patdaly

Kiff, they changed it because Trucks are no longer Trucks. The Wimmens couldn't be bothered to get out and lock in their Hubs any longer........

Busboy

I have another 4X4 that has Warn manual locking hubs. When I first bought it used the hubs worked no problem.. until it got cold. Then it was impossible to lock both of them in most of the time. I took them off stripped them down, cleaned and packed them with silicone grease, they have worked flawlessly ever since. That was 31/32 years ago.

Kiff

Just priced out new wheel bearings for me truck $340/side. I guess I will deal with the setup I have now until it comes time to do bearings, cause for a extra couple hundred I can get a swap kit. I'm surprised no one has found a way to use parts from other axles to make a homebrew swap.

What is the difference between the EMS and Dynatrac kits? nearly double the price. Parts all look to be the same. Also what do people do about the split axle? We are eliminating the fully locked hubs with the kit, but still have the issue with the CAD axle.

patdaly

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=Ford+hub


Enjoy.........

Kiff

it says that only works with 2000 to 2007 axles. I have a 97. Dont think it will work

patdaly

Kiff, pretty sure it will work with the 94-99 as well, the only point of contention might be the rotors. I am pretty sure the larger rotor will not clear the 16" wheels, and not sure about caliper mounting on the 94-99 as well if you got larger wheels. I am pretty sure you can use the 94-97 stuff with this conversion.

Chevy stub axles are the same as Dodge for those years.

One of these days I will find a spare Dodge axle to play with, I already have a kingpin high pinion Furd to steal parts from........

justme-

Been a while but-
Re the posilok- the cable is a vernier PTO cable they pressed a special end on. The teeth in the cable that allow it to lock are threads so a PTO can be engaged to a specific position- more like an adjustible throttle for a PTO setup.

The teeth are SOFT. Stripped them within 2 weeks. New cable costs as much as a new kit (since the cable basically IS the kit) and it is not repairable.
If you're stop engaging it and the splines in the axle are not lined up it won't engage all the way- I found it easier to engage with the truck just rolling to ensure they line up- too fast and they grind or bang in.
There's a cheaper way to perm lock the front- for get their kit- just move the fork on the motor rod and re clip it. It's trail repair, but it works fine. Did it for over a year after the vac motor seized.
A vac motor that doesn't move when cold means either the diaphragm is cracking of there's moisture in the vac motor.

When my bearings go I'm doing the dyna conversion too. What's so hard about locking the hubs in October and unlocking them again in April?? Worked fine for me for years in all the other trucks we had.

Kiff

Nothing hard about locking the axle in for the winter. I was just apply direct vacuum from the pump to the axle and it works fine. Just that I was loosing a good 2mpg with the axle locked, plus it's spinning the driveshaft and t-case which is causing wear on both.