12ValverDave

Im getting ready to fix the rust by replacing my rocker panels and replacing the doors. The doors bottom seem is rusting and has already been fixed once. So door replacement is pretty much the only option I can see. Should I look into junkyard doors or spend $400 dollars on brand new replacement doors. I have a reg cab, so does any reg cab door between 1994-2002 work on my truck? Are there anymore common rust areas to keep an eye out on?

Dave

wurkenman

For me personally, I would spend the money on new doors. Drill a couple of more drain holes in the bottom of the door and then line the inside of the doors with a good grade of undercoating. This will reduce noise and keep the water and salt etc. from collecting in the bottom of the door and getting into the rolled seam at the bottom.

kawi600

You can save the doors and door skins if youre willing to do some cutting and welding. I welded patches onto the drivers side door and had to patch the sill of the door shell too, but the rust is all gone.
As far as the rockers, if theyre really bad you may want to slice them off and weld on replacements. Mine are pretty bad.. but its mostly the outer part so I cut out the rusty bits on the drivers side and bent sheet metal over a good spot for the right fit.
POR-15's metal ready works good for killing any rust you cant get at. Theres others that etch the metal and leave behind some kind of resin but I cant find those in large quantities.
You can always use fiberglass if youre really fed up with it and know that piece is on its last legs. Its a pain to repair again later.
You can spray that rust treatment into the problem spots via the turn signal openings front and rear, the middle bed stake, the door jamb vents (for the cab corners) and the 3 body plugs under and behind the rockers. If you soak them good the stuff leaves a zinc coating that doesnt rust.
BTW, check your forward cab mounts. spray them out with compressed air and look for rust. Also the flooring under the black sticky stuff and at the back of the cab where theres a support rail under it.
Oh yeah, the drilling holes idea is good. Drill a bunch under the door at the edge where water collects, and on the rockers and cab corners in the lowest parts.

BTW, Where are you located? Want some cheap doors to use while you repair yours? I have a pair that I bought for my repair but theyre collecting dust now.

biododge1

if you want, check out lmctruck.com. fairly good prices in there

patdaly

Also Ebay, good prices on brand new doors.

12ValverDave

is i worth over $1000 for brand new doors? I can get them locally for about $450 a piece. Do you have pictures of your door repair Kawi600? Id like to see what the repair looks like. Id seen the door repair panels and was curious on how well they worked?

RoadDiesel

I bought a right fender & door used in mint condition for $250.00, and is waiting for me to repaint & install asap.I will be replacing the left front door also, because of the rust..its difficult to get rid of the rust holes, unless you really know what your doing & the time/resourse to do it...new aftermarket parts are cheap & I do consider them once in a while... I'am restoring this '94 std cab to a near new condition, because it's got to last me for a long time...10+ years..lol (has a boss v plow on it) ..anyway I also picked up mint power seats to replace the common drivers seat that rags out..

BTW if anyone needs a front seat..tan in color..I know a salvage yard that has a mint...mint set & I think he only wanted about $150.00 for both the left/right and center seat...

patdaly

RoadDiesel, where are you located?

If it isn't too terribly far, I might be able to come pick up that seat.

Drivers side power?

Oh yea, extended cab?

kawi600

I had one door that I did with welding and bodywork and the other that a body shop did with a lower doorskin panel. The doorskin I -think- needs to be positioned and the metal rolled over the seam. Youll need the right adhesives for this, theyre important.
The welded side came out nice and smooth but I screwed up the paint and the clear is lifting a little near the transition between colors. Not major, can brush more clear on since its on a seam.
Im still trying to get the nozzle size on the gun and the activator speed down. Last time I did this I got solvent pop in a few places from either paint globbing (yeah, my 40$ chinese HVLP gun) or the solvent was too fast.
I repaired a big dent at the back that some goober did to me at work (and left no note) and that came out ok.
Im going to be doing the passenger side rocker and cab corner soon. Ill try to get some pics

RoadDiesel

***RoadDiesel, where are you located?

If it isn't too terribly far, I might be able to come pick up that seat.

Drivers side power? ****


Hey Pat daly ..call this number 320-634-3093 tell them its the one in the yard "stored in another truck cab"..light tan in color. It was already removed from the original truck..so I can't tell if it came out of the ext cab..BTW this is in Glenwood MN (Far eastern South Dakota ..cross the state line a bit ) it was near perfect condition...good luck.

Diesel Dave2

How are your lower fenders?I'm working on my truck right now.Replacing fenders and rockers.I was lucky on the doors,no rust.

12ValverDave

Well my lower fenders are fine, the only thing i see rusting on mine is the rocker panels and lower door seams. i bought weld-in replacements and I have both mig and tig welders sitting in my garage waiting for me to start. Im just nervous about cutting the old rockers out. Anyone got any input on this?

Dave

patdaly

Was just rooting through the LMC truck catalog ( see the grille thread ), and they have replacement lower skins and 2 different styles of rocker repair panels now.

Advice? Work carefully, measure twice, cut once and sneak up on the final fittment. Don't try and weld it all at once, and use weld thru primer wherever possible, might save you doing the job over in 20 or so years.

kawi600

Id be nervous too.. its like youre cutting out a pretty hefty chunk of the cab there. I think the replacement rockers you get from jc whitney and the like are the whole part not just the outer cover. I might be wrong though.

12ValverDave

The rockers i got are pretty have gauge metal for bodywork in my opinion. they replace everything to the from front fender back to about 6" from cab corner.