Key fob issue? No start...and starts
#1
Key fob issue? No start...and starts
Odd issue here. 2006 2500. Owned for 2 months.
I notice when I insert the key to start it, if I accidentally touch the "lock" button on the FOB, the truck won't start. (odd they put the "lock" button in the exact spot you need to grip the key to turn it...))
Typically, if I remove the key and then UNLOCK the doors, then reinsert the key (carefully) the truck will then START.
Today, I did it again (accidentally locked). I performed the same procedure to unlock, but this time THE TRUCK WON'T START. All the lights, bells come on, but the truck won't start (makes a single CLICK sound).
So, I got my wife's spare key. Tried it. Two or three attemps (same results), then on fourth attempt -- IT STARTED.
Switched keys to try it now with my key -- IT STARTED.
I'm wondering if maybe the battery in my key fob is going bad... or, if the computer/key combo are not talking to each other. ((poorly designed key fob for sure)).
Any thoughts? Others have same issue?
I notice when I insert the key to start it, if I accidentally touch the "lock" button on the FOB, the truck won't start. (odd they put the "lock" button in the exact spot you need to grip the key to turn it...))
Typically, if I remove the key and then UNLOCK the doors, then reinsert the key (carefully) the truck will then START.
Today, I did it again (accidentally locked). I performed the same procedure to unlock, but this time THE TRUCK WON'T START. All the lights, bells come on, but the truck won't start (makes a single CLICK sound).
So, I got my wife's spare key. Tried it. Two or three attemps (same results), then on fourth attempt -- IT STARTED.
Switched keys to try it now with my key -- IT STARTED.
I'm wondering if maybe the battery in my key fob is going bad... or, if the computer/key combo are not talking to each other. ((poorly designed key fob for sure)).
Any thoughts? Others have same issue?
#2
I would get it hooked up to a computer and see if there are any codes present. I know that sometimes the CEL wont come on for some codes. My wife's Durango will have a code when I use the remote start without having another key close to the lock cylinder. The security features on these are a bit over the top imo...
#4
UPDATE (unresolved): have been working long hours so minimal troubleshooting done so far.
1) Codes: None.
2) Late last night I took wife's spare key and mine out to attempt to start. Estimate 3 out of 10 times started successfully (2 times with wife's key, 1 time with mine). Unscientific, but .... After each start, I drove up and down the drive way a few times, then stopped it in place and turned it off. Mostly it did NOT restart immediately.
3) On failed to start attempts, I hear a single "click" coming from the engine compartment--just one click, not a recurring tttiiccckk. Dark and late, so I didn't investigate the source (I suspect starter is making the click sound).
4) Came inside; opened both key fobs. Both our 3volt batteries test generally at 2.9 - 3.0; assume both batteries are fine.
Other background: We have had lotsa rain in S.Texas lately. Possibly the connections on the starter have gotten wet (but no rain in two days, you'd think they'd dry). Plus, I think I said in the original post that the issue has been recurring over the last month, gradually becoming an issue until now it's a full issue.
Also, I did pull a trailer on a 2-day trip last week. I do have a break controller; however, the load really wasn't that heavy (3,000lbs maybe). I've seen some research indicating a possible issue with trailer connections and something called the "TIPM" (total integrated powr module). Not sure if that's an issue, and frankly I'm not smart enough to know how to trouble shoot that. I did read someone's post that talked about bypassing the TIPM with some sort of harness from E-trailers.
I've also read about possibly a key-module fault. Again, not sure where that is, nor how to trouble shoot it.
My plan of action (hopefully when I have time tomorrow):
#1 -- Test the truck batteries. I purchased the truck in early June, and the batteries appear fine. Check the connections (tight?), check fluid levels, test power-voltage.
#2 -- Possibly check the connections on the starter and if possible (visible) the cables connecting. I've read where folks tap the starter with a pipe and that sometimes works (not sure how or why).
#3-- if those don't turn up solutions....I guess I will try to get it started long enough to take it to [dealer?]
Any help is appreciated!
1) Codes: None.
2) Late last night I took wife's spare key and mine out to attempt to start. Estimate 3 out of 10 times started successfully (2 times with wife's key, 1 time with mine). Unscientific, but .... After each start, I drove up and down the drive way a few times, then stopped it in place and turned it off. Mostly it did NOT restart immediately.
3) On failed to start attempts, I hear a single "click" coming from the engine compartment--just one click, not a recurring tttiiccckk. Dark and late, so I didn't investigate the source (I suspect starter is making the click sound).
4) Came inside; opened both key fobs. Both our 3volt batteries test generally at 2.9 - 3.0; assume both batteries are fine.
Other background: We have had lotsa rain in S.Texas lately. Possibly the connections on the starter have gotten wet (but no rain in two days, you'd think they'd dry). Plus, I think I said in the original post that the issue has been recurring over the last month, gradually becoming an issue until now it's a full issue.
Also, I did pull a trailer on a 2-day trip last week. I do have a break controller; however, the load really wasn't that heavy (3,000lbs maybe). I've seen some research indicating a possible issue with trailer connections and something called the "TIPM" (total integrated powr module). Not sure if that's an issue, and frankly I'm not smart enough to know how to trouble shoot that. I did read someone's post that talked about bypassing the TIPM with some sort of harness from E-trailers.
I've also read about possibly a key-module fault. Again, not sure where that is, nor how to trouble shoot it.
My plan of action (hopefully when I have time tomorrow):
#1 -- Test the truck batteries. I purchased the truck in early June, and the batteries appear fine. Check the connections (tight?), check fluid levels, test power-voltage.
#2 -- Possibly check the connections on the starter and if possible (visible) the cables connecting. I've read where folks tap the starter with a pipe and that sometimes works (not sure how or why).
#3-- if those don't turn up solutions....I guess I will try to get it started long enough to take it to [dealer?]
Any help is appreciated!
#5
Its been my experience that any key module fault will show a code, it might not turn on the CEL, but it'll be there. Also check where the BC is mounted to make sure no screws nicked a wire during install. Your sig doesn't state if this is an auto or manual truck. But it sounds to me like you are looking at a bcm issue.
#6
Its been my experience that any key module fault will show a code, it might not turn on the CEL, //// check where the BC is mounted to make sure no screws nicked //// Your sig doesn't state if this is an auto or manual truck. But it sounds to me like you are looking at a bcm issue.
Thanks!
-- Key module: No codes seen with my handheld tool (what's a "CEL" ?)
-- Automatic (not manual)
-- BCM (assume = "brake controller"). BC (brake controller) is mounted near my knee-cap...previous owner installed. I'm going to relocated it lower. No noticeable screw nicks. In fact, I might just go ahead with the modulite replacement (from E-trailer or NAPA). E-trailer also has an inexpensive/good rated BC I may swap out.
Thanks.
#7
Believe I tracked down the problem.
Starter.
Pulled it out....wasn't fun, but I managed.
Opened up; contacts extremely worn. Considered trying to rebuild with a kit, but opted to replace.
Bought remanufactured from NAPA ($135ish).
Just one day, but has started 100% of the time.
Thanks for the suggestions/consults!
Starter.
Pulled it out....wasn't fun, but I managed.
Opened up; contacts extremely worn. Considered trying to rebuild with a kit, but opted to replace.
Bought remanufactured from NAPA ($135ish).
Just one day, but has started 100% of the time.
Thanks for the suggestions/consults!
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#8
...............................
Thanks!
-- Key module: No codes seen with my handheld tool (what's a "CEL" ?)
-- Automatic (not manual)
-- BCM (assume = "brake controller"). BC (brake controller) is mounted near my knee-cap...previous owner installed. I'm going to relocated it lower. No noticeable screw nicks. In fact, I might just go ahead with the modulite replacement (from E-trailer or NAPA). E-trailer also has an inexpensive/good rated BC I may swap out.
Thanks.
Thanks!
-- Key module: No codes seen with my handheld tool (what's a "CEL" ?)
-- Automatic (not manual)
-- BCM (assume = "brake controller"). BC (brake controller) is mounted near my knee-cap...previous owner installed. I'm going to relocated it lower. No noticeable screw nicks. In fact, I might just go ahead with the modulite replacement (from E-trailer or NAPA). E-trailer also has an inexpensive/good rated BC I may swap out.
Thanks.
BCM-Body Control Module
CEL- Check Engine Light
BC- Brake Control
I do warranty inspection work and they like all the little abbreviations in the reports.
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