dynodave

Hi all happy 4th...new guy introduction here. Now over the years, since I ordered my truck new and got it delivered in Nov of 1995, I have done most of the maintenance and repairs myself. I remember them offering me an extended warranty (I forget the price and duration of the period) However I told the sales guy I was betting that the product was good. If I though it would break down, I would not buy it!!!

Fortunately it has needed very little in 210,000+ miles. Ive done a starter, alternator, radiator, battery pair, fuel pump, HD shocks, and front brake pads (rear brakes still original!!!), hub/rotors, front wheel bearings, rear tail pipe, head light switch. More recently a muffler, rear diff seal, fuel tank mount straps, and U-joints. I've gotten almost 100,000 miles per set of tires. 19-21 mpg city, 24.9mpg best ever on highway.

A few weeks ago, after a 4 wheel panic brake lock-up at a highway exit, I found fuel dripping from the tank area...The lines 3/8 feed and 5/16 return were rusty and finally broke the rust scale and opened the flood gate. This last week has been the largest reconitioning session I have ever done with my 96 2500HD/ST auto. On the menu was new factory fuel lines, new cunifer brake lines all around, another tailpipe, new rear bumper & brackets, dismount trailer hitch/receiver. Lots of cutting torch time for rusty bolts. I really regretted the previous NAPA HD shocks, so I am also trying new Monro-matic plus gas shocks. They should be less stiff/severe then the big NAPA ones.

The local Dodge dealer parts guy told me that some time ago Dodge factory officially stopped support for 1994-2002 Ram. First I heard of it...Oh well I know that type of thing happens all the time. I guess 1 line came from Chrysler distribution and the other from a regional dealers NOS inventory. I am still looking for new rear axle bump stops that mount on the frame...it still needs some rust repairs.

I have so much enjoyed this truck that I think I will keep and eye peeled for an exact back up western/southern no rust...1996, 2wd, auto, 3.55rear, AC, cruise control, ST, (steel wheels)

patdaly

First, welcome!

Next, I don't even want to dream what they hosed you for those lines, back several years ago they were over 200 bucks each....... Most of us have simply run Marine grade rubber straight from the tank to the engine, with many years and many miles, no issues. On my first one, before I quit being so OCD, I bent 3/8" Stainless and 5/16" stainless tubes and just ran a couple of feet of rubber, but that was mostly a waste of time, rubber works just as well.

You are probably going to lose the lines out of your fuel module next ( if you haven't already done so ) If you feel up there where the hose meets the module, you can feel for scale on the lines. Chrysler has replaced the steel lines with plastic on their rebuilt modules, or you can get rid of all that nonsense with a Vulcan draw straw.

http://9gbx7.hpqh3.servertrust.com/D...shlo-p/dsi.htm

dynodave

Pat
Thanks for the reply. The pair of lines was $160 including tax. Fuel module? is that the fuel tank pickup and gauge assy?...if so, my tank lines are quite good. I originally was planning on putting some 3/8 and 5/16 cunifer lines but the OEM lines were not that expensive locally...My first go around with "EFI" fittings. I found Russell makes racing/aftermarket EFI fittings.

I am needing to replace a rusty leaking tranny cooling line too. But I now have the fuel and brake lines and tank back in and can drive it now. I was stuck riding only my Ducati S4 Monster for the last 3 weeks. Now I need to go grocery shopping and also get some beer

patdaly

Check at you local parts store.

Dorman makes them.