I have 99, 2500, 4X4, ATS tranny, with a poweredge chip(114k miles). I bought the truck last May. 2 months later I had to replace the injector pump($1700), then a week after that the TPS went out. Nothing like driving down the road and have the pedal go dead, whoopie! I got pretty good at pulling off the road all of a sudden. Found a TPS unit on Ebay for $200, and everything is running great now. Am I dissatified with the truck, absolutley not! It is the most powerful rig I have ever owned, would never go back to a gas engine again. Took it on a 500+ mile trip and got 20mpg. I was impressed wth that.

I have been visiting DTR quite a bit and searching the archives for answers to questions. A lot of reading when the injector pump went out.

Now to my question. I did a search on this question but did not find an answer.

I need to replace the rotors on the front brakes. I checked the rotors this morning for thickness and they were way thinner than the mininum amount. Pulled out my Dodge repair book and started disassembly everything. Got down to pulling the hub and rotor off the axle but could not see how to disconnect the ABS sensor from the hub. As you know, the hub and rotor are a unit that are held together by the wheel studs. The ABS sensor appears to attach to the top of the hub. The hub and rotor have to be separated by pounding out the studs. With the ABS sensor attached to the hub, there is no way, that I can see, to detach the sensor wire and remove the hub/rotor as a unit to remove the studs. What am I missing here? Is this easier than I think? I have worked a lot on land crusier and chevy axles, but never a dana 60 axle, especially with ABS.

 

First and foremost,.....Welcome to the site.

I believe one of these threads will be able to answer your question.


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...earchid=796791

 

I didn't expect the Spanish inquisition.

Welcome to DTR, Cardinal.

 

Thanks for the link, but it doesn't work. I have done several searches for ABS, hub, ABS sensor, etc.... and still see no reference to the front ABS sensor. Looks like I wll have to go to the local diesel mechanic here and see if he can help.

 

From what I can see in my factory manual,
It looks like the rotor has to come off first, then there's a allen head bolt holding the sensor to the hub bearing.

 

Great scan That is what I am looking for. I will print that out and use it. Thanks very much!

Shop manual, I will have to see about getting one of those.

Interesting? It says to remove the sensor wire from the main connection in the engine compartment along its length and remove the hub and sensor with the wire attached. Then, disconnect the sensor. OK, I will see what that involves.

 

Attacked the rotor replacement job today. Thanks to Shovelhead, I had an idea of what to do about the ABS sensor on the disk hub. Two picks below show the removal of the sensor. If the wire hooked to the sensor is unbolted from the hub housing and the truck frame, it provides plenty of room to lay the rotor and hub on the ground. The sensor is bolted to the hub with an allen head bolt. The Allen head is 5mm. I had to grind down a allen angled rod a bit to get it to fit in the limited space. It came out without to much trouble. Removing the old rotor and wheel studs was not hard. Putting it all back together went OK, but it took a lot longer than I thought.

That was just the passenger side.

The drivers side is another story. I broke two breaker bars trying to get the 'big' nut off. A craftsmans and a cheap Autozone 1/2" drives would not budge it. Put some heat on it to no avail. OSH has a 3/4" breaker bar that is massive that I am considering ---$50! If that won't do it, I don't know what to do. Rent a big impact gun??
That nut is right handed? i.e., turn couterclockwise to remove?
So I finished the day with one side done only.

 

Righthand, CC off.
Beware, if it's that hard to get off you might just strip the threads off the axle end trying to remove the nut =$$$. Soak the heck out of it with real penetrating oil, not WD-40 for a few days. Use heat if it still doesn't come off.
If it gets to the point where a 4' cheater bar is needed- stop, chances are likely the axle will strip. Best bet then is to split the nut in half.

 

Thanks infidel. Wha is the best way to cut the nut off? Air chisel?

 

Welcome to the DTR, William, from one cruiserhead to another.. (Yeah, same "Eskimo")

You know what they say about used vehicles.. you're buying someone else's headaches.. I know I **** sure did... LOL

 

I use a nut splitter but they're way pricey especially for that large of a nut if you don't use them much. http://www.fastorq.com/splitter.htm
There are also wrench powered splitters that are much cheaper but I couldn't tell you if any are made for that large of a nut.

Guess if I didn't have one I'd use an air cutoff wheel or die grinder to cut down as far as possible then drive a chisel into the groove.

Keep it up for awhile with an oil such as PB Blaster and heat before you resort to splitting the nut.

 

Put some heat to it(be careful with this, get things too hot and you'll be replacing the unit-bearing$$$$). Get it pretty warm, then a few squirts of PB Blaster. Do this once or twice and it'll come off. Even with all that, I still had to use a 3' cheater. HTH

 

Hey this is the guy with the red 12v that was talking to you in Autozone the other day about your ABS problem. Your set up is different then my 96' I can see exactly what you mean now. Glad to hear you got it fixed. Don't forget to install a fuel pressure gauge to moniter your lift pump pressure so you don't kill another vp44.

 

As was mentioned above, a few days of soaking the nut with liquid wretch and rapping the socket while laying into the breaker bar, the nut finally came loose. That part was easy. Getting the rotor/hub off was a different story
No pullers were available, so brute force finally go the set off. But, the hub looks like it is bad. Not from me but just worn out. This is getting to be the never ending story! Where is the best place to get a new hub?

 

I've done 7 hub bearings on various Dodge's front ends, and they're all a PITA. If the nut doens't come off with me standing on a 2ft breaker bar, I don't even bother trying to soak the nut or heat it or anything. I simply take a 3/32" drillbit and drill 2-3 holes parallel the shaft into the nut. A couple of taps with a chisel, into these holes, and I can practically take the nut off by hand. USE ANTISIEZE!!! If not for your next time then the sorry soul who has to deal with it later.

I've got 30K+ on my autozone bearings, seals still look brand new, and they were about $100 less than the dealer. Yours will be pricey either way because of the ABS, but try autozone/napa/advanced/etc.