corn binder

i just bought my first 2nd gen? (i've had many 1st gens) it's a 95 2500 slt laramie 4x4 ctd it has 290,000 miles. it has the 47 tranny that was rebuilt with new converter and a shift kit, has 5" dual stacks and custom oil field bumpers. lots of new parts as it was fleet maintained since new 3,000-4,000 mile oil changes since new. what common problems do these trucks have that i should know about?

Tejas TJ

Make sure you have the Killer Dowel Pin "KDP" tabbed

carl48

the 95 is considered a 1st gen. the dowel pin is about the only thing.

OldDodgeOwner

A 95 is not a 1st gen. 1st Gen is 89-93. 2nd gen is 94-02

wthomps

Things to look for on a 2nd gen.

- Track bar
- Tie rod
- Steering box brace
- Steering box itself
- Steering shaft
- Steering column bushing
- Ball joints
- Auto transmission (even your "rebuilt" will not last long)
- Lots of rust areas (fender wells, door bottoms, rocker panels, tailgate)
- Killer dowel pin


When it comes down to it the front end on the 2nd gen trucks is pretty close to pure garbage, but it can be fixed. Once the front end is fixed, you get a good auto trans in there, get the KDP fixed, and address the rust areas before the rust begins it should be pretty near bullet proof. You're in the $4000-5000 range to do all of that, and most of that is for the transmission.

corn binder

what's this kdp you guys keep talking about? wthomps, why do you say a rebuilt transmission won't last very long either? what the problems with the transmissions and how can it be cured?

OldDodgeOwner

The killer dowel pin can fall out and fall into the gears in the front of the motor. If you do a search for KDP, there's all kinds of info on it and how to fix it before it falls out.

outofgas

Here is a good article on the KDP from Geneo's:
http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGara...erDowelPin.pdf

I would advise taking care of this of this before you do anything else. They make a kit to fix the problem that is cheap. After the fact is not so cheap. How do I know? Been there done that my 94 12 valve spit mine out at about 198,000 miles and I was very lucky as it did not damage any gears. It cracked the cover and threw oil everywhere but I was able to fix the cover and all is well.

wthomps

Most local or chain shops do all transmissions equally mediocre. Since they work on so many different transmissions they don't know your model as intimately as they should. Most times they don't use the more expensive higher quality clutches and bands. I went through this with my old 97 F150 when I took it Aamco. After a $1500 rebuild and just under 1 year later (12mo warranty) I took it back in with issues. They admitted there was something going on, but couldn't figure it out and said to keep driving it. As soon as the 12mo warranty was up they dropped me like a hot potato. It was only daily driven and never towed. I learned the hard way that you really need to go to shops that specialize in the trans you have. I would suggest Goerend, DTT, or a few of the other vendors on here that know the 47RE inside and out. I went with one of the better named trans builders when I had my 4R100 built in my F250 and that thing took every bit of abuse I could throw at it and came back for more.

You can get a 500hp transmission from DTT for about $3500. I'd run yours until it goes, but just make sure you're saving for a trans. Remember with transmissions you really do get what you pay for, except for an ATS transmission

corn binder

oooohhhhhhh!! you'd think bye 290,000 miles this would have been done bye now but maybe not. how did you fix yours with the egg shape washer?thanks for the info.

corn binder

i have a guy i know who is a automatic transmission specialist i called and asked him and he gave me the whole scoop about faulty check ball, poor oiling, small oiling inlet, mushy shift weak overdrive band&clutches etc.etc. he told me $750 plus any broken hard parts. that includes improved oiling circuits, good quality clutches&bands and changes to stiffer accumulator springs to firm up the shifts a little. this guy doesn't like using shift kits for what ever reason. an entry level billet converter is $250 extra and r&r is only $250. so for $1250 (plus any broken hard parts) i can drop my truck off and pick it up in 3 or 4 days and drive it home with a quality rebuild and a entry level billet converter. it may not hold 400 h.p. for too long but i'm not in need of a monster h.p. trans just one that will be reliable and last. he did my E4OD in my 96 f-250 7.3 3 years ago and it works flawless and it's got exhaust and cold air intake, with a edge evo tuner set on 60 h.p.. i have hauled 12,000-15,000 on my gooseneck dozens of times and it hasn't even flinched. i'm confident he could do a good trans for my application. thanks for he input i'll look into getting that kdp looked into.

outofgas

"oooohhhhhhh!! you'd think bye 290,000 miles this would have been done bye now but maybe not. how did you fix yours with the egg shape washer?thanks for the info."

Been busy just got back. I fixed mine by repairing the hole in the timing case cover with J B Weld. I didn't find the dowel pin in the crankcase.
I should:a) go ahead and pull the pan and make sure. b) pull the timing cover and install a new pin with locktite and safety tab. Perhaps this summer.
It may have been done but maybe not. Looking is cheap. I was shocked to learn the the timing case cover was over $400.00 for a new one.