04 Exhaust Manifold removal....
#1
04 Exhaust Manifold removal....
I need to remove my Exhaust Manifold on my 04 Cummins (I slipped off a stool and broke a tap off in it when I was installing my pyro... arghhhh!!!)
So, I removed all the bolts holding the manifold to the block, removed the 4 nuts holding the manifold to the turbo at the flange...
Now, there looks to be one bolt left that is behind the output flange of the manifold, and it supports the bracket for the heater hose into the cab... and I CAN'T GET THE STUPID bracket off...
And I can't see back there... and it looks to have this stupid tin keeper on it that is sandwiched between the bracket and is covering the bolt... I think, because I can't see back there...
Anyone give me ANY HELP in how to get this crap off...
ARGHHHHH!!!!
Thanks.
Tim
So, I removed all the bolts holding the manifold to the block, removed the 4 nuts holding the manifold to the turbo at the flange...
Now, there looks to be one bolt left that is behind the output flange of the manifold, and it supports the bracket for the heater hose into the cab... and I CAN'T GET THE STUPID bracket off...
And I can't see back there... and it looks to have this stupid tin keeper on it that is sandwiched between the bracket and is covering the bolt... I think, because I can't see back there...
Anyone give me ANY HELP in how to get this crap off...
ARGHHHHH!!!!
Thanks.
Tim
#2
Boy….tell me about it. That bracket is a serious pain in the butt. It is a bolt with a stud on the end, if that makes sense. Bolt goes through the manifold, bracket goes over the stud that is protruding out, then a nut to hold the bracket on. Same bolt that is holding the heat shield on. I ended up getting a small crowbar behind the bracket to bend it out enough to get it over the stud. I think I spent about 2 hours messing with it the first time.
Another option is to just cut the bracket off with a Dremel. The bracket just keeps the heater hose from vibrating. Most of the twin kits eliminate the bracket and the heater hose is just fine without it. If I had to do it again, I would just cut it myself.
There are extractors for removing broken taps. Would have been much easier than removing the manifold, but since your one bolt away……
Another option is to just cut the bracket off with a Dremel. The bracket just keeps the heater hose from vibrating. Most of the twin kits eliminate the bracket and the heater hose is just fine without it. If I had to do it again, I would just cut it myself.
There are extractors for removing broken taps. Would have been much easier than removing the manifold, but since your one bolt away……
#4
I happen to have an 05 engine sitting in my shop out of a truck. If someone will tell me how to post an image, I'll post pictures of that side of the engine... beware that I may ask some silly questions about Cummins engines someday in return...
I just looked at my engine and all I see are the manifold bolts. The heater tube is held on by one of the manifold bolts and then is spliced with a rubber hose under the exhaust port of cylinder #3. I'm 20 feet from the engine right now and I just took pictures of it.
" I ended up getting a small crowbar behind the bracket to bend it out enough to get it over the stud. I think I spent about 2 hours messing with it the first time."
I think if you split the tube under cylinder #3 it will just come apart and get out of the way.
I uploaded images to my gallery. They are pending approval right now. I am going out for a bit but I'll check back if you need more.
I just looked at my engine and all I see are the manifold bolts. The heater tube is held on by one of the manifold bolts and then is spliced with a rubber hose under the exhaust port of cylinder #3. I'm 20 feet from the engine right now and I just took pictures of it.
" I ended up getting a small crowbar behind the bracket to bend it out enough to get it over the stud. I think I spent about 2 hours messing with it the first time."
I think if you split the tube under cylinder #3 it will just come apart and get out of the way.
I uploaded images to my gallery. They are pending approval right now. I am going out for a bit but I'll check back if you need more.
#5
Originally posted by Superduty
I happen to have an 05 engine sitting in my shop out of a truck. If someone will tell me how to post an image, I'll post pictures of that side of the engine... beware that I may ask some silly questions about Cummins engines someday in return...
I just looked at my engine and all I see are the manifold bolts. The heater tube is held on by one of the manifold bolts and then is spliced with a rubber hose under the exhaust port of cylinder #3. I'm 20 feet from the engine right now and I just took pictures of it.
" I ended up getting a small crowbar behind the bracket to bend it out enough to get it over the stud. I think I spent about 2 hours messing with it the first time."
I think if you split the tube under cylinder #3 it will just come apart and get out of the way.
I uploaded images to my gallery. They are pending approval right now. I am going out for a bit but I'll check back if you need more.
I happen to have an 05 engine sitting in my shop out of a truck. If someone will tell me how to post an image, I'll post pictures of that side of the engine... beware that I may ask some silly questions about Cummins engines someday in return...
I just looked at my engine and all I see are the manifold bolts. The heater tube is held on by one of the manifold bolts and then is spliced with a rubber hose under the exhaust port of cylinder #3. I'm 20 feet from the engine right now and I just took pictures of it.
" I ended up getting a small crowbar behind the bracket to bend it out enough to get it over the stud. I think I spent about 2 hours messing with it the first time."
I think if you split the tube under cylinder #3 it will just come apart and get out of the way.
