, it is just funny how it taunts itself so far superior to others. I cannot understand how someone wants to jeopodize their engine by going so far on an soemthing as inexpensive as an oil change. I run synthetics (Cummins Prem Blue Extreme) which like Mobil 1 and Amsoil is a PAO and chnage mine every 6k. By the way Amsoil buys their basestocks and additives from major oil companies, has these same companies mix them and then test quantities of finished products in their own lab. This I know is overkill but why would I want to run an oil 30k, get an oil analyasis every 5k, change the filter every 5k. An oil change isn't that expensive, Rotella or regular Prem Blue, Delvac and others are great oils too. I just change the f------ oil. I am not worried about giving my truck a Pap Smear on the oil. Amsoil has multilevelmarketing distribution so they brainwash their AMWAY or AMSOIl reps into believing their oil has a majic formula. I sell Amsoil in my garage. There are a few diehards that like it so I don'y argue but it is comical how zealous the AMWAY AMSOIL reps are.