HELP No A/C
06-12-2009, 07:43 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cape Breton,N.S / Ft Mac AB
Posts: 611
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
HELP No A/C
No AC at all , no water dripping from under the truck , no condensation on little black bottle under hood, where do I start looking , truck only has 50K KM on it. If needed a recharge wouldn't it at least be trying to get cold ????? I need help on this one , will have to take to dealer to fix , no A/C shops around. I don't want to be a rape victim.
06-12-2009, 08:11 PM
#2
Registered User
First start the truck turn on the AC to max cold (not Recirc) then if compressor is not engaged remove the plug from the lo press sw on the drier (black cylindrical thing close to firewall on pax side) Short across the two terminals and if the compressor engages you need a recharge. You may have or still have a leak, but if you have never recharged it before I would start by recharging it first.
06-12-2009, 08:17 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cape Breton,N.S / Ft Mac AB
Posts: 611
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I thought max AC is recirc and reg AC is outside air.????? The dryer has no moisture on it , How does one know if the compressor is engaged ? Motor is too loud I can usually hear them on gas rigs though ??? I am an AC novice , not a clue. LOL
06-12-2009, 08:42 PM
#4
Registered User
You ARE correct MAX is recirc on our trucks, not all vehicles though. I meant full cold not recirc. When you short the two terminals together the compressor should engage, you will hear a loud click and if you watch the front of the compressor you will see it start to turn. You can also keep touching the two terminals together, on/off on off and you will clearly hear if it does engage.
06-12-2009, 08:55 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cape Breton,N.S / Ft Mac AB
Posts: 611
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
OK I give that a try , so if the compressor works it means I need a re charge , I guess that means I could also have a leak like the evap. core or something. That would suck bad.Anything else to check like relays ,switchs etc.......
06-13-2009, 04:51 PM
#6
Registered User
If the freon is low then it did leak out, but that does not necessarily mean you still have a leak as it could have been the compressor font seal. Recharge it and go from there.
06-13-2009, 10:54 PM
#7
Yes thats the only thing you could do is Recharge it....I'm fighting with my AC right now...Check you low pressure line to see if it was rubbing against the high pressure line...Thats what happened with my truck..But this is the way I bought the truck 4 years ago...Just this year I decided to replace the line....My compressor seems to hold pressure but slowly starts to loss pressure....Replacing the evaporator right now....I hope thats the problem...
Trending Topics
06-14-2009, 12:43 PM
#9
Registered User
The only way to tell if the evaporator is leaking is to either put some freon in the system and use a freon detector or to remove the evaporator and pressure check it on the bench. If the local guy didn't put some freon in the system then he certainly didn't remove the evaporator and pressure check it. It probably is a pretty good GUESS, but that could be all it was. Don't change it on speculation. Recharge it or have it recharged and leak check the evaporator using a freon detector.
06-14-2009, 02:38 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The first time I did it, it really sucked. The second time it just sucked. Basically, remove drivers a pillar trim, remove glove box, drop the steering column, remove the center shifter trim and loosen the bracket underneath that. Remove the top dash bolts, loosen the 2 large bolts under dash. Swing the dash out (chock the wheels b/c your e brake will release when you do this. I rotate the dash out on the passenger side and support it with a ratchet strap off the grab handle above. remove 2 inside nuts and 4 outside nuts (1 is under ECU plate). You will have to remove the air intake, evacuate the a/c system, remove the heater hoses, remove the evaporator a/c lines. Then pull the HVAC box out of the truck. Swap out the core, check all the foam b/c most likely it will be all deteriorated and replace it all. Get a new heater core and new heater hoses. Reverse procedure.
06-15-2009, 12:01 PM
#11
Registered User
Is the evaporator the most common place that leaks develop? How likely is it that leaks develop from the compressor?
I charged my truck twice with cans that had UV dye in it, but using a UV light at night I found no trace of the leak. Do these UV dyes work? My truck will hold a charge for about 2 days and then be dead.
I charged my truck twice with cans that had UV dye in it, but using a UV light at night I found no trace of the leak. Do these UV dyes work? My truck will hold a charge for about 2 days and then be dead.
06-15-2009, 01:33 PM
#12
Is the evaporator the most common place that leaks develop? How likely is it that leaks develop from the compressor?
I charged my truck twice with cans that had UV dye in it, but using a UV light at night I found no trace of the leak. Do these UV dyes work? My truck will hold a charge for about 2 days and then be dead.
I charged my truck twice with cans that had UV dye in it, but using a UV light at night I found no trace of the leak. Do these UV dyes work? My truck will hold a charge for about 2 days and then be dead.
06-15-2009, 01:35 PM
#13
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2500TurboDodge
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
7
07-31-2006 04:21 PM