Front end overhaul. Best parts??
#16
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yes the price is very similar, if not cheaper than going with MOOG replacement parts.
to add to the 'T' steering - The Dodge setup drag link connects just inside the knuckle (on the tie rod) on the passenger side. BUT, the Thuren drag link shares the knuckle with the tie rod.
The Thuren setup not only has stronger components, but a stronger design as well.
WHat size wheels do you have?
to add to the 'T' steering - The Dodge setup drag link connects just inside the knuckle (on the tie rod) on the passenger side. BUT, the Thuren drag link shares the knuckle with the tie rod.
The Thuren setup not only has stronger components, but a stronger design as well.
WHat size wheels do you have?
#17
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I am running factory size wheels right now with 265/75/R16 tires for the winter.
This summer i plan on buying a set of rims and tires for the truck. staying with 16in rim but will run 35s
I can see the thuren is a better design and i will prolly go with this but i read i have to drill some holes out to 3/4in and i will not be able to return it to the factory compents.
This summer i plan on buying a set of rims and tires for the truck. staying with 16in rim but will run 35s
I can see the thuren is a better design and i will prolly go with this but i read i have to drill some holes out to 3/4in and i will not be able to return it to the factory compents.
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i was fearful of not being able to return to stock components too at first. but then i thought why would i ever go back to stock? I wouldn't. Then i thought so what if something wears out - all there is to wear out are heim joints which easily thread into the ends of the bars.
you may have to call him to confirm that 16" wheels will work with the setup . . .
also, 16" wheels may be an issue with the stock 'T' style conversion (grinding some components may be necessary)
you may have to call him to confirm that 16" wheels will work with the setup . . .
also, 16" wheels may be an issue with the stock 'T' style conversion (grinding some components may be necessary)
#19
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I see were you are coming from. Are u running thuren setup?? I see by your sig your running a 3rd gen track bar.
Could someone post a pic there truck with the a thuren HD steering setup and there comments on it?
Could someone post a pic there truck with the a thuren HD steering setup and there comments on it?
#20
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i am not running any of his products right now. but when my steering components wear out i will definitely be converting to his HD steering setup. i have yet to hear one bad thing about it.
this is a link to recent thread on the product:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...huren+steering
this is a link to recent thread on the product:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...huren+steering
#21
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Thank you very much sir!!!!! you have been greatly heplfull!!!
I will deff be doing the HD converstion, MOOG ball joints and if fund allow a free spin kit.
Cant thank you enough for all the info!
Regards,
-Mike
I will deff be doing the HD converstion, MOOG ball joints and if fund allow a free spin kit.
Cant thank you enough for all the info!
Regards,
-Mike
#22
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no problem. call don thuren and talk to him directly or just email him. tell him all about your truck/needs. he will set you up right, and if his product isn't right for you - he won't push it on you. again, i have never dealt with him directly - just what i have heard and seen on the forums here.
#23
for clarity:
inverted Y: where the drag link attaches to the passenger style knuckle and the existing tie rod attaches to the drag link.
inverted T: tie rod goes from knuckle to knuckle, the drag link attaches to the tie rod
cross over: the drag link and tie rod are two different parts all together. both attach to the knuckle but never to each other.
IMHO, if i were to spend over $1k, and using a 94-99 axle i would use:
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...uter-Knuckles-
with
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...-Steering-Arms
and GM outers, which can be found relatively cheap. i would most likely ream the arms to accept 1-ton GM TRE's, DOM tubing and bungs from ballistc(etc), and NEVER have to touch the front axle again.
#24
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i stand corrected on the crossover and 'T' style stuff . . .
the products you linked Tyler - are those to be used in conjunction with a setup such as Thurens? tough to tell from the pics exactly what would be replaced and wjat would remain stock (or upgraded) components . . .
the products you linked Tyler - are those to be used in conjunction with a setup such as Thurens? tough to tell from the pics exactly what would be replaced and wjat would remain stock (or upgraded) components . . .
#25
i stand corrected on the crossover and 'T' style stuff . . .
the products you linked Tyler - are those to be used in conjunction with a setup such as Thurens? tough to tell from the pics exactly what would be replaced and wjat would remain stock (or upgraded) components . . .
the products you linked Tyler - are those to be used in conjunction with a setup such as Thurens? tough to tell from the pics exactly what would be replaced and wjat would remain stock (or upgraded) components . . .
it would be the aftermarket knuckles from Solid. then you would use the spindles, hubs, brakes, lock-outs, and stub shafts from a GM D60 axle. and the steering of your choice. considering the knuckles are $500 + $500 in GM parts, thats alot cheaper than any kit i know of. There are cheaper ways to do it also.
If you wanted to, you could run full hi-steer like i posted, but that wouldnt be needed on a street truck.
#27
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ok i looked up some info on hi steer. and as you said - no real benefit in a street truck - especially a truck without front leaf suspension. seems like the benefits of hi steer are to physically raise the components (drag link/tierod) to keep them out of harms way, and also to help eliminate bump-steer in front leaf sprung suspensions . . .
no real 'justifiable benefit' in a coil spring front end truck which doesn't rock crawl . . .
no real 'justifiable benefit' in a coil spring front end truck which doesn't rock crawl . . .
#28
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from the link posted; thuren is NOT a inverted T style steering. it is full cross over.
for clarity:
inverted Y: where the drag link attaches to the passenger style knuckle and the existing tie rod attaches to the drag link.
inverted T: tie rod goes from knuckle to knuckle, the drag link attaches to the tie rod
cross over: the drag link and tie rod are two different parts all together. both attach to the knuckle but never to each other.
IMHO, if i were to spend over $1k, and using a 94-99 axle i would use:
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...uter-Knuckles-
with
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...-Steering-Arms
and GM outers, which can be found relatively cheap. i would most likely ream the arms to accept 1-ton GM TRE's, DOM tubing and bungs from ballistc(etc), and NEVER have to touch the front axle again.
for clarity:
inverted Y: where the drag link attaches to the passenger style knuckle and the existing tie rod attaches to the drag link.
inverted T: tie rod goes from knuckle to knuckle, the drag link attaches to the tie rod
cross over: the drag link and tie rod are two different parts all together. both attach to the knuckle but never to each other.
IMHO, if i were to spend over $1k, and using a 94-99 axle i would use:
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...uter-Knuckles-
with
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...-Steering-Arms
and GM outers, which can be found relatively cheap. i would most likely ream the arms to accept 1-ton GM TRE's, DOM tubing and bungs from ballistc(etc), and NEVER have to touch the front axle again.
as far as the new knuckles and gm outers go it is more expensive.
$485.00 per knuckle
$325.00 for the arms
Ur at 1300.00 for just the knuckles and arms. still need the outers bearings brakes balljoints.
I would really like to do a free spin kit but i dont think the funds will allow. I have seen others do there own by machining ford hubs and knuckles. But dont really want to dick around on the lathe with them.
I know there is no real "justifiable reason" to run hi steer on a street truck/farm truck. but thuren does seem like the way to go as far as steerings goes. Considering that coverting my front end to inverted "T" is almost the same cost.
#29
I just put the 3rd gen conversion from DSS with there track bar and bushings.
The track bar was 250..
the bracket and Hardware 185.00
Took 2 hours and I am a crappy mechanic at best, Results were outstanding, this weekend the steering box stabilizer goes in.
The track bar was 250..
the bracket and Hardware 185.00
Took 2 hours and I am a crappy mechanic at best, Results were outstanding, this weekend the steering box stabilizer goes in.
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