High/lows together.
#1
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Location: Mineral Co. WV.
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High/lows together.
Anyone running the high and low beams together?
I have read several posts about this and I am currently upgrading to a self made wiring harness to incorporat relays to the headlights and thought of wiring the lows and highs together when switched to high beam.
Is this too much heat?
I am using relays from a harness I cut up from an 00 model truck as well as the light plugs at the bulbs.
I have read several posts about this and I am currently upgrading to a self made wiring harness to incorporat relays to the headlights and thought of wiring the lows and highs together when switched to high beam.
Is this too much heat?
I am using relays from a harness I cut up from an 00 model truck as well as the light plugs at the bulbs.
#2
As long as you use a relay to power the other lights and not just a jumper or whatever on the light harness then you'll be fine. I'm pretty sure the lights are negative trigger.
I was fortunate enough to find a used brite-box for cheap that saved me from tracing wires and figuring out a relay setup.
I was fortunate enough to find a used brite-box for cheap that saved me from tracing wires and figuring out a relay setup.
#3
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hi
i have been using the high and low together for over 1 year and no prob yet .
i do have a upgrade harness with only 2 relays .
i added a diode to the unused headligh pigtail to cause the high and low to come on together for high beam .also i have 100/80 watt bulbs .
i have been using the high and low together for over 1 year and no prob yet .
i do have a upgrade harness with only 2 relays .
i added a diode to the unused headligh pigtail to cause the high and low to come on together for high beam .also i have 100/80 watt bulbs .
#4
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i did just as oldblues described. it did not work well for me, but i think the reason is because i have aftermarket lights with reflector housing - so the bulb is semi-enclosed in the front shield which allows for less heat dissipation away from the bulb . . .
if i had stock housing i would probably try it again because the light output was amazing.
if i had stock housing i would probably try it again because the light output was amazing.
#5
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13 years on both my '95s without a problem.
I have one relay mounted on the driver's side battery box.
Fused positive straight from the battery to the switched side of the relay.
High beam wire right behind the headlight triggers relay to switch the battery positive to the low beam wire behind the light.
Both the lo and hi beam wires are just ScotchLoced teed into, no wire cutting.
Beauty of this setup is that if anything goes wrong the system reverts to stock.
I have one relay mounted on the driver's side battery box.
Fused positive straight from the battery to the switched side of the relay.
High beam wire right behind the headlight triggers relay to switch the battery positive to the low beam wire behind the light.
Both the lo and hi beam wires are just ScotchLoced teed into, no wire cutting.
Beauty of this setup is that if anything goes wrong the system reverts to stock.
#6
Registered User
13 years on both my '95s without a problem.
I have one relay mounted on the driver's side battery box.
Fused positive straight from the battery to the switched side of the relay.
High beam wire right behind the headlight triggers relay to switch the battery positive to the low beam wire behind the light.
Both the lo and hi beam wires are just ScotchLoced teed into, no wire cutting.
Beauty of this setup is that if anything goes wrong the system reverts to stock.
I have one relay mounted on the driver's side battery box.
Fused positive straight from the battery to the switched side of the relay.
High beam wire right behind the headlight triggers relay to switch the battery positive to the low beam wire behind the light.
Both the lo and hi beam wires are just ScotchLoced teed into, no wire cutting.
Beauty of this setup is that if anything goes wrong the system reverts to stock.
The salt will get into the wiring harness where the scotch lock cuts threw the wires insulation and then you will soon have a JUNK wiring harness because the salt migrates both directions and eats the wiring very quickly !!!!
Same holds true for scotch locks on trailers = junk in the salt belt.
You can get away with it if you seal the scotch lock well with silicone but i choose to solder and heat shrink everything and then seal the ends with silicone for extra insurance.
#7
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You're right, ScotchLocs are bad under a vehicle, I hardly use them but the place they are used in my headlight mod is very well protected.
Never had to deal with salt though, very rarely used out west.
In my area it's mostly just sand with a few inch diameter rocks mixed in to take out your windshield.
Never had to deal with salt though, very rarely used out west.
In my area it's mostly just sand with a few inch diameter rocks mixed in to take out your windshield.
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#8
I used the Scotchloc to make my high low work together but I used it to splice two wires together under the steering wheel so its out of the weather also added relays. Mines been working for about four years now w/o a problem.
Floyd
Floyd
#9
Registered User
You're right, ScotchLocs are bad under a vehicle, I hardly use them but the place they are used in my headlight mod is very well protected.
Never had to deal with salt though, very rarely used out west.
In my area it's mostly just sand with a few inch diameter rocks mixed in to take out your windshield.
Never had to deal with salt though, very rarely used out west.
In my area it's mostly just sand with a few inch diameter rocks mixed in to take out your windshield.
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