Don't think the lever came till '97
Makes no difference.

 

thats good to hear. I have a 96 12v 3500

 

Jim Lane, thanks for the link...interesting and informative read. Thank you!

I have been able to verify the metering portion of the combination is functioning. I have not had the time to screw around with the proportioning side of the valve. The more I get into this, the more I'm thinking this is somehow related to the last time I had a brake line blow. I have this sneaky feeling that some of the crud that I found in the bottom of the master cylinder reservior made it's way into many of the brake system components.

upnover, the brake hoses and lines are all new, with the exeption of a few short lines at the master cylinder. The calipers and wheel cylinders are new, too.

Infidel, the lever might have come after '97 because mine doesn't have one, or, it might be on those trucks with rwal only.

 

perfect thanks i had heard of this before but now I have the #'s i need for my '97 and my dads '01 awesome

 

Not trying to steal the thread but I can't even get the drums off to install wheel cyclinder...anyone have any ideas or help? I've tried removing them twice, spraying w/wd-40 and almost everything else I can think of. Have I missed the boat completely?

 

Two options.

Totally back the adjusters off, and hammer.

Remove both rear wheels, set the truck on STURDY stands, throw the truck in drive, and jab the breaks. Make sure you throw a lug nut on, because it WILL throw the drum.

 

I had to do the trick that infidel was kind enough to share, with the rear wheel off the ground and tires off reinstall two or three lug nuts, not tight. Put in gear so the brake drums are rotating slam on the breaks. It worked so well it scared me how quickly it happened.

Floyd

 

i did not have to take any brakes parts off at all, just open bleed screw
and push in the 2 tabs that go to the shoes,
my 97 drums come off without taking off the axle and hub
but i took them off anyway as i was not sure on this
if any pressure is on the wheel cyc once installed back off on the adjmt some
bill

 

Thanks! will try the easiest one first.

 

i have had mine off several times for inspection.
i always use heat either with a propane torch or oxy acetylene, i prefer the latter because its faster.... but don't over do it, a moderate amount of heat goes a long way... if it worries you about the heat, just think about the heat generated when using your brakes

 

Went to the local NAPA store to check on part #4637337. They said the part is unavailable. Can anyone tell me the vehicle these cylinders are for? The only thing I've been able to find is that they are for a GM. I'm hoping to find them at Autozone or Checker. Thanks.

 

Just tell 'em it's for a 95 Silverado K3500. Dually, not single wheel.

Napa's site says :37337

 

NAPA found it using part #37337. Thanks for your help. This is a great site.

 

I hate to post this here, but, since some of us are having rear lockup problems and I believe this may eventually help, I'll give it a go. First off, I'm convinced the lockup is not caused by the GM wheel cylinders. I think the GM wheel cylinders simply exagerate an existing problem. With that said, the brakes on my truck have now started doing something a little different, but, similar to the symptoms I've mentioned in previous posts about difficulty feathering the brakes in stop and go traffic. Today, when I would be slowing to a nice controlled stop(from any speed or distance), I would press on the brake as normal. Everything would appear to be working as normal. At the point where I would be slowed and ready to come to a nice smooth stop within maybe 30 ft of the car infront of me, I noticed I would have to press on the pedal slightly harder. The pedal felt solid, but, it didn't feel as if the truck was going to stop. So, I would just barely add a little more pressure to the pedal and suddenly it would go from feeling like I wasn't going to stop to the rears locking up. I'm hoping someone has some advice with this new information that my truck has started doing today. Thanks for the help!

BTW, the GM wheel cylinders have already been replaced with oem cylinders. That temporarily fixed the lockup problem, but, it eventually came back and is getting worse.

 

Have you checked your vacuum pump?

This sounds like you are running out of vacuum to actuate your booster, when you are lightly applying (feathering) your brakes you are using up the volume inside the booster and if the vacuum pump is failing (not enough CFM) there will not be enough vacuum to successfully apply your brakes so as a result of less power assist you will now have to stand on the pedal to compensate and you could cerate your own lockup.

When the power brakes fail you suddenly loose the feedback between how fast the truck is slowing down and how hard you are pushing on the pedal.

With a properly operating power brake, you only have 2 or 3 assisted applications after the vacuum supply fails.

When my vacuum pump failed suddenly it took all I had with both feet on the brake to bring it to a stop, if my wife would have been behind the wheel she most certainly would have plowed through the car in front of her.

Here some tech tips on brakes
http://www.bendixbrakes.com/techCorner/faq.php

These are for Hydro Boost.
http://www.mightyautoparts.com/pdf/articles/tt113.pdf

Jim