I uploaded images to my gallery. They are pending approval right now. I am going out for a bit but I'll check back if you need more.
There outer nut keeps the bracket, then there's the bracket, and then the inner keeper. Behind the black bracket and keeper is another nut. (or more likely the stud with a nutted end)
The problem is getting that bracket off and out of the way to remove the keeper.
All of this mess is nicely hidden and inaccesable when the engine is in the truck.
The following users liked this post:
LawOG (06-07-2022)
#6
The heater tube bracket comes off easily. Remove the nut and separate the tube via the splice under cylinder #3. See my pictures for a shot of the rubber connector on the splice. It should allow you to move the bracket far enough back to work on the stud unobstructed.
If you think this is tight/bad, you should work on a Ford Powerstroke. I think the worst is connecting and disconnecting the V clamps on the turbo so that you can fix the leaking turbo pedestal... Did I mention the rearmost valve cover bolt on the driver's side ? Or maybe the rear HP oil or fuel rail plugs. I'm not sure you can get at those without pulling the engine.
Let me know if you need more pictures.
Edit: I just removed that stud to see what all the fuss was about. I'm posting pictures now. You should be able to get the bracket over the stud and then rotate it down, out of the way quite easily.
Now what is the torque to tighten the stud to when I put it back in ?
Did I mention that this was on my BRAND NEW engine ?
If you think this is tight/bad, you should work on a Ford Powerstroke. I think the worst is connecting and disconnecting the V clamps on the turbo so that you can fix the leaking turbo pedestal... Did I mention the rearmost valve cover bolt on the driver's side ? Or maybe the rear HP oil or fuel rail plugs. I'm not sure you can get at those without pulling the engine.
Let me know if you need more pictures.
Edit: I just removed that stud to see what all the fuss was about. I'm posting pictures now. You should be able to get the bracket over the stud and then rotate it down, out of the way quite easily.
Now what is the torque to tighten the stud to when I put it back in ?
Did I mention that this was on my BRAND NEW engine ?
#7
Originally posted by Superduty
The heater tube bracket comes off easily. Remove the nut and separate the tube via the splice under cylinder #3. See my pictures for a shot of the rubber connector on the splice. It should allow you to move the bracket far enough back to work on the stud unobstructed.
If you think this is tight/bad, you should work on a Ford Powerstroke. I think the worst is connecting and disconnecting the V clamps on the turbo so that you can fix the leaking turbo pedestal... Did I mention the rearmost valve cover bolt on the driver's side ? Or maybe the rear HP oil or fuel rail plugs. I'm not sure you can get at those without pulling the engine.
Let me know if you need more pictures.
Edit: I just removed that stud to see what all the fuss was about. I'm posting pictures now. You should be able to get the bracket over the stud and then rotate it down, out of the way quite easily.
Now what is the torque to tighten the stud to when I put it back in ?
Did I mention that this was on my BRAND NEW engine ?
The heater tube bracket comes off easily. Remove the nut and separate the tube via the splice under cylinder #3. See my pictures for a shot of the rubber connector on the splice. It should allow you to move the bracket far enough back to work on the stud unobstructed.
If you think this is tight/bad, you should work on a Ford Powerstroke. I think the worst is connecting and disconnecting the V clamps on the turbo so that you can fix the leaking turbo pedestal... Did I mention the rearmost valve cover bolt on the driver's side ? Or maybe the rear HP oil or fuel rail plugs. I'm not sure you can get at those without pulling the engine.
Let me know if you need more pictures.
Edit: I just removed that stud to see what all the fuss was about. I'm posting pictures now. You should be able to get the bracket over the stud and then rotate it down, out of the way quite easily.
Now what is the torque to tighten the stud to when I put it back in ?
Did I mention that this was on my BRAND NEW engine ?
It looks like the 04's are different. I was able to get my Camera in and snap a couple shots. There is a tube off the back of this bracket going out the back of the engine. It looks like I will have to take it off as well (spilling coolent as I go ... Without removing this tube, I can't get the bracket off the stud.
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#9
Ok, with a variaty of screwdrivers, pliars, grunting and getting bit by mosquitos... I got this off...
It's not that it's hard, it's just a pita hanging off the fender and having no room to move...
I've fixed it for going back on, by milling out the bottom of the bracket where the bolt goes through so it just slips on instead of the bolt having the bolt go through the bracket. Plus i'm tossing the tin keepers...
Once it was out, it was about 2 min to get the tap out... so all that work for a 2 second screw up...
It's not that it's hard, it's just a pita hanging off the fender and having no room to move...
I've fixed it for going back on, by milling out the bottom of the bracket where the bolt goes through so it just slips on instead of the bolt having the bolt go through the bracket. Plus i'm tossing the tin keepers...
Once it was out, it was about 2 min to get the tap out... so all that work for a 2 second screw up...
#12
Originally posted by wolf359
Once it was out, it was about 2 min to get the tap out... so all that work for a 2 second screw up...
Once it was out, it was about 2 min to get the tap out... so all that work for a 2 second screw up...
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