No window control in ACC mode
#1
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No window control in ACC mode
Is this normal? Can I do anything about it?
It would be nice to open & close the windows while in the ACC mode..
Thanks!
It would be nice to open & close the windows while in the ACC mode..
Thanks!
#2
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Yes,
That's how it works. You could rewire the windows to have power in the ACC mode, but you might want to buy the service manual to figure out which wires to use.
That's how it works. You could rewire the windows to have power in the ACC mode, but you might want to buy the service manual to figure out which wires to use.
#3
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As far as I know it is normal. This is my third dodge truck, and none of them had power windows in ACC.
I am planning on making all of my windows auto up and down, and making them always hot. Currently trying to figure out if the feed for the power door locks is enough to power the windows as well... I'm thinking probally not tho.
I'll post what I figure out.
I am planning on making all of my windows auto up and down, and making them always hot. Currently trying to figure out if the feed for the power door locks is enough to power the windows as well... I'm thinking probally not tho.
I'll post what I figure out.
#4
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Originally posted by displacedtexan
As far as I know it is normal. This is my third dodge truck, and none of them had power windows in ACC.
I am planning on making all of my windows auto up and down, and making them always hot. Currently trying to figure out if the feed for the power door locks is enough to power the windows as well... I'm thinking probally not tho.
I'll post what I figure out.
As far as I know it is normal. This is my third dodge truck, and none of them had power windows in ACC.
I am planning on making all of my windows auto up and down, and making them always hot. Currently trying to figure out if the feed for the power door locks is enough to power the windows as well... I'm thinking probally not tho.
I'll post what I figure out.
#5
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On the fuse block, left side of the dash there are two circuit breakers. One for the windows, one for the power seats. The seats are always on the windows ign congrolled. Put a jumper fromt he power wire of the seat breaker to the window breaker. Five minute job, windows are always on. Mine has been that way for years.
#6
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I too have cussed my truck's windows for this very reason.
I've got a manual and I'll have to see if it is a simple fix. Unfortunately, I won't be able to take time to do it until this weekend.
Maybe someone else has the time this week for all of us...
K.
I've got a manual and I'll have to see if it is a simple fix. Unfortunately, I won't be able to take time to do it until this weekend.
Maybe someone else has the time this week for all of us...
K.
#7
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H-I-D posted the answer probably while I was still typing!
Either that or my screen refreshed when I hit send...
Either way, Thanks for the excellent info!
K.
Either that or my screen refreshed when I hit send...
Either way, Thanks for the excellent info!
K.
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#8
I was always jumping out of the truck and forgetting to roll up the windows. I wired a relay to the window so that when the drivers door is open the windows work with out the key. If the door is closed I have to turn the ignition on like normal. I use it constantly. It also allws me to open the door hit the switch and the window will roll down while I am climbing in. Now if I can make the right window roll all of the way down with a touch like the left does.
#12
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This should save some time in figuring out how to get one touch down on your windows...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=65597
I havn't done it yet, but it is in the works, hopefully soon... I am trying to get my own business running, and that is eating up pretty much all of my time not spent on here...
My worry about just tapping into the supply for the locks was pulling to many amps, I want my windows on all the time, just not bad enough to be blowing fuses and melting wires if I hit the locks and windows at the same time...
I do plan to see about jumping from the power seat socket, I don't have them. But not having them is not a big deal for me. The seat shouldn't need to move, since I am the only one that drives it... unless it has been one of those nights...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=65597
I havn't done it yet, but it is in the works, hopefully soon... I am trying to get my own business running, and that is eating up pretty much all of my time not spent on here...
My worry about just tapping into the supply for the locks was pulling to many amps, I want my windows on all the time, just not bad enough to be blowing fuses and melting wires if I hit the locks and windows at the same time...
I do plan to see about jumping from the power seat socket, I don't have them. But not having them is not a big deal for me. The seat shouldn't need to move, since I am the only one that drives it... unless it has been one of those nights...
#13
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You wouldn't happen to have a pic would you? I'm a little fuzzy about the jumper.
Originally posted by Haulin_in_Dixie
On the fuse block, left side of the dash there are two circuit breakers. One for the windows, one for the power seats. The seats are always on the windows ign congrolled. Put a jumper fromt he power wire of the seat breaker to the window breaker. Five minute job, windows are always on. Mine has been that way for years.
On the fuse block, left side of the dash there are two circuit breakers. One for the windows, one for the power seats. The seats are always on the windows ign congrolled. Put a jumper fromt he power wire of the seat breaker to the window breaker. Five minute job, windows are always on. Mine has been that way for years.
#14
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I don't have a digital camera or I would love to give you a pic. Maybe I can explain a little better...
And yes it is just as easy without power seats, I just crimped a flat spadt terminal to the end of the wire and stuck it in the top slot where the power seat breaker would go. I used my meter to find the hot side, if you don't have a meter, trial and error would work as well, incase your year is different... ya never know what things might change year to year.
The jumper is just a piece of wire about three inches long, stripped on the ends, pull the circut breakers out, stick the stripped ends of the wire into the sockets, (one end in the one for the seats, the other in the one for the windows) put the circut breakes back in and you will have windows that roll up and down whenever you want.
By the way, the circut breakes should be the only two metal things in that panel...
Hope that was enough info.
And yes it is just as easy without power seats, I just crimped a flat spadt terminal to the end of the wire and stuck it in the top slot where the power seat breaker would go. I used my meter to find the hot side, if you don't have a meter, trial and error would work as well, incase your year is different... ya never know what things might change year to year.
The jumper is just a piece of wire about three inches long, stripped on the ends, pull the circut breakers out, stick the stripped ends of the wire into the sockets, (one end in the one for the seats, the other in the one for the windows) put the circut breakes back in and you will have windows that roll up and down whenever you want.
By the way, the circut breakes should be the only two metal things in that panel...
Hope that was enough info.