Crank Case Vent
10