Front end parts for 99 2500 shortbox
#1
Front end parts for 99 2500 shortbox
I took my truck into the shop to get an alignment. And they said they couldn't do it because everything was shot underneath. They said I needed upper and lower ball joints on both sides, tie rod ends, and some other bar needed replaced. About $2000 worth of stuff. I am pretty sure I can get a better price on it somewhere else. Does anyone have a good line on that kind of parts?
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Levittown. PA, USA
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Most of the stuff you can get at a local parts house and replace in your driveway with regular hand tools. The balljoints on the other hand are a bit of a battle. You are a 99 like me so I did mine in the driveway at home - so can you.
Remove wheels, stands under the axel of course, remove BF nut in center of hub that holds axel to hub. Then "loosen" the 4, 12 point bolts on the back side of the knuckle, wedge/place a socket and short (3 - 4") extension between one of the back side bolts and the axel or frame. Use the steering as your press by turning the steering wheel to "pop" loose the hub. Once hub is out of way, loosen the bj nuts almost all the way off, if you don't have a big enough fork beat the living bejiminies out of the ball joints until the knuckle come free. Then you'll need a bench vice, not no little wimpy 4" Sears special but a 6" will do fine. Get them out - may need a bit of heat to convince them out - a little tank mounted turbo torch unit from homo depot will do fine. As far as the end joints count the turns out of the old part and match them with the turns in on the new parts - that'll be good to get you to the alignment/frame and alignment shop. Once it's all back together get it to an alignment shop - they may have to install degreed wedges/spacers to get it right - ask them if they have these spacers, if they look funny at you - run fast. Find a shop that works on trucks or does frame "and" alignment versus the local tire shop. The other stuff: drag link, rod ends etc are cake walk compared to the bj work. Tru these sites if you can't get parts locally.
http://www.sourceautomotive.biz/steeringsuspension.htm
http://www.partstrain.com/
http://www.rockauto.com/
NAPA Usually has pretty good stuff - the guys @ the closest NAPA to me are frigging dorks though - so I use them as a last resort.
Good luck.
Remove wheels, stands under the axel of course, remove BF nut in center of hub that holds axel to hub. Then "loosen" the 4, 12 point bolts on the back side of the knuckle, wedge/place a socket and short (3 - 4") extension between one of the back side bolts and the axel or frame. Use the steering as your press by turning the steering wheel to "pop" loose the hub. Once hub is out of way, loosen the bj nuts almost all the way off, if you don't have a big enough fork beat the living bejiminies out of the ball joints until the knuckle come free. Then you'll need a bench vice, not no little wimpy 4" Sears special but a 6" will do fine. Get them out - may need a bit of heat to convince them out - a little tank mounted turbo torch unit from homo depot will do fine. As far as the end joints count the turns out of the old part and match them with the turns in on the new parts - that'll be good to get you to the alignment/frame and alignment shop. Once it's all back together get it to an alignment shop - they may have to install degreed wedges/spacers to get it right - ask them if they have these spacers, if they look funny at you - run fast. Find a shop that works on trucks or does frame "and" alignment versus the local tire shop. The other stuff: drag link, rod ends etc are cake walk compared to the bj work. Tru these sites if you can't get parts locally.
http://www.sourceautomotive.biz/steeringsuspension.htm
http://www.partstrain.com/
http://www.rockauto.com/
NAPA Usually has pretty good stuff - the guys @ the closest NAPA to me are frigging dorks though - so I use them as a last resort.
Good luck.
#3
Registered User
I have a tie-rod off a 98-99 2500 4x4 brand new at my house.
got it from a friend, who bought it from a dealership for his truck.
but he ended up not using it and sold it to me.
I thought i was getting a 98 12v at the time, but i didnt.
so i have no use for it. never installed, still in box.
$100 bucks shipped if your intrested...
I paid $75 for it. im sure it will be $10-$25 to ship it.
pm me if you want it or if anyone wants it.
oh yea its a mopar/oem part.
got it from a friend, who bought it from a dealership for his truck.
but he ended up not using it and sold it to me.
I thought i was getting a 98 12v at the time, but i didnt.
so i have no use for it. never installed, still in box.
$100 bucks shipped if your intrested...
I paid $75 for it. im sure it will be $10-$25 to ship it.
pm me if you want it or if anyone wants it.
oh yea its a mopar/oem part.
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