mx261

ok guys, I had the rear brake lock up problem this winter, it seemed to go away thing warmer weather. But the other day i drove off with my e-brake on ( its weak anyway) and i drove about 30 miles. Almost home and she started shuddering very bad. I stopped and figured out that the brake was on, but now every time I step on the brakes it shudders quite bad. Can the rear drums warp? I guessing thats where the shuddering is coming from. Any ideas would be helpful. Im getting around to redoing the brakes anyway just got too many irons in the fire. ( how come thats always the case? lol )

Mopar1973man

More than likely your going have turn the drums and replace the shoes for sure! But you might have to replace the drums too...

At this point you might think about the Chevy wheel cylinder kit too... (Some chime in with info)

INJECTOR JACK

Check to see if the park brake is releasing the cables maybe stuck sounds like your due for a brake job. I would do the gm wheel cylinder conversion cheap and effective.

tool

My park brake cable was dragging and it caused my shoes on the left side to glaze. Common problem.

Magaliasram

Are the GM wheel Cyl. bigger?

2500CTD

Yip they be 30mm as compared to the Dodge's 27ish mm (depending on the year) My truck has the last version of rear drums, The GM swap on my truck wsa prolly the least noticeable, Since I believe my truck had the biggest stock wheel cylinders, but it was still noticeable. A worthwhile upgrade.

dieselnut55

Are the gm wheel cyl a larger cyl then the one on the 3500 rear?

infidel

Yes, by 3mm which translates into 23% more braking force. They are Napa #4637337, about $12 each and an hour per side to switch. The number will cross over at other auto parts or you can order online by clicking here

WildBill

That's the same part # as for a 97 Dodge 3500

dieselnut55

That's what I was thinking, the 1 ton were the bigger, and this was a 3/4 ton mod. If my memory servies me right this is what the 1st gen people did in the 3/4s. I'll go to NAPA tommrow and check it out, am getting ready to tear into the rear breaks on this and if it is any larger will do it

infidel

I've upgraded dozens with the larger cylinders on 3500s from '93 to '01 all of the owners reported better braking.

fschiola

I agree with Injector Jack. I would check for glazing. Your original problem could be caused by a leaking grease seal. Check to see how full you rear diff is. It should be 3/4" below the fill hole + or - 1/4". If it's too full it can cause the seals to leak and cause the rear brakes to lock up.

RamBob

Just did mine...

Followed infidel's advice and also bought the cheapest shoes I could get. Not really noticing much difference, but then again, my old brakes were at 85% and only needed replacing because the rear axle seal (driver's side) leaked all over the cylinder.

I'm estimating that I won't need rear brakes for a long while!!