Hi all,
I put a down-payment on a 96 2500 auto 4WD with low miles on the weekend, and the original owner has offered to pay for the mechanical and safety inspection (at the garage where he's had it serviced for several years, who have what looks like a comprehensive 300 point inspection). Following the inspection, we'll re-negotiate the selling price based on what the truck needs now, or may need in the near future.

The truck felt tight and drove well when test driving it at highway speeds, no indication of unusual tire wear, knocking or other noises and vibration, but there's only so much I could focus on in the drive. The transmission seemed to shift smoothly and the OD worked well (it's a 4.10 diff ratio). The truck was mostly used to tow a 5th wheel during its life, and occasionally use around town.

I couldn't engage the 4-Low when test-driving it (probably has never been put in that mode before so might need lubrication) so would want to make sure that works in case I need it.

I assume that I shouldn't need to worry about getting the engine tested out (ie. compression test etc), it only has 60,000 miles? There didn't appear to be excessive blow-by from the road-tube underneath when it was idling after the road test, and no overheating indications. Interestingly, the seller told me he needed to get the IP replaced ($$$) some years ago, which I found unusual in a low-mileage truck, and which I hope isn't indicative of improper maintenance (fuel filter and sedimenter).

I'll be focusing on front end, axles, suspension and brakes issues/costs, in the inspection report. Those seem to be the big-ticket repair items from what I have read (in addition to engine and tranny obviously, but as I said, those seem to work fine, reflective of low mileage).

Anything else I should pay particular attention to, drive-train wise, to avoid costly surprises early in my ownership?

Thanks!

 

SOunds pretty good, especially with the low miles.

4-Lo is picky with my truck sometimes. Try putting the trans in "N" and waiting a second, then take your foot off the brake and let it roll a little as you pull it into 4-lo. There really isn't anything to lube, its all in the t-case.
If it got a new injection pump that is odd as it should be a P-7100 pump on a 96. If its been fixed its a non issue.

The steering components would be my biggest concern as a lot of times mileage doesn't seem to matter as much as road conditions and cheap parts.

 

Thanks for the tips Kurt.
I tried to go into 4H on the guy's flat street. Wasn't sure it was in 4WD so turned into a side street (slowly!) and could feel the tires grabbing, went back to 2WD and the grabbing stopped. So I assumed from that that 4H worked. But for the life of me I couldn't get the 4WD shifter to go to Neutral, and certainly not in 4L. I'll try it again after it's gone through the mechanical inspection. If they're worth their salt, they should take it for a road test and try it out themselves!

Yeah I was not given any explanation for the IP change. Only thing I can think of (other than freak malfunction) is lack of fuel filter replacement...

Thanks I'll particularly focus my attention on the front end and steering. The owner did say that he had to get a "lot of front end parts" replaced several years ago (7-8?). I asked him to dig up the receipts, and see what the mechanic says.

 

search on common 12V issues. Check the front end. Again, search on common issues - or just read back a few days. The same things are discussed repeatedly.

 

Mine has been a little stiffer to get into 4X4 since I had the trans replaced about 2 years ago now. Its probably the linkage but I just haven't gotten around to it cuz I can get it into 4X if I need it, which hasn't been a lot lately!

Sounds like a nice truck, I'd like a 12V someday.

 

Have not seen the inspection report yet nor spoken to the mechanic. However the owner emailed me to tell me that all it needed for the safety certificate was replacement of a worn tie rod end (no big deal) and repair a couple of small holes in the passenger floor. That second one worries me more. Having searched the forum, I gather that water getting into the cab is a common issue on 2nd Gens, with AC drain, third brake light, and sliding window (there is one on this truck) being usual suspects.

Sigh, looks like I'm going to have to take care of some rust and rust prevention issues if I buy this truck... There is already a good covering of rust on the front and rear axles, springs, brake backing plates, etc. The rest of the chassis underneath looked ok, so I gather that the cab floor rust must have originated from water ingress.

I'll be talking to the seller later today, having a look at his maintenance records. I want to make sure that the regular maintenance has been done on this truck (fuel filters, transmission filter and band adjustment, coolant changes).

The tires showed come age cracking between the threads, and the garage didn't seem to think they needed replacement. I may try to talk the price down a bit on that, since I'll likely replace the tires before heading out on a big trip (since they're showing signs of ageing wear).

 

as for cracking tires whatch this ABC report on aging tires, it shows you how to "read" the tire code that indicates when the tire was made, and how old outdated tires are sold as new!!!

http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerIndex?id=4826897

 

Thanks for that link!
Frightening indeed to realize that 6+ year old tires are being sold as new.
Also frightening is realizing that potentially much older tires are on vehicles now, with wear on them. I'll carefully look for the DOT date number on the 4 tires on this Dodge. Based on the age cracking between the threads that I saw, I would estimate they are much older than 6 years.
I suppose one thing the ABC 20/20 report did not state, is that as a general safety rule, tires on any car or truck should be replaced after they are older than "x" years? So does that mean that none of us should be driving around with tires older than 6 years on our cars, no matter what the wear on them?
Something to keep in mind when looking at an older vehicle with low miles!!

 

Price? Rust is difficult unless you are a bodyman. Each thing you have to fix drives the price down. I put an extension on the ac drain. No more problems. Put thin layer of blue RTV to match on the rear light. No problem. 2nd gens should not have a continuing water problem unless the owner is lazy.

