keith1992

Great, something else to check and worry about on my 1st Gen. I have always had less than optimal steering performance, but it has been getting worse for a while. I know I need control arm bushings and I know the tierods are nearing the ends of their lives.

thumper549

Also good idea to use Heat Stick and bring the area up to temp B4 the weld and slow cool dwn if at all possible

Clayten

Ok tell us your theory on that, and what is the temp that it should come up to? And the cool down, how long?

dodgeguy71

If you don't drill the hole at the end of the crack and you "repair" it the crack will just continue on past your welded repair. Make sure you clean off the area well and it is advisable to get some crack check dye and make sure you find the very end of the crack. The crack may go on further than what you will actually be able to see. So if you don't crack check it, with dye and you drill the hole where you see the end, you may not actually have found the end and it'll come back.

Once drilled, grind and groove the crack, weld er up and plate it...or not depending on your welding ability. Actually I'd be wondering about any sort of preheat on that frame before welding it. Cool to fast just by welding could be bad.

Ok, found this quote

"Light and medium duty truck frames are made of mild steel, they are not heat treated, as this material does not respond to heat treatment. I don't recall what filler material was used at the frame plant, but I am pretty sure it wasn't over 70 KSI. They were welded by MIG with CO2 shielding, no pre or post weld heat treat. I specifically remember the specified carbon content being 0.05% MAX on at least some of the frames. The heat treated frames found on heavy trucks were made from SAE 1027 modified. There are legal ways to lengthen these frames, hoops, hurdles, testing and certification, not something to be taken lightly, even if experienced in other areas of welding. "

So with that I would say you'd be alright without any pre heat.

thumper549

I did not quote a theory..Accord to weld hand book ( AWA )and and or SSP. Axle manufacture specs frame welds and the like you bring the temp up to 600 deg B4 the procedure and slow cool dwn.
It stops distortion ,helps in the Process from a redo.
All this is sometimes near impossible...But where strong backs and heat is used there is a lot less problems latter.
Look at any frame, very very few welds mostly rivets and bolts.
a semi Trk frame - no welds till the Dealer gets it and adds stuff.
That is all I am gonna say about it. Not trying to proove what I know just a sugestion for those whom do not know and want to.

lotero

my fix

thumper549

I think you will be fine Or at least a lot better then it WAS !
I would go around the weld area with 3m 5200 or body sealant to keep water out.
The angle iron (steel) ( A great idea ! ) will absorb the load and disperse it better.
If you asked me for a pointer ( you did not ) I would suggest trimming the 90 edges off the angle to something more gentile .

lotero

good points! i think i will take you up on it. thanks

LeonT

Same thing happened to mine at 27K. The dealer welded the frame in three places. I never hit a rock or anything though. It just started steering hard, so they replaced the PS pump and gearbox, then it started "popping" when I turned, so they replaced the gearbox again. That didn't fix it, so they contacted an engineer and finally figured out the frame was cracked.

Thank goodness for the extended warranty. I never get them, but for some reason I did on this truck.

Cummins Freak

hummmmm...i'll have to look at my frame as my steering has been a PITA lately

Gear Poet

so much for driving these trucks off-road or in New York City traffic, then....