Energy Suspension/Prothane
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Energy Suspension/Prothane
Has anyone installed the whole bushing kit body, leaf, control arm, sway, end link and noticed a difference? I was thinking of doing the sway, end link and control arm bushings and was wondering if the body and leaf bushing make any difference in handling.
Thanks
John
Thanks
John
#2
Registered User
I installed all new control arm bushings/sleeves for skyjacker lift system. One of the bushing sleeves and bushing was cracked thus allowing movement of the axle and preventing alignment. Pretty easy process by just doing one at a time, a couple of hours. If your replacing factory just know other brands may/maynot fit. I know factory control arm bushigs wont fit in skyjacker control arms.
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ordered to Elizabeth City NC. rather be back in north Idaho
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got the control arm bushing set, but I can't get it in because the control arm bolts are siezed inside the metal sleaves of the old rubber bushings, so I gotta buy new bolts from dodge since I'm going to have to cut the old bolts out just to get the control arms out
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Hunt Valley, MD
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, I had to cut mine out too. Get ready to kiss $75 goodbye to Dodge because you can't get them anywhere else.
The bushing seem to be better. I have replaced everything in the front end at this point, so the truck is pretty tight, but the bushing are good. I never did the body mounts though.
In hindsight, I should have gotten a leveling kit and then just bought new arms. So, just something to think about...
- Craig
The bushing seem to be better. I have replaced everything in the front end at this point, so the truck is pretty tight, but the bushing are good. I never did the body mounts though.
In hindsight, I should have gotten a leveling kit and then just bought new arms. So, just something to think about...
- Craig
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ordered to Elizabeth City NC. rather be back in north Idaho
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You know (just rambling) that Land Rover in my sig and avatar, I had that thing for 4 years, put 4 inches of lift on it, constantly swapped back and forth between 31" ATs and 34" LTBs, drove it on two cross country trips, used it as a daily driver to work, bombed down every mud track and craggy mountain goat path I could find, consistently got it stuck and had to winch out or be yanked out, and I never once had to get it aligned. The one time I took it in (after I'd been pulled out of a gully so hard it blew out the bead on one of the front tires) and the guy didn't have to do anything to it, alignment was fine!
Ed
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Hunt Valley, MD
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well you need the bolts regardless of the arms. So kiss the $75 goodbye. My thoughts are that the control arms are flimsy and replacing the bushings was a pain in the ****. I would have been very content to pull the old arms out, throw them away, and install some after-market arms. The leveling kit is in my plans, so it would have made sense to do this all at once.I don't necessarily think that 2 inches will put you out of the caster adjustment range.
All these trucks have their issue, but come on man, you don't want to go to the dark side with a ferd!! hahaha
All these trucks have their issue, but come on man, you don't want to go to the dark side with a ferd!! hahaha
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ordered to Elizabeth City NC. rather be back in north Idaho
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ed
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ordered to Elizabeth City NC. rather be back in north Idaho
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well just ordered the bolts. I believe it was about $64 from our local dodge dealerden. Just one more question for you guys who've done this...my problem is the the forward bolt on the lower control arms, and the rear bolt on the upper control arms. These dudes will NOT budge. It's gonna be pretty easy to cut the forward lower bolts...both sides of it have plenty of room for the angle grinder. However, how do you get the rear upper bolts??? There's some room to get to the thread side of the bolt, but the head is recessed inside the chassis! How am I supposed to get to that guy? Or is he gonna just require a whole heck of a lot of pounding?
Thanks!
Ed
Thanks!
Ed
#11
You "may" get it out with a hammer and punch....That did not work on my truck.I used a air punch and a lot of wd-40.Kept working the bolt till it came out...You will have to replace the bolt.I think it was a grade 10 bolt...Also grind the bolt head off and use the air punch on which ever side it is easier to get at...This was the only way to get mine out....Even a 10lb hammer and punch would not move that bolt...hope that helps...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Astro
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
3
03-30-2010 09:41 PM
Captain
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
4
10-30-2008 08:46 PM