Gotta drop the tank to repair a busted brake line, and I'll be damned if I can't get the Edit "quick connect" fuel send and return fittings off the nipples. I've dropped the tank a couple of inches to give myself a little room to work but this stupid thing is defeating me. They're the two-tab quick-connect type with the "windows." Didn't see any disconnect tools for these looking on auto parts store websites, but I'm on my phone so easy to miss...

Lifting bed not an option at the moment. Sorry for urgency, need to have truck buttoned back up and operational ASAP. '96 3500 12V

Many many thanks in advance.

 

I use alligator nose vise grips the small ones since I have big hands and can never get the fuel lines off with my fingers. adjust so they donot close completely and just enough to pinch release tabs. pull the line gently usually comes right off. Adjust vise grip so there is just enough pinch to close and lock but not to put force on the line itself.

 

I had tried that and didn't have any luck, I'll give it another go...especially since the 3/8" disconnect tool I just picked up didn't work either, not enough room between the connector casing and the bend in the line to close the tool around the nipple

 

Man, still no luck, the only pair of locking pliers I could find that'd fit in those windows just couldn't get purchase from the right angle without also binding up the casing. I appreciate the suggestion though, thank you. I'll keep at it, maybe tack some "teeth" on to another set of pliers to see if I can get a better angle.

I took some pictures with the macro setting of my phone to see what I was working with, looks like rust and dirt are making my life difficult. I'm getting desperate, any more suggestions are absolutely welcomed

 

That quick connect fitting is a bugger to get undone. Just be patient otherwise you'll be fixing two things instead of one. I had to reach up in there with a couple small screwdrivers pushing down on the tabs and then wiggle. It'll come free as long as you get those tabs released. Remember, you're also pulling against the o-ring that seats the fitting too.

 

NO NO not in the windows the release is outside the window two tabs are what you need to squeeze

 

Ok, thanks...I feel like I've been going about it right but it's just gummed up with rust/dirt, maybe the tabs aren't moving. I should probably get the air compressor on it

Last thing we need is confusion, so I'll post the pics. Looks to me like either a normal diconnect tool should work (if there were enough of a straight line prior to the casing) or pushing the retainer ears (as labeled) inward would release:

From a Haynes manual I forgot I had (but doesn't actually tell you the proper way to disconnect):


Top-down:


Bottom-up:


Top-down (nipples):

 

The dirt and crudd is the problem spray wd40 and blow it all off with shop air watch your eyes where eye protection. We don't see that much corrosion out here on the west coast, never rains here.

 

Looks like your fuel lines out the fuel sending unit are getting pretty rusty.
I have had a set rust out on me, leaving me stranded on the highway, with a loaded trailer in tow.
It was a long cold night sleeping in the truck with the dog…
I would expect to swap that sender out in the near future.

The WD-40 and compressed air should remove some of the crud and give you some room to compress those "ears" into and remove the line.

 

I didnt know rain was the cause for corrosion.....unless you're referring to acid rain. But yeah, they dont use anything other than some gravel around here during the snow/ice season. This year they didnt have to use any though since there wasnt any snow.

 

Pinch the tabs and push in a millimeter or so then pull straight back.

Those lines look like you are gonna need to replace them anyway....

Redlinear can get you what you need at a fair price. Try him first. He's a member on here

 

I take that back, I have seen corrosion here. Trucks that are parked near the ocean always have frame corrosion. Mostly motor homes or trucks with campers. Usually rain will cause corrosion if the water doesn't drain properly from doors or rocker panels from plugged up drains. Ask me how I know, my wife had a rag top.

 

Ok, this is getting ridiculous. Still no go, so on to plan B. Gonna see if I can pull the 4 driver-side bolts from the bed and loosen the 4 passenger side and tilt'er over so I can get top-down on the tank.

Thanks for all the advice folks

Edit: nevermind, just looked closer and the four forward bolts are on the outside of the frame rail while the four rears are on the inside. Can't tilt it to the side with an offset like that, so I guess I'll try lifting the front of the bed up. Gonna have to get creative, all I have is a 15-ton bottle jack with about 6" of travel, some lumber and jack stands. Wish me luck

 

My fuel lines where the easy part. The electrical connector was the female dog. You have to lift the tab and slide the lock out. It was full of fine gravel and wouldn't budge, so I broke the tab off with the lock. RTVed it back on when done.

 

It's always something. I popped the electrical connector off in about 15 seconds, but these fuel lines have held me up for almost 3 days now. And this is all just so I can GET to the thing that actually needs fixing