Front end rotar removal question
06-21-2006, 02:59 PM
#1
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Front end rotar removal question
Guys
the knuckleheads at the tireshop broke two lugs off of my truck, I want to know what is the measurement of that large retaining nut that holds down the rotor? The one in the very center of the rotor, sorta where lockin hubs should be, that is held together by a cottar pin, im also gonna do brakes very soon and want to know the measurement of that nut, what is the best socket to remove it? a 6 sided or a 12 sided?
I know i have seen a post by DaveLX88 that shows how not to remove it, so id like to know is it ok to remove the front tire, put it back on (remove cap on rim to expose the nut) and just take the proper size socket, some breaker bars and a good cheeter pipe and just undo that sucker loose? (with aid from some penetrating oil as well?
Thanks guys!
Rick
the knuckleheads at the tireshop broke two lugs off of my truck, I want to know what is the measurement of that large retaining nut that holds down the rotor? The one in the very center of the rotor, sorta where lockin hubs should be, that is held together by a cottar pin, im also gonna do brakes very soon and want to know the measurement of that nut, what is the best socket to remove it? a 6 sided or a 12 sided?
I know i have seen a post by DaveLX88 that shows how not to remove it, so id like to know is it ok to remove the front tire, put it back on (remove cap on rim to expose the nut) and just take the proper size socket, some breaker bars and a good cheeter pipe and just undo that sucker loose? (with aid from some penetrating oil as well?
Thanks guys!
Rick
06-21-2006, 03:50 PM
#2
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I wanna say I used a 1 3/4" socket on it but not sure. When I did mine I used a 16-18" breaker bar with a 4' cheater pipe and I sat on the cheater pipe. This was after spraying penetrating fluid on it and letting it sit for about 5 hours. When it finally let loose I thought I had broken the sucker. It takes a lot of effort to remove it. And mine only had 90k some odd miles.
06-21-2006, 04:03 PM
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1-3/4 6point will work but its a little loose. You do know that just holds the axle to the hub it still has 4 9/16 12point bolts on the back that hold the hub/rotor to the spindle?
06-21-2006, 04:23 PM
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I know that you are going to do brakes later, but you can put those studs in without removing the whole thing. They press in, but you can knock them out with a hammer and punch (at least I did) and put them back in without removing all that too. Just take the brake caliper off and you have enough room to get the new stud in there. I used an electric impact with an old lug nut and a stack of washers to seat the new studs in.
06-21-2006, 06:14 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by Partsman
1-3/4 6point will work but its a little loose. You do know that just holds the axle to the hub it still has 4 9/16 12point bolts on the back that hold the hub/rotor to the spindle?
Was not aware of that fact
Ive never taken off that nut to begin with, seems to me that nut might be metric, i dont wanna run any risk of strippin that sucker, I will go out and buy a 1 3/4 socket later on, but i think ima need a huge ratchet or a really good breaker bar, I use a ratchet and 4 foot cheeter pipe to undo my lug nuts, i dont even have to bend over or make much strain, but by the way this sounds, seems like ima have a fun time removin this thing..
What about the 9/16 bolts on the back? are they that tough as well?
Thanks!
Rick
06-22-2006, 10:04 AM
#7
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Beware if you need a 4' cheater to break it lose.
Odds are very high that the nut is galled on and the male threads on the axle stub will come off with the nut. I would use heat or split the nut before grabbing the cheater bar.
Been there, done that.
Odds are very high that the nut is galled on and the male threads on the axle stub will come off with the nut. I would use heat or split the nut before grabbing the cheater bar.
Been there, done that.
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06-22-2006, 11:58 AM
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You don't need to remove the rotor to replace the lugs, as mentioned above you can drive them through with a punch and a few wacks. Taking the roter off is a painful process, (on a 4x4) Big Nut in the front, 4 bolts in the back, lots of liquid wrench, and a wheel puller. Unless they desparately need cut or replaced, my advice is not to mess with them.
When you are pounding the lugs through there is a hole in the back to remove them and insert them. Turn the rotor to line them up.
good luck
When you are pounding the lugs through there is a hole in the back to remove them and insert them. Turn the rotor to line them up.
good luck
06-22-2006, 12:42 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by manjerovic
You don't need to remove the rotor to replace the lugs, as mentioned above you can drive them through with a punch and a few wacks. Taking the roter off is a painful process, (on a 4x4) Big Nut in the front, 4 bolts in the back, lots of liquid wrench, and a wheel puller. Unless they desparately need cut or replaced, my advice is not to mess with them.