 

Thanks, I'll proceed with those quick and cheap fixes to prevent water possibly coming in from those 2 places. There's a few small things to fix on this truck (seat track jammed on passenger seat, for ex), but the big ticket items (brakes, front end, IP, FP, etc.) seem to have been handled during the last couple of years, based on the receipts I got. Now I need to (1) get more familiar with these trucks in general, and mine in particular and (2) address any PM baselining that may not have been addressed during recent garage repairs. Oh yeah, I suppose I'll have to tackle that KDP issue I keep hearing about And get it treated profusely with rust-proofing product underneath, to keep the chassis rust at bay.

Price? I'd rather not say. Whatever I indicate I'm sure someone (or many) will say or think "you paid too much" or "I got a newer truck for less" or whatever. Based on the prices of similar trucks with lots more miles I've seen around here, I'm pleased with what I got it for. As long as the truck treats me well, it will have been a good purchase. It's been a long time since I've owned a North-American vehicle. Probably goes back to my '79 GMC 1/2 ton. Time will tell...

Let's put it this way: I paid less for the truck than the elderly previous owner paid last year to get the IP, FP and other miscellaneous bits replaced/repaired (that was a sizeable bill, over $7G's!!), in addition to what he paid yesterday to get the safety certificate and inspection, and couple of items addressed for the safety (that little bill came to a grand).

 

Congrats Rstl99!

Don't baby it, don't beat it and you'll be good. They need some attention but not too much!

Get a handle on that rust for sure and the KDP. Maybe drain and refill the trans too.

 

Thanks. "Don't baby it and don't beat it" I like the way you put that.

Have an appointment for rust-proofing next friday, and they'll shoot rustproofing fluid in every nook and cranny underneath, they do a good job up here on that.

Someone also pointed out to me a Cummins guru about an hour away, so I'll likely take an appointment to get the KDP fixed there, and maybe the tranny drain and filter as you suggest. I don't plan in driving it much more before winter, and will be putting it up during the snow season. Cheers.

 

A friends 96 has over 150K on it and he swears changing the trans flluid every 30K is what keeps his in good shape. Other than that hta's all he realy worries about.

Interestingly, dad's 94 and John's 96 haven't had anything done to the front suspension other than shocks and they still drive pretty well.

 

I will share my two cents on stuff like this, and you can take it or leave it.
These types of reports are overstated and a little rediculous. I have spent too much time overseas, in much less than ideal conditions, and have seen products work, and work well, far beyond what we are willing to allow here. Does that statement make sense? I am not trying to be harsh, or ridicule anyone for being cautious. But, if a tire has some age on it, I am not going to worry about it. Unless I am pushing it well beyond its limit, I have little to no doubt that it will deliver what I need. I had a 51 ****** CJ3-A, with the original tires still on it. I sold it two years ago, with those tires still holding air, and tough as nails. Granted, I wouldn't have risked driving 100 miles per hour on them, but the point is, they survived WELL past their expected life.
I personally have never had a tire that didn't get some cracks over time- probably every tire on the road today has some. Yet, they perform.
I'm done. You may disagree, which is your perogative. Me, I won't lose sleep over things like this.

 

couple points to counter, rubber does have a shelf life, and heat and speed play a very important part along with air pressure as well. I've been in many different countries (over seas) and have seen things that are used far past their designed limit. for example places were brake fluid is so expensive they will use water instead!, heck it will work, but not under repeated sustained braking ! water will boil and brakes wont work.
Couple things, your 1951 jeep has a top speed of 40mph?, and weighs what 1500-2000# max? so even with old tires may last forever. My experience has been that Military stuff is built to a higher standard, especially older equipment. But driving on 55yr old tires, still exceeds common sense, side story. A friend of mine is re-building a 63 Dodge and when the Insurance appraisor came to inspect it/value it, he asked how old the tires were, my friend said at least twenty yrs. The insurance guy said that they would need replacing or the veh would be denied coverage.
Take a modern dodge 2500, which weighs in at 8800# and capable of maintaining 80mph plus, pretty easy to see you will experience a problem, especially if loaded or towing. here in Canada its very rare to see a blown out tire rubber scattered on the road, if you do its usually a transport tire. yet on my vacation travelling from Edmonton Alberta to Disney in California (hyw 15) thats all I saw on the side of the road, you could not go a mile without seeing rubber, it was especially bad thru las Vegas/Navada,

Aged tires coupled with heat and speed will cause them to fail, knowledge is power, and if you are aware of a potential problem you can be prepared for it.

Not saying a perfectly new tire cant fail, because it can, and so can a used one. Most tires that blow are because of low tire pressure, the tire rides on the sidewall then the sidewall blows out,
But having the outter tread completely unwind/seperate from the tire is not normal, and seems like more likely to happen from an aged tire. I believe the ABC video, was more effective pointing out that in the States it appears to be a problem where the customer believes he/she is buying NEW tires when infact they are not. if I was shelling out hard earned money I'd want to know I was getting what I thought I was buying

on another note, if a tire does blow, and your car starts shaking violently, DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE! slowly ease off the throttle (or accelerate to regain control) and ride it out till safely off the road, as soon as you touch the brakes the veh WILL pull to the blown tire side and the veh will be out of control. this is usually the typical drivers reaction when something goes wrong, hitting the brakes to stop is what turns a bad suituation into a deadly mistake. While in the Military I was shown a trg film that showed how to control a tsp truck when they intentially blew a front tire on a turn, they taught to accelerate then slowly allow the veh to slow on its own power, you can safely control your veh, if you dont touch the brakes!


My two cents, and I would worry about such things, especially if my family is on the road or in the truck