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Process to change front springs

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Old 01-07-2008, 11:35 AM
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What is the process to change frontend springs?

I'm thinking of adding heavier springs to level my truck but not sure if its a task I want to attempt. Is there someone who has done this that could help out with this? Where did you get your springs from?

01 3/4 ton 4X4

Thanks.

Last edited by cnielsen; 01-07-2008 at 01:48 PM. Reason: sounds better this way
Old 01-07-2008, 05:11 PM
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Look on your springs for a tag containing numbers. This is your spring capacity. Some are weaker than others. Anyway, I replaced mine with cab-chassis springs that has the highest weight capacity. It leveled my truck and it rides soooooooo good with bilstein shocks.

I have a #48 drivers side and #47 on the passenger side.

I've posted a couple of good forums that contained all the information. Do a search, I'll also try tofind it for you.
Old 01-07-2008, 05:14 PM
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Here's a link to the forum. I love the feel and ride of the truck. My wife like it better than her Denali.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t=coil+springs
Old 01-07-2008, 05:24 PM
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Tommy,
Did that swap help any with body roll? My 07 seems very sloppy around bends on the Interstate, it drifts into the turns, seems unstable but in a strait line rides great.
Old 01-07-2008, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BWdiver
Tommy,
Did that swap help any with body roll? My 07 seems very sloppy around bends on the Interstate, it drifts into the turns, seems unstable but in a strait line rides great.
That could be a side-effect of aftermarket tires and/or low tire pressure.
Old 01-07-2008, 05:30 PM
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Tire's are brand new Mich's and I check tire pressure weekly.
I can go over a speed bump super slow and on the down side drop I can feel it hit the bump stop.
Old 01-07-2008, 05:33 PM
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Bad shocks? Blown shocks could give you those results. Is there a lot of wheel hop or odd tire wear?
Old 01-07-2008, 05:38 PM
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Tommy,
Read your post, makes good sence to me, somewhere I read that if you lift the truck by using spacers (I know you didn't) the front axel will move a little to one side or the other because of something to do with not enough travel in the arms???
This spring swap, dose it need new arms ? (whatever they are called).
dont want the truck crabbing.
Old 01-07-2008, 05:40 PM
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XTOYZ,
no, it's only got 3,500 miles on it, rides great except when on higher speed roads going around turns, I mean it's not terrible, but it could be alot better.

I think it's just really soft springs, and cheap shocks.
Old 01-07-2008, 06:09 PM
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I just did this a few monthes ago. I gained 3 inches of lift and no problems with stock arms and track bar so far. I got my springs from a local heavy duty spring shop. I got 1" from the springs and 2" from Hell Bent steel spacers. Rancho 9000XL adjustable shocks. I also installed poly sway bar bushings. I can be a pita to do the job...mine was...and I had a lift, LOL. If you don't have access to a lift and shop equipment. I don't reccommend doing it in the driveway....unless you are equipped and know *** your doing.



Old 01-07-2008, 06:14 PM
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plow down... The new springs and shocks made a world of difference..

Plow up.. It holds the weight Niccceeee....


and rides a ton better...
Old 01-07-2008, 07:46 PM
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That's sweet looking with that plow on it, nice job!!
I guess what I'm asking is when you do a lift, the trac bar is only going
to move so much before it wants to pull the axle over?

I just want springs and Bilstien shocks on mine and do the sway bar bushings, I should be alright with that, without trac bar probs?
Thanx, and nice job!
Old 01-07-2008, 07:50 PM
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I went with custom coils from CSS. Added 2.25" in height and actually stayed soft. Somewhere in the 385lb/in range. I installed Bilstein 5100's to go with them and absolutely LOVE the ride. I can hit dips that use to bottom out. I like the leveled look and the extra suspension travel. And since they are soft springs, it doesn't ride like a rock up front. I have a pic in my gallery. (Note: I painted them red myself - they came black)

There are many posts on the DTR in the 2004, 2005, 2006 timeframe about the 2nd gens and guys replacing springs. Of note, depending on what you want to do, KORE uses softer springs, not harder. And at first I wanted harder springs too... not anymore.

Cowhand really helped me out back then in recommending CSS. I installed them with the help of a friend and a spring compressor. All they need is the coil #'s you have now (both left and right) and what you want to do with the truck.

http://www.coilsprings.com/

Oh, and the 2.25" did pull my axle towards the drivers side about 3/4" inch or so. I left it that way for a couple years and eventually went with a Thuren adjustable tracbar to re-center it. But ultimately never had an issue with it being not quite centered.

CORed
Old 01-08-2008, 08:41 AM
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It significantly helped with body roll. If you like the firm ton truck feel like a dump truck than you'll love using the cab chassis springs. I think a spent a tad of $200 for both springs, and two rubber spring isolaters than go between the spring and mount. I gained 2-2.5" of lift.

I used a 48 for driver and 47 passenger. If I had to do over, I'd use 47 driver and 46 passenger. Not because of the ride. but when I haul my 5ver with 1600lb pin weight, the front end doesn't sink much leaving it nose up some.

I love the feel of my truck it doesn't bounce around or feel too firm when you hit a pot hole. Best mod to my truck.
Old 01-08-2008, 11:41 AM
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Thanks for all the info, a couple more questions though. What is the better way to go, springs or a puck to level the truck? Would i need to replace the track bar on either one? and how long do shocks usually last?

Thanks,


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