mattn124

Dropped my fuel tank today (fun!) to get to where I could see a massive brake fluid leak. That long line that runs from front to back is all rusted up and pretty much needs to be replaced entirely.

I also need that little line that runs from whatever the device is at the end of the long line to the load sensing proportioning valve for the rear brakes. Anybody know what this thing is anyway? Should probably get a new one of those as well

Anybody know of somewhere I can buy pre-bent factory replacements? Or if not, got tips for making my own lines? What about different fittings..? What kind of lines or material can I buy that will not rust out in the future?

Thanks for any and all help

scottsjeeprolet

Your gonna need 3/16" brake line and the fittings.
I just went ahead and bought my own flaring tool and do the lines as they break. Yes the one behind the tank has already been replaced. i didn't drop the tank just fished the new line in.

hot rod al

Mine just broke a few hrs ago and need to do the same thing. I dropped the tank to find out I have nothing to splice new line into. So I suppose I'll have to run new line all the way from the proportioning valve. I'd like to know where to get prebent factory replacement lines as well. Ill need to do both brake and fuel lines since those are near disintegration too.

scottsjeeprolet

I'm pretty sure your not gonna find pre bent lines and if so they'll cost a fortune.
Go buy a flaring tool, small bender and lines.
Try to reuse the old fittings. I reused the old fittings. Just be careful and don't round them off.

hot rod al

Ok will do. Thanks!

mattn124

I did some searching on here and found mention of a place called EGR performance. here's the site :

http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm

Anybody ever use them? The one person who posted about them spoke favorably about them. They have pre-bent lines for our trucks, but exact pricing wasn't available on the website.

Looks to be kinda pricy with the "kits" starting at $219.00. But I think that's a complete kit with all the brake lines and fitting for everything on the truck, I dont need to replace everything so maybe I can buy just what I need and be cheaper.

I'm not sure, but I think that when I take my truck in for a safety inspection every other year, if they see a compression fitting or some other type of union on a brake line they can fail me and I won't be able to renew my license plates. Even if that's not the case, I still would much rather have 1 solid piece of metal line without any breaks in it, don't want any chance of the brakes going out at 70 mph pulling 10,000 lbs behind you

BobWatts

Last year the same line on my truck blew just as I was backing my 37' camper into my driveway as I was returning from a camping trip. Then just as I repaired the first line another short line with some funky turns and angles burst.
I have a few other lines that I must replace before I think about towing my camper!

mattn124

Just curious, does anybody know what that thing is at the back end of the long metal brake line that runs behind the fuel tank? I think maybe it's just a couple or adapter of some kind because once this skinny hard line goes through it, the line coming out of it is much thicker in diameter on it's short run to the rear proportioning valve. Furthermore,, can I get a new one?

hot rod al

I think you're talking about the rear brake distribution block that sits on top of the rearend. Mine doesnt look too healthy either.

The old line and fittings came off pretty easy. I bought a 25 ft roll of 3/16 brake line but realized that I need to double flare the ends and my flaring tool doesnt come with the double flare dies.
I also kinda kinked the tube where it comes into the proportioning valve. How much narrowing of the line as a result of kinking can it take before it starts impeding brake operation?

Sorry for hijacking your thread mattn124!

mishkaya

I just went through this the past couple of weekends on my '01
I went with stuff from federal hill http://store.fedhillusa.com/
They will sell you brake line that will not corrode, lend you the fancy flaring tool and also send you a big box of fittings to use. You take the fittings you need and send the rest back along with the flaring tool, and they only charge you for what you used. You can't beat it!

mishkaya

I considered EGR, but I was concerned about the fact that stainless is somewhat brittle, not to mention the fact that I could see UPS destroying those pre-bent lines. I found it much easier to make my own lines with the parts from federal hill. I did however order the soft lines from EGR brakes, I got the nice braided stainless ones. Hopefully my new brake lines will last the rest of the life of the truck...

mattn124

Hot rod al, thanks for the input but I'm not talking about that.

What I'm talking about is mounted on the frame-rail and the long brake-line we've been talking about terminates at it. Then a fatter brake line comes out of it, makes a couple bends and goes into the load sensing proportioning valve (also on frame-rail) this proportioning valve was not on all trucks, i think just the 4x4's with 8800 GVWR ratings or higher.

Then after the proportioning valve, the line continues on to the drums

Thanks for the tip, mishkaya, I'll look into it

hot rod al

Mattn124 I hope you got your truck back on the road agian. I just buttoned mine up earlier this afternoon. Everything went pretty smoothy but flaring the ends of the line was kind of a pain in the butt.

Hodge

Can you produce a photo of it? That might help.

gorms

Doing the double-flares takes a few practice runs, but aren't too hard once you get it figured out with the right tool. I recently made lines everywhere for my 96 Dakota, and it takes patience. Don't focus too much on duplicating the o.e. lines too much, just remember point A and B and it has to be supported in between. I've heard about Nickel-Copper lines from a mechanic friend of mine, says you don't need a bender for most bends and can do it by hand. I haven't personally seen it, but it sounds good, and will not corrode.

FWIW, I've had a standard compression union on my rear line in front of the fuel tank for 3 years with no problem, and no I'm not proud of it!