Replacing Tracking Bar and Tie Rod....Help!
#1
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Replacing Tracking Bar and Tie Rod....Help!
Tommorow I am going to tackle some front end work that I have been needing. I am replacing the tracking bar and the tie rod at the pitman arm. I may go ahead and replace the tie rods that goe to the steering knuckles too.
Does anyone know the torque specs for the castle nut on the Tracking Bar at the frame and the bolt on the axle?
Is it easier to do all this work on jackstands or on the ground?
I will use a 0-300 ft./lb torque wrench or a breaker bar to loosen the bolts....dont have an air wrench.
Do I need a pickle fork or any special tool?
Any tips would be appreciated! I am certainly a newb to front end work.
Thanks!
Does anyone know the torque specs for the castle nut on the Tracking Bar at the frame and the bolt on the axle?
Is it easier to do all this work on jackstands or on the ground?
I will use a 0-300 ft./lb torque wrench or a breaker bar to loosen the bolts....dont have an air wrench.
Do I need a pickle fork or any special tool?
Any tips would be appreciated! I am certainly a newb to front end work.
Thanks!
#2
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I repaired the track bar on my 2000 and did it with it on the ground. You may find it helpful to support the left side and remove the tire to get to the ball stud end on the frame to remove it. You can use a pickle fork to get the ball stud end removed (but it will damage the boot, no big deal since you're replacing it) or a two jaw puller. On your truck the torque specs are 70 ft/lbs for the ball stud nut and 130 ft/lbs for the track bar bolt. The track bar bolt was originally assembled with blue Loctite, you may want to use it as well on assembly. You also might find it helpful to start the truck and have someone turn the wheel to aid in lining up the track bar on installation, it will move quite a bit. That's all the help I can give you as I don't have any experience with the other work.
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I repaired the track bar on my 2000 and did it with it on the ground. You may find it helpful to support the left side and remove the tire to get to the ball stud end on the frame to remove it. You can use a pickle fork to get the ball stud end removed (but it will damage the boot, no big deal since you're replacing it) or a two jaw puller. On your truck the torque specs are 70 ft/lbs for the ball stud nut and 130 ft/lbs for the track bar bolt. The track bar bolt was originally assembled with blue Loctite, you may want to use it as well on assembly. You also might find it helpful to start the truck and have someone turn the wheel to aid in lining up the track bar on installation, it will move quite a bit. That's all the help I can give you as I don't have any experience with the other work.
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On my 96' I did the tracbar on the ground. Install passenger side first. I did find it helpful during install to have someone rock the steering wheel to align the bolt on the driver's side.
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I just did a 99 3 days ago and i had to pull the right side tie rod end off to get the trac bar bolt out it ws about a 1/2" to long maybe someone used a longer bolt on an earlyer R and R but it would not come out.
I would spend the $ for a tie rod puller it makes a huge diff popping stuff a part and there not to spendy
I would spend the $ for a tie rod puller it makes a huge diff popping stuff a part and there not to spendy
#10
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If youre replacing it after any kind of impact, check the pitman shaft very closely. I damaged my rt side track arms, as a result the shaft twisted so bad it had 1/8 inch cracks around it. Turns out Dodge designed them this way to allow for some steering after an accident. If its bad and you get one from the junker, check it good as well. I checked 3 before I found one that was still good.
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