03 5.9L HO 172k miles, edge ez since 20000 miles, stock lp and filter system
my dad bought truck new, i bought from him at 130k
he had fuel filter changed twice, i had it changed once, sounds like a very costly lesson in ignorance, neither of us ever heard that we needed to change filter every 5-10k miles... oh well
took truck to family mechanic and he had a cummins rep double check, but both diagnose as bad injectors. he's saying the cheapest injectors are roughly $450, should i have him send my injectors to f1 for a rebuild? if i have to come up with enough $$ to replace, what is the general consensus on larger injectors?
if i go with larger injectors, will i need a different fuel pump? will larger injectors cause my egts to be a problem?
which is the best aftermarket filtration systems?
this is not my dd, so i have time to do it right, just want to make sure its done right the first time...

 

Common issue, do a search on here and you will get loads of information.
You will have no issues getting away with Flux 1 injectors. Call one of his dealers and they can give you a price.

 

Second on calling him. Turn-around time may be high.

 

So are the flux 1 injectors the ones everybody talks about bein the f1 injectors? What about the mach 1.6? Which would be better in my case?

 

Mach's are for 2nd gens. Flux are for 3rd gens.

Get the Flux 1's.

 

I couldnt afford the down time, i went with stock Bosch remans.
I think they were 350$ each.
If I had the time and money, i woulda prob gone with F1

 

What hp are the stock injectors?
What hp are the flux 1's? Or are the tips different? If different, which hp tips would work with my setup?

 

several things, first you actually prolonged the life of the injectors by not changing the filter. the filter has many different size holes in the media. the larger holes has less restriction to flow therefor more fuel flow through the larger openings, as they start to fill up the fuel is filtered through smaller holes. the filter filters it's best at the end of its life on our large engines they come with a warning not to overservice the fuel or air. the cp3 will work between minus 5 psi and plus 20 psi. it does not need fuel for lube and cooling like the vp44. use a gauge and change the filter when it drops to near zero on a hard pull. i think by now your lift pump would have been moved to the tank. read the following, i have one truck with the factory installed stock filter and i bet it will still be there at 1,000,000 miles.
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 if you think you must have a drain on the separator use 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.

the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed as far as the injectors get ddp 50 hp if you do go flux call them and see wich are 50 hp they give the best mpg. you should junk the edge and get the smarty jr and set on default economy. this really helps the egt's and mpg. consider a he351cw upgrde.

 

silly question, but what are you referring to by the he351cw upgrade?

 

The later model 3rd gen trucks had the he351 turbo on them. A little bigger, better flow, and I believe they are variable veined but I could be wrong on that part....I'm a little delirious right now from complete lack of sleep for 2 days .