Heater trouble
#1
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Location: Harrodsburg,Ky
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Heater trouble
I'm having an issue getting heat in the cab.I put a new thermostat in and a new radiator cap.The heads not leaking and the engine dont overheat.All my controls work in dash and it will blow a little warm air but nothing like it should.I just bought the truck so I think I've checked all the little things.The heater core hoses are not plugged or reversed and it is topped off with anti-freeze has anybody got any ideas whats next thanks....
#2
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Where is the heat indicated on your dash?
You might want to try and put a piece of card board in between the innercooler & radiator during really cold weather, in the teens. Cut a 6" hole in the center to allow some air to get to the fan clutch for cooling.
Your readings should be at least 180F. If not get a 190F thermostat.
You might want to try and put a piece of card board in between the innercooler & radiator during really cold weather, in the teens. Cut a 6" hole in the center to allow some air to get to the fan clutch for cooling.
Your readings should be at least 180F. If not get a 190F thermostat.
#3
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Are your hoses under pressure? Specifically the top coolant hose and heater core rubber elbow?
If they are your getting a leak into the water jacket from a cylinder. Doesn't sound too likely, but its worth checking.
If they are your getting a leak into the water jacket from a cylinder. Doesn't sound too likely, but its worth checking.
#4
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Make sure the blend door is adjusted right in your HVAC system. On your heater control, turn the hot/cold **** agressively from stop to stop. You should hear a little "thunk" at each end as the blend door hits each stop.
#5
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You don't say what year of truck and if the temp gauge comes up to operating temp. If the engine is up to temp and no heat inside the cab either you have poor flow through the core or your blend door is not going to full heat. The early trucks used a "boden" cable a hardened steel rigid cable that sometimes slip off at either end or kink either fails to move the blend door much. The later trucks use an electric actuator to move the blend door. Have someone move the hot/cold sw and look under the pax side close to the hump, you should see the actuator or the arm on the blend door moving if not theres your problem. If it is then see if you have flow through the heater core.
#6
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I have the same problem. I just put on a new water pump. Alldata says poor heat may be caused by a bad water pump which causes little or no flow to the heater core. Mine was the original one w/ 350,000 mile on it and there was nothing left compared to the new one, but that didn't help. Only other problem could be the fins in the heater core are plugged up with debris. So thats what I am doing next, getting a new heater core.
HTH
HTH
#7
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Thanks guy's .Its a 98 1/2.The gauge goes up to 190 and the door is flopping over correctly.I heard heater cores in a dodge are a bad word LOL! only thing left is water pump or core thanks again
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#8
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Location: Thamesford, Ontario Canada
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I'm not sure on our trucks, but do they have a filter before the heater core, or anywhere in the system?
We got a few trucks in at work saying they have no heat. Ended up being the filter was so plugged, the hot air couldn't get through it.
We got a few trucks in at work saying they have no heat. Ended up being the filter was so plugged, the hot air couldn't get through it.
#9
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Alldata lists a cabin air filter but does not say where or exactly how to get at it. I will do some investigating and try that before the heater core. It's got to be easier lol.
Does anyone know how to get to the cabin air filter?
Does anyone know how to get to the cabin air filter?
#10
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I've never seen a cabin air filter up here but that doesn't mean they don't exist. Some cars have them and they are before the evaporator. If yours had one it would not cut down on the heat just the amount of air flow. More than likely it's a plugged heater core, if it's not leaking before you remove it try back flushing just the core. Take off both heater hoses and back flush the core with hot water from a hose, if you crimp off the heater hoses you won't lose too much coolant.
#13
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#14
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I have heat again!!!!!
Here is what I found: The dial for the air temp is connected to a cable which is connected to a plastic arm which moves a door. Something is stripped out so when I put on heat the door was not moving enough or at all. I unhooked the cable and could move the arm farther so for now I wire tied it. There is more air moving too. I also unhooked the recirc door rod and wired it almost closed.
Heat has dramatically increased.
Pull out the glove box, it's easy to see.
Heat has dramatically increased.
Pull out the glove box, it's easy to see.
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