vagabonddreamer

i see there are quite a few threads with respect to this nasty job...for some reason...none of the pics that infidel posted show up...just little boxes with "x" s in them...my rotors on my 97 are COMPLETELY shot...i need to replace...i would like to try the socket against the steering knuckle and turn the wheel trick...i cant find an index of tips/hints/procedures like in the 1st gen forum...are the pics that infidel posted archived somewhere?? thx...vs

infidel

I don't know why the X-box shows up sometimes instead of a picture but if you right click on the box then click show picture the picture will sometimes show up.
Here it is again, hope it doesn't turn into an X-box.

b4wheeler

Am I missing something here??????

To replace the rotors, all you have to do is remove the wheel and remove the two caliper bolts.The rotor will just come off. Very simple. I did both sides in less than an hour....

vagabonddreamer

quit bragging...lol ...pre 99 it is MUCH more complex...i had hoped for something like you describe...so of course...without looking here first...i started the job... ..ALWAYS...talk to Bill or one of the guys here first...YOU my friend...are lucky...lol...

by the way...thx for the pic Bill...you are such a great help on this site...vs

vagabonddreamer

further to the rotor removal post....driver side rotor was fine...almost new....but passenger side was very wierd....one side...the inside face of the rotor...was fine...almost new...the outside however...was worn to NOTHING...it was so worn...it pushed the piston almost out of the caliper...some fluid came out...i managed to finesse it back in...but does that mean my caliper is shot?? do i have to replace or rebuild??? i wonder why the uneven wear...thx...vs

b4wheeler

You can try replacing the slider pins first, but I would do a caliper while you are there. It only takes a few more minutes once you have everything taken apart.
Most likely is the claiper hanging up. I had problems with inner(i think) pads wearing out and I replaced the calipers and all was well.
The calipers are not very expensive. probably $39-49 each. My 1500 calipers were only $29 each. (prices may be inaccurate. Not responsible for your actual cost)

infidel

I would definitely replace the calipers.
Don't bother turning the rotor, get a new one.
Don't know if it's the recommended way to do things but I've replaced just one rotor on several trucks including my own with no problems.

vagabonddreamer

the entire axle came out with the rotor and hub...i take it that shouldnt have happened....what now do you think??? vs

infidel

That should have been avoided by having at least one of the four bolts on the rear side of the rotor threaded in but loose.
Problem with allowing the entire axle to come out is that it's very likely the splines on the axle cut the seal on the way out or will on the way back in and you'll have a leak.
Replacing the seal isn't all that easy.

vagabonddreamer

i did have one of the bolts threaded while i was trying the steering knuckle trick...i guess my problem was a lack of understanding about how the hub assbly would seperate from the axle...and of course...once the entire thing was out...it came right apart ...i put everything back together as far as the axle goes...i understand i probably damaged the seal...sigh...MORE work....i guess i will try and drive it for a bit...and check for the inevitable leaks...and in the meantime..start looking for info on the axle seal.... ...thx for your help....vs

b4wheeler

I apologize for my prior statement.......

I was refering to a Dana 44 and I assumed ( silly me) that the Dana 60 was the same.
Looks like the 60 is a much larger pain in the neck than I imagined. I just did some research and I now know where all the difficulty lies.

Sorry for my comments. I did not mean to brag.....

Now I am not looking forward to having to do brakes on my new truck...

vagabonddreamer

no worries...lmao....we arent mad...we are ENVIOUS.... tell you what i have learned....TOO much input whether good or bad...is better than NO input...even the incorrect input often gets discussion going...and sometimes that alone leads to positive outcomes... vs

infidel

Don't know if you noticed it or not but when the axle is removed oil gets past the seal. This oil gets trapped in the axle tube and can take a long time to drain out, like 500 or more miles. You'll think you have a leak when in fact you don't. Give it time to clear up before you go replacing the seal. You can speed the process by parking on a tilt towards the side that the axle came out on.

Also make sure your differential isn't over full, this is almost certain to cause leaks.
Dana recommended level is 3/4" below the bottom of the fill plug.

Seal replacement instructions> http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm

vagabonddreamer

yes i saw that in a few other threads...so i will drive and monitor...hopefully (although i dont hold out much hope with my luck lately) i wont have to replace the seal...i did put two new calipers in...just thought for peace of mind...it was worth the few bucks...thx for all your help...vs

scottsjeeprolet

Hey John any luck on a truck yet? I'm still lookin PM me.
When i did my rotors, the first one i did the bearing started seperating so i put the axle nut back on and tightened it up, it pressed the bearing back together, no problems in 20k.
So on the other side i left the nut tight until the hub was loose then took the axle nut off. they are not designed very user friendly, it is a bear to get them off.
Use lots of anti seize when you put it back together, and good luck.