speedster1858

Hi,
I can't avoid the noises and front tire wear any longer. I think new ball joints are needed. Is this a home shop job? I have skill and tools (spring compressor, arbor press, big hammers). What is the procedure? I already replaced the idler arm.

Red3quarter

Having an Oxy/Acetylene torch helps alot when trying to loosen the stock parts. Also I would recomend getting the Ball Joint Press kit and the adapter kit from harbor freight. Having it helped out alot. You can also go rent one from autozone if you don't wanna buy one. Allow yourself alot of time to get the job done.I spent part of a thursday night and a friday morning doing this job.

Red3quarter

As long as you have everything all apart do your axleshaft ujoints and replace your hubs if needed. I didn't do my axle ujoint when everything was apart and I had to take everything off again to do it a couple thousand miles after doing the job.

smokeyram

replace everything while you have it open. adds some cost, but not fun doing it twice. allow 8-10 hours .

speedster1858

Thanks Matt and Smokey.
It's 2 wheel drive. Smokey, please list "everything" that I should replace.

ClayBob

Not sure about 2wd but the procedure for 4wd goes like this:
Break loose the 1 11/16 hub hut before anything else. Pull the wheel, pull the caliper and rotor, pull the hub, pull the steering steering linkage. Now for the good news: It can be done at home! Now for the bad news: At least on my truck (140K on a 3500 4x4) I had to sacrifice the rotors and beat them off with a BFH. While the hubs didn't make any noise I'm told they traditionally last between 50-100k. I had to use use kroil, heat and the power steering trick (do a search on this site) to get them off. I dont seem able to locate a unit bearing and replacement hubs are $350-400 each. After they're out you can drop the steering linkage and then the spindle.
As far as the parts:
upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, adjusting sleeves, idler arm (if so equipped) sway bar bushings and end links. My package, not including hubs, was about $100.
Hope this helps to get you started.

rotohead

Only other thing to consider for you 4x4 guys is whether you replace axles seals. I did my ball joints/bearing hubs and didn't change the seals. They're seeping ever so slightly, not even enough to wet the floor. The drivers side seal requires removal of the differental. Sometimes the seals will leak for a short while then stop. I'm hopeful mine do that. Sure hate the thought of pulling all that stuff apart again.

Tate

First time I ever did front end work was on my dually. Took the better part of the day, but the second side went much faster than the first since I knew what I was doing by then. I never used a spring compressor. Support the trucks weight on the arm with a jack stand, it will be fine. I did 4 ball joints, and the 4 tie rods. Reused the sleeves, pitman arm and idler arm were in decent shape then. You don't need to remove the rotor, or even the caliper or brake line. Disconnect the tie rods and seperate from the balljoints, and set the spindle/rotor assembly on something like a milk crate just behind the a-arm. You will have just enough slack in the brake line to do that. Then start pressing the old ball joints out, and the new ones in. Mine came out with the press alone, didn't need heat or a hammer. You might not be so lucky. Get some kroil and soak them before you start working. Its fairly straight forward. You might want a hand when taking the spindle on and off, its heavy and awkward (especially on a dually).

VADSLRAM

2wd are a piece of cake! there are only 2 connection points per side to worry about. Adn you really don't have to remove a lot to get to them.
I do both bearings (inner and outer) when I do ball joints because then I don't have to worry about getting crud in them.
Buy/rent/borrow a fork to pop the ball joints a pneumatic one makes the job almost fun. On other vehicles when I was young and poor...I'm not young anymore I would change the top one without a spring clamp. Now I know better and compress the springs and do them both at once.
Depending on ...I'm not sure what ..youe ball joints are held on with either rivets or studs. check first to see if your going to need to cut them off (again an air hammer makes life easy).
I haven't done my truck yet but I've done other people's and with the right tools both sides and pressing in new bearings takes about 3.5 hrs.
4WD takes a lot more work.