When you are pounding the lugs through there is a hole in the back to remove them and insert them. Turn the rotor to line them up.
good luck
When you are pounding the lugs through there is a hole in the back to remove them and insert them. Turn the rotor to line them up.
good luck
Thanks!
ill keep this in mind, ima have to machine my rotor anyways by the looks of it, so ill just print this thread for my refrence... thanks again guys for all the help!
Rick
06-23-2006, 04:05 AM
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This thread covers all sorts of methods of removing the hub.
If you don't have access to the hub-puller (you might rent one), the next best way to do get the hub out is:
HOWEVER, modify the above instructions to heed this warning:
That about covers it.
If you don't have access to the hub-puller (you might rent one), the next best way to do get the hub out is:
Originally Posted by DZLPWR
I did mine a few months ago and its not realy hard. Took me 6 hours to get the first side off, using pullers and beating on it. Found a tip on here that saved the day in about 15 seconds. Got the other side off in about 30 min.
1. Set the front axle up on secure jack stands and remove wheels.
2. Find a large socket to fit the axle nut (1 11/16?) and have someone apply the brakes while you remove the nut. ( you could do it with the truck still on the ground w/wheels on)
3. remove calipers and hang with wire.
4. remove the 4 bolts on the back of the spindle Note: they are 12 point
5. Heres the tip that saved my day and was the only way i could get mine off(very rusty). If you have 4 wheel abs, then dont do this, unless some body explains how you can. There is some type of ring that must be removed???
-Anyways, turn the front of the wheel/rotor all the way in towards the truck.
-Rotate the axle shaft so that the inner u-joint is vertical.
-Place a good sized socket (1.5-2" long) between the outer u-joint (horizontal), and the end of the axle tube.
- start up the truck and turn the steering wheel in the appropriate direction, to press out the hub. (if your working on the driver side, turn the steering wheel left and vise versa for pass side).
Hub should pop right out.
- Slide the hub off, and try to support the axle shaft so it dosent "hang". Try to keep it horizontal as possible while the hub is off.
- Thats as far as i got with the hub, i didnt pull the rotor apart, but like everyone else said, you bang out the studs to remove it. I had my rotors turned with the hub still on.
I may have forgot some steps and the last step may sound like greek, just ask questions if you dont see how to do it. Goodluck -Jake
1. Set the front axle up on secure jack stands and remove wheels.
2. Find a large socket to fit the axle nut (1 11/16?) and have someone apply the brakes while you remove the nut. ( you could do it with the truck still on the ground w/wheels on)
3. remove calipers and hang with wire.
4. remove the 4 bolts on the back of the spindle Note: they are 12 point
5. Heres the tip that saved my day and was the only way i could get mine off(very rusty). If you have 4 wheel abs, then dont do this, unless some body explains how you can. There is some type of ring that must be removed???
-Anyways, turn the front of the wheel/rotor all the way in towards the truck.
-Rotate the axle shaft so that the inner u-joint is vertical.
-Place a good sized socket (1.5-2" long) between the outer u-joint (horizontal), and the end of the axle tube.
- start up the truck and turn the steering wheel in the appropriate direction, to press out the hub. (if your working on the driver side, turn the steering wheel left and vise versa for pass side).
Hub should pop right out.
- Slide the hub off, and try to support the axle shaft so it dosent "hang". Try to keep it horizontal as possible while the hub is off.
- Thats as far as i got with the hub, i didnt pull the rotor apart, but like everyone else said, you bang out the studs to remove it. I had my rotors turned with the hub still on.
I may have forgot some steps and the last step may sound like greek, just ask questions if you dont see how to do it. Goodluck -Jake
HOWEVER, modify the above instructions to heed this warning:
Originally Posted by Crimedog
DO NOT REMOVE the axle nut while you bust the hub loose!!!
If you crack it free, then tighten it back up again it will keep the hub bearing from separating when you take it off. Be liberall with anti seize when you reassemble everything, including all parts of where the hub meets the knuckle, and the axle shaft threads so that if/when you have to take it apart again, you won't run as much risk.
If you crack it free, then tighten it back up again it will keep the hub bearing from separating when you take it off. Be liberall with anti seize when you reassemble everything, including all parts of where the hub meets the knuckle, and the axle shaft threads so that if/when you have to take it apart again, you won't run as much risk.
That about covers it.
06-23-2006, 10:40 AM
#12
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ProspectorTim
This thread covers all sorts of methods of removing the hub.
If you don't have access to the hub-puller (you might rent one), the next best way to do get the hub out is:
HOWEVER, modify the above instructions to heed this warning:
That about covers it.
If you don't have access to the hub-puller (you might rent one), the next best way to do get the hub out is:
HOWEVER, modify the above instructions to heed this warning:
That about covers it.
i now get this thread on how to better remove everything, I dont do anything to my truck anymore without consulting on here first...
Rick
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