we pulled a vacume and ps pump combo off a 98 12valve and put on the 4x4 steering is way better and the only diff in the two pumps is the 98 and up have two low pressure lines so we just blocked one off sadly a week later (last night) the ps pump on my 99 24valve let go and it is just pouring out

 

Just found this thread..Sounds impressive...
If you have to bleed the brake lines, is there an upgraded brakehose worth installing?
I was considering a jakebrake or pacbrake--only haul 10K, could this mod
relieve my need for an exhaust brake?

Also, I just had my rear brakes installed less than a year ago (less than 3K)
So I should just be able to change out the cylinders?
Nothing else unless there's a hose mod?
And does brand of brake fluid matter?

 

It's a very impressive mod, the best bang for the buck you'll find.
Brand of brake fluid doesn't matter, just use the same type, most likely Dot 3 unless you changed to something else.
You can do this mod without changing any other brake parts, just the cylinders.
Only a couple of springs need to come off to do the swap.

On another website folks are saying the part number 37337 for the cylinders isn't working anymore.
I have no idea what's up with that, it's been the same p/n for at least seven years.
If the number doesn't work say you want cylinders for a '95 GMC one ton.

 

13 bucks each in stock.......time for a brake job. 37337 worked fine here in canada anyway.

 

I personally hate my 1 ton wheel cylinder upgrades. Had em on for two years.

The reason I hate it is my ABS doesn't work at all. I've **** near had a few wrecks because my rear end will lock up way too EASY. If i'm loaded I can deal with it. Brand new everything on the rear brakes (shoes, springs, drums)

I'm gonna try to fix the ABS problem. If I can't fix it (it's never worked since I've owned the truck) I'm gonna toss the wheel cylinders...too dangerous for me.

**edit** just read the whole thread. What I posted above has already been covered

 

Just installed a set last weekend and I agree...huge improvement in the brakes. My front rotors are warped and now they almost seem bearable now that the rear breaks are actually doing something. And it only cost me $17.00!!!

 

For folks who don't read the whole thread the lockup problem is rare and seems to point to an unknown problem elsewhere in the braking system.

 

Put the 30 mil wheel cylinders in today now I have another problem, I am driving like a 16 year old cause now I can stop, what used to feel like a tank now feels like a toyota. the other problem is the mileage is out the window LOL. seems to be significantly better braking didn't even adjust them up, just added wheel cylinders and power bled. ABS seems unaffected and functions fine .$29 bucks cdn taxes in

 

I put the GM cylinders on this morning and can tell a difference even without adjusting the brakes.
I do have a question though. These GM cylinders are a little shorter and fatter than the stock ones from my 3500. Did I get the right cylinders? I used the part # listed in this thread.

Thanks.

 

I noticed the same thing doesn't seem to matter they still fit snug against the stops

 

is the abs lite on?

I've found if the the p-brake cables stick it can leave the p-brake arms slightly on causing rear wheel lock up, and the ABS CANNOT compensate for it because it's not locked up because of fluid application but by mechanical means. the only way to confim it is to remove the drums and physically force the p-brake levers all the way back. just because the p-brake works does not mean that its releasing completely.

something to check when your looking to repair the ABS.

 

I just did the mod, had a brake cyl go out and figured I'd do em both, took me 45 minutes. napa did not have some so i went to carquest. Part # EM79768. $10.79 each,they work great! I did have to get a m/c also, i stomped it down to hard when the cylinder went out.

I was surprised how much larger they are. here is a comparison pic.

 

the adjusters work about as well as the original brakes do... I'm looking into a disc conversion on my 94 dana 70 axle using GM calipers and ford rotors with some adapter plates (for mounting the caliper) off of ebay. The calipers are like $320 a set (with parking brake set up)... the rotors are $150 or so per set and the adapters are around $200... throw in some braided lines for $30... not bad... I may have to get a proportioning valve, because the anti-skid on my truck doesn't work worth a flip and it's the only way to be able to adjust the rears in proportion with the fornts. The other option I thought about was a line lock for $50 and get the calipers without the parking brake because they're only $120 a set... Just another way to shave a few bucks and then I get 4 wheel parking brakes. Of course in texas how often do I need a parking brake??? I havn't parked on a hill in about 20 years.

Johnny

 

Its called an emergency brake! for when a steel line rusts thru you can still get slowed down.

 

Your box shows part #EW79768 but your text says #EM79768 is the # on the box the correct carquest # ??