03 Injector install....any step by step info like the 12V/2nd Gen 24v?
03-18-2004, 01:15 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,534
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03 Injector install....any step by step info like the 12V/2nd Gen 24v?
Howdy all! Well I had my fill of 12V and 2nd Gen 24V injectors and now we are having more requests for the 3rd Gen Injectors. Is there any info on the web on a step by step like I have found for the other 2? I love this site with all the info and helpful hints. Saved my rear a few already! I did hear that the injector install was a little more involved than previous motors. Any hints or hyperlinks would be appreciated! Thanks!
Dan
Dan
03-20-2004, 07:19 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are our instructions for our 80 rear wheel hp common rail injectors.
1. Disconnect both negative battery cables.
2. Remove intake plenum on drivers side, first loosen upper hose clamp and bring the nut to the end of the threads, then remove the bolts that mount the plenum to the intake manifold, twist the plenum, remove and set aside. Remove the rear lifting braket.
3. Remove valve cover, locate and remove 2 solinoid wires on each injector, make a note of color sequence front to back, i.e. yellow red, brown red, etc.
4. disconnect 3 main wire connections just outside of valve cover spacer, remove 6 center bolts and remove valve cover spacer.
5. Locate fuel injection lines where they attatch to the fuel rail, loosen and back the nuts off all the way. 6. Locate the bolts that mount the lines to the intake manifold and remove, unscrew the 15/16 nuts that hold the injector lines into the head, and remove lines and set aside. CAUTION NEVER BEND THE LINES.
7. Remove exhaust rockers and set aside, Be careful not to pull up pushrods out of lifter.
8. Remove 2, 6mm bolts from each injector retainer and set retainer and bolts aside.
9. Gently pry each injector straight up and out of the head, MAKE SURE EACH INJECTOR HAS A COPPER WASHER ON IT! If it does not, look in the head for it, and remove it. The new injectors have new copper washers on them.
10. Use compressed air to blow out injector holes in head.
11. Apply a little oil to the O rings of the injectors and apply a little grease to the copper washers so they won’t fall off.
12. Install the injectors in the head and orient them so the fuel inlet is facing the drivers side toward the line.
13. Install the injector retainers and bolts, make sure they are about even, Torque to 44 in. lb. and back of to just loose, YOU WILL TORQUE THEM IN STEP 12.
14. Install each injector line back in the head, and thread the lines in the head, thread each nut on to fuel rail snug but not tight.
15. Torque each 15/16 nut to 11 ft. lbs, you will go back and torque them again in step 16.
16. Now go to the injector retainer straps and torque to 89 in. lbs.
17. Torque the 15/16 nuts to 37 ft. lbs.
18. Torque each line 22 ft. lbs. at the fuel rail.
19. Install the exhaust rockers, and torque to 22 ft. lb.
20. Install valve cover spacer and connect solinoid wires to injectors, Torque to 11 in. lbs. checking your diagram for color code.
21. Install valve cover and connect all wires removed in beginning.
22. Install the intake plenum, torque to 22ft. lbs. then tighten the hose clamp.
23. Start the engine and let idle till smooth, check for leaks. Road test vehicle.
1. Disconnect both negative battery cables.
2. Remove intake plenum on drivers side, first loosen upper hose clamp and bring the nut to the end of the threads, then remove the bolts that mount the plenum to the intake manifold, twist the plenum, remove and set aside. Remove the rear lifting braket.
3. Remove valve cover, locate and remove 2 solinoid wires on each injector, make a note of color sequence front to back, i.e. yellow red, brown red, etc.
4. disconnect 3 main wire connections just outside of valve cover spacer, remove 6 center bolts and remove valve cover spacer.
5. Locate fuel injection lines where they attatch to the fuel rail, loosen and back the nuts off all the way. 6. Locate the bolts that mount the lines to the intake manifold and remove, unscrew the 15/16 nuts that hold the injector lines into the head, and remove lines and set aside. CAUTION NEVER BEND THE LINES.
7. Remove exhaust rockers and set aside, Be careful not to pull up pushrods out of lifter.
8. Remove 2, 6mm bolts from each injector retainer and set retainer and bolts aside.
9. Gently pry each injector straight up and out of the head, MAKE SURE EACH INJECTOR HAS A COPPER WASHER ON IT! If it does not, look in the head for it, and remove it. The new injectors have new copper washers on them.
10. Use compressed air to blow out injector holes in head.
11. Apply a little oil to the O rings of the injectors and apply a little grease to the copper washers so they won’t fall off.
12. Install the injectors in the head and orient them so the fuel inlet is facing the drivers side toward the line.
13. Install the injector retainers and bolts, make sure they are about even, Torque to 44 in. lb. and back of to just loose, YOU WILL TORQUE THEM IN STEP 12.
14. Install each injector line back in the head, and thread the lines in the head, thread each nut on to fuel rail snug but not tight.
15. Torque each 15/16 nut to 11 ft. lbs, you will go back and torque them again in step 16.
16. Now go to the injector retainer straps and torque to 89 in. lbs.
17. Torque the 15/16 nuts to 37 ft. lbs.
18. Torque each line 22 ft. lbs. at the fuel rail.
19. Install the exhaust rockers, and torque to 22 ft. lb.
20. Install valve cover spacer and connect solinoid wires to injectors, Torque to 11 in. lbs. checking your diagram for color code.
21. Install valve cover and connect all wires removed in beginning.
22. Install the intake plenum, torque to 22ft. lbs. then tighten the hose clamp.
23. Start the engine and let idle till smooth, check for leaks. Road test vehicle.
03-23-2004, 02:30 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,534
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ill say, but i didnt like how the rocker arm was just torqued. Dont you have to readjust the lash? Or are the new motors self adjusting? Didnt seem to hard at all....guess the best way is just to dive in....and go real slow and ask lots of questions!
Thanks!
Thanks!
03-23-2004, 03:00 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Removing and reinstalling the rocker arm has no affect on the adjustment because it is a pedestal mount rocker.
You are welcome to do a valve adjustment while your in there but not necessary.
You are welcome to do a valve adjustment while your in there but not necessary.
03-23-2004, 10:55 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Desert Northwest (Pasco WA)
Posts: 507
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I was involved in an injector swap. I think the process would go a bit easier if you removed the lower section of the valve cover, the "girdle" or whatever you call it. Just unplug the 3 injector cables, undo 5 bolts and it's outa there.
Vaughn
Vaughn
Trending Topics
08-04-2006, 02:38 AM
#15
Registered User
Originally Posted by cchanmn
thanks for the detailed how to that will be very handy this weekend!!
Boy, you had to really dig into the archives to find this 2 1/2 year old thread!
Welcome to DTR! There is a wealth of information here.
Administrators.....This thread should probably be a "sticky" though as informative as this post is as it relates to injectors.