ib516

I'm starting to develop some surface rust at the front corners of the bed on my truck thanks to the harsh Canadian winters. The area is about 1.5" wide by 2" long, right where the box meets the cab. I have mud flaps up front (and rear), but I think they sail when I'm on the road, and that allows the salt/sand mix to pepper the body at this location. ANyway, the damage is done, and I'm looking for suggestions on how to fix it.

Things I'm considering are:
- Just taking it to a body shop and getting it repaired/painted, anyone know what that would cost?
- Taking it to a truck bed coating place, and getting the rockers and this area done in black truck bed coating. That would look OK as the truck is silver, and the accesories are black. I have no idea on cost here either though.
- Buying a can of truck bed coating in a spray bomb and masking the rockers off and doing it myself. Not keen on this, as I'm no body man, but I am considering it.

Right now, it is just surface rust, I can almost wash it off if I scrub hard enough, but the paint is gone in that area.

Thoughts? Other ideas? Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.

kawi600

I used a phosphoric acid / zinc treatment like 'must for rust' or por-15's 'metal-ready'. It will leave a zinc coating that wont corrode and you can paint over it. Thats the best solution Ive found so far. Even the spots I didnt paint are good after a year.
You can reach the fender arches from the inside where they rot by removing the turn signals and spraying up inside. The doors can be done from inside by removing the door panel. Keep an eye on the front cab mounts and blow them out with compressed air once in awhile. check the floor pans too.. holes develop under the carpet and water gets trapped in there and rots stuff fast.

XLR8R

POR-15 works very well, and is easy to apply. It'll stop the rust, and it's ceramic-hard surface can take plenty of mechanical abuse... topcoat it for UV protection.

greenworks

lots of guys are saying rustbullet is better then POR-15 that is the way I am going this week, there is a distributor in Edmonton so its fairly close for me.

XLR8R

I've never heard of that.

Dr. Evil

Care to share the info?

XLR8R

Rust Bullet makes some rather bold claims on their website (as should be expected), but after reviewing the MSDS, it looks like an awfully good product based on the chemical composition... cyanates, methane & other aromatics, acetates and plenty of aluminum - sounds like a great penetrative, adhesive formulation for an alloy with known sacrificial oxidation characteristics.

I've used POR-15 for decades and it's always performed well - don't get it on your "parts" though!

ScottN

Google found Rust Bullet's page, which had this info:

If it's good stuff... that's pretty convenient. I have to chase some rust on my truck.

Rust Bullet Canada (West)
Certified Tool & Supply Ltd
4515 97 St NW Edmonton, AB T6E 5Y8

Office: 780-434-8711
Fax: 780-437-2761

SIXSLUG

Cabela's has that clear protective film for problem areas in their automotive catalog. It might help to put that on after you repair the damage. It worked good on my last truck's rocker panels. I didn't have any flaps, though.

skargo

POR-15=snake oil.

pete97

So what do you guys think is better? POR-15 or Rust Bullet? Thanks Pete

greenworks

pete from what I have read they are pretty much the same except rustbullet doesn't need a top coat being it will not break down with UV rays like POR-15... there is also a thread somewhere that i believe HOHN posted on with some good info as he has used both and recommends RB

Jason

tx_2500

i wouldnt say that at all. ive known several people (especially in the offroad world) who use it religiously and have had nothing but good thing to say. the prep is a bit intensive but the results ive seen are great.

wouldnt call that snake oil at all

kawi600

I did the POR-15 treatment on the frame and bed supports and the rust hasnt come back. You will need to make sure you encapsulate the whole part, or rust will start on an edge and get under any coating.
The metal-ready alone is worthwhile to try

skargo

You KNOW people, that's the problem, you are offering up hearsay, I am offering up first hand info.
I had the frame rails on my 63 vette done professionally, and it delaminated. I am big in the offroad world myself, I rock crawl, and everyone I've seen use it on their rigs has had the same issues.
So yes indeed it is snake oil.

Maybe leave your opinions out of a subject unless you have personal experience, this "my uncle's cousin's grandmom's podiatrist" crap doesn't cut it.