Drives like a snake on a treadmill
12-18-2007, 04:10 PM
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Drives like a snake on a treadmill
I was worried about this when i first got the truck as my cousin had to redo the front end in his 01 many times, and now after owning my truck for about 2 months, i see why. Just want to make sure it is what i think it is before i go throwing money at it, the truck seems to pull side to side when driving straight down the highway and has lots of play in the steering now ( almost 1/8 turn ) and it kind of vibrates under my left foot if i go over some bumps like the frame is vibrating against the cab or something. It also makes lots of noise when i go over things like train tracks, kinda sounds like the box is loose, i was wondering if anyone can tell me exactly what i need to start replacing to get to the root of the problems.
As im pretty new to the truck and the 2nd gen dodge world completely, any help at all or any direction as to what to replace first would be great, and any places to get the cheapest parts would be really helpfull as money is tight this time of year.
Thanks in advance, Fred
As im pretty new to the truck and the 2nd gen dodge world completely, any help at all or any direction as to what to replace first would be great, and any places to get the cheapest parts would be really helpfull as money is tight this time of year.
Thanks in advance, Fred
12-18-2007, 05:15 PM
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Jack it up and start wiggling and shaking things, pushing, prodding, etc..
Sasiest way to figure out whats bad. The clunking could be worn shock bolts and/or bushings in the end of the shocks.
Sasiest way to figure out whats bad. The clunking could be worn shock bolts and/or bushings in the end of the shocks.
12-18-2007, 05:54 PM
#3
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Sounds like what mine was doing. I replaced everything but the steering stabilizer and upgraded the trac bar. I got Moog ball joints and tie rod ends and new shocks. It wasn't cheap...anytime of the year, but I figured if I spent an extra 100 bucks on a rebuildable trac bar I'd be way ahead. After all this it drives way better and my tires quit cupping and wearing weird. I could've found other places for the 1500 bucks, but after getting it all fixed it was worth every penny considering how much better it drives.
Hopefully you won't need a new steering box. Don't mess with trying to adjust it as you'll make it worse or possibly ruin it. I thought mine was bad but found out it was everything else and the box was fine.
To check: Jack up the front of the truck and get a rock bar or 2x6 and have a buddy lever it up and down under one of the front tires and watch to see what all is moving/sloppy/loose. It should be pretty obvious. Usually the trac bar starts to go and everything else starts to try to keep it straight and eventually wears from all the stresses that the trac bar should keep in check. Changing out one or two parts at a time just starts premature wear on the new parts til evrything else is replaced and you are already on your way to needing more new parts. Do it once, do it right and you'll be golden. Kurt
Hopefully you won't need a new steering box. Don't mess with trying to adjust it as you'll make it worse or possibly ruin it. I thought mine was bad but found out it was everything else and the box was fine.
To check: Jack up the front of the truck and get a rock bar or 2x6 and have a buddy lever it up and down under one of the front tires and watch to see what all is moving/sloppy/loose. It should be pretty obvious. Usually the trac bar starts to go and everything else starts to try to keep it straight and eventually wears from all the stresses that the trac bar should keep in check. Changing out one or two parts at a time just starts premature wear on the new parts til evrything else is replaced and you are already on your way to needing more new parts. Do it once, do it right and you'll be golden. Kurt
12-18-2007, 07:42 PM
#4
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hi
if you like the truck and want to keep it get a SSI bracket and a 03 up track bar .
app 200.00 bracket 100.00 good used trackbar , but well worth it !
all wander GONE!
if i get another 2nd gen it will be the first thing i do to it !
my truck drives like a dream !
and i had to replace the seals on the stear box input shaft and yes you CAN adjust the box without screwing it up !
just do it in the correct order and it works great !
first free tip set your air psi app 68 lb front 64 rear no load tires , you do have e rated tires dont you !
loose woren/bottom shock bolts can cause noises !
check all your u jouints also !
check front wheel bearings for slop .
check tie rod ends .
if you like the truck and want to keep it get a SSI bracket and a 03 up track bar .
app 200.00 bracket 100.00 good used trackbar , but well worth it !
all wander GONE!
if i get another 2nd gen it will be the first thing i do to it !
my truck drives like a dream !
and i had to replace the seals on the stear box input shaft and yes you CAN adjust the box without screwing it up !
just do it in the correct order and it works great !
first free tip set your air psi app 68 lb front 64 rear no load tires , you do have e rated tires dont you !
loose woren/bottom shock bolts can cause noises !
check all your u jouints also !
check front wheel bearings for slop .
check tie rod ends .
12-19-2007, 08:56 AM
#5
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I'd start out with the simple stuff- engine off, wheels on the ground, turn steering wheel left to right- if you've got much play it looks like steering box or tie rod assembly. balljoints. Get under truck and have helper agitate steering wheel and look for joints moving. If none or only a little play, start engine and let hepler agitate wheel 90 deg each direction and look at the upper end of the track bar. Normally you see a lot of play there (and there should be none.)
You can test by simply having your hand on the joint while the helper is moving the wheel, but take care that you don't get caught between some parts esp. with the engine running.
AlpineRAM
You can test by simply having your hand on the joint while the helper is moving the wheel, but take care that you don't get caught between some parts esp. with the engine running.
AlpineRAM
Last edited by AlpineRAM; 12-19-2007 at 08:57 AM. Reason: The board does not like me to abbreviate the word "assembly" :)
12-19-2007, 02:19 PM
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I have this problem on my 99...a lot of steering play I have only replaced the steering stabilizer now. I see worn tie rod plus stabilizer/sway bar/link bushings worn out.. The Drag Link moves a lot up and down, is this correct??
12-19-2007, 03:51 PM
#7
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All the joints in there should be tight- no perceivable play when the steering wheel is moved.
The track bar is also very important. A lose track bar can lead to the so called death wobble. If you look at the geometry of the axle it's quite logical. You turn your steering wheel to the right- the tie rod is pushed to the right, the wheels turn and the axle gets pulled to the right. Now if there is play in the track bar the axle moves to the right in relation to the vehicle and the wheels actually start pointing left- axle goes to the left, wheels get turned to the right etc. Wobble.
Personally I had good success with Luke's links. But they won't work if the pan that the ball of the joint rests in is worn out, so they do help if you catch it quick enough and they will make the joints last a long time. But if the joints are gone they are gone.
The sway bar bushings being worn out are more a nuisance than an actual threat, but with the high center of gravity on the 4x4s you don't want the sway bar links to separate or break, especially while cornering. So a repair is advisable.
HTH
AlpineRAM
The track bar is also very important. A lose track bar can lead to the so called death wobble. If you look at the geometry of the axle it's quite logical. You turn your steering wheel to the right- the tie rod is pushed to the right, the wheels turn and the axle gets pulled to the right. Now if there is play in the track bar the axle moves to the right in relation to the vehicle and the wheels actually start pointing left- axle goes to the left, wheels get turned to the right etc. Wobble.
Personally I had good success with Luke's links. But they won't work if the pan that the ball of the joint rests in is worn out, so they do help if you catch it quick enough and they will make the joints last a long time. But if the joints are gone they are gone.
The sway bar bushings being worn out are more a nuisance than an actual threat, but with the high center of gravity on the 4x4s you don't want the sway bar links to separate or break, especially while cornering. So a repair is advisable.
HTH
AlpineRAM
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12-21-2007, 12:18 AM
#8
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hi
if you like the truck and want to keep it get a SSI bracket and a 03 up track bar .
app 200.00 bracket 100.00 good used trackbar , but well worth it !
all wander GONE!
if i get another 2nd gen it will be the first thing i do to it !
my truck drives like a dream !
and i had to replace the seals on the stear box input shaft and yes you CAN adjust the box without screwing it up !
just do it in the correct order and it works great !
first free tip set your air psi app 68 lb front 64 rear no load tires , you do have e rated tires dont you !
loose woren/bottom shock bolts can cause noises !
check all your u jouints also !
check front wheel bearings for slop .
check tie rod ends .
if you like the truck and want to keep it get a SSI bracket and a 03 up track bar .
app 200.00 bracket 100.00 good used trackbar , but well worth it !
all wander GONE!
if i get another 2nd gen it will be the first thing i do to it !
my truck drives like a dream !
and i had to replace the seals on the stear box input shaft and yes you CAN adjust the box without screwing it up !
just do it in the correct order and it works great !
first free tip set your air psi app 68 lb front 64 rear no load tires , you do have e rated tires dont you !
loose woren/bottom shock bolts can cause noises !
check all your u jouints also !
check front wheel bearings for slop .
check tie rod ends .
thanks
12-21-2007, 01:17 AM
#9
Registered User
hi
it is easyest to adj the box when it is off the truck .
1 ST.
remove the large stamped metal lock ring at the stearing input shaft , it actualy has corners that you can tap with a punch to remove .
< 2nd if the box is tight like you say loosen the nut on top of the sector gear and back out the adj allen screw 1 turn !>
go back to the input adjuster and turn your stearing box shaft so it is centered between all the way right or left ! app 2 turns !
turn the adjuster ,stearing input. in till it is aginst the bearing and no play !
snug not high preasure !
now back it off 3/8 of an inch and mark it .
reinstall the lock ring and make sure the adjuster does not move !!
make sure the stearing travel is still in the middle , same as wheels straight ahead ,!
back the nut out to loosen the allen screw on the sector shaft and make sure the nut does not touch the box .
turn the allen screw in till it stops , you should have no in / out play in the sector shaft .
back the screw out 1/3 - 1/2 turn and hold it while locking the nut !
YOU DONE !
reinstall the box , test drive the truck .
the stearing input adj must be done 1st or the sector shat adj will not be correct .
now if the stearing is too tight or to loose simply loosen the allen sector locknut and adjust another 1/4 turn looser to free it up or tighter to stiffin it . this is done with box in stalled !
ps low fluid causes foam which may make it hard to stear , or a week pump could cause a hard stear condition !
it is easyest to adj the box when it is off the truck .
1 ST.
remove the large stamped metal lock ring at the stearing input shaft , it actualy has corners that you can tap with a punch to remove .
< 2nd if the box is tight like you say loosen the nut on top of the sector gear and back out the adj allen screw 1 turn !>
go back to the input adjuster and turn your stearing box shaft so it is centered between all the way right or left ! app 2 turns !
turn the adjuster ,stearing input. in till it is aginst the bearing and no play !
snug not high preasure !
now back it off 3/8 of an inch and mark it .
reinstall the lock ring and make sure the adjuster does not move !!
make sure the stearing travel is still in the middle , same as wheels straight ahead ,!
back the nut out to loosen the allen screw on the sector shaft and make sure the nut does not touch the box .
turn the allen screw in till it stops , you should have no in / out play in the sector shaft .
back the screw out 1/3 - 1/2 turn and hold it while locking the nut !
YOU DONE !
reinstall the box , test drive the truck .
the stearing input adj must be done 1st or the sector shat adj will not be correct .
now if the stearing is too tight or to loose simply loosen the allen sector locknut and adjust another 1/4 turn looser to free it up or tighter to stiffin it . this is done with box in stalled !
ps low fluid causes foam which may make it hard to stear , or a week pump could cause a hard stear condition !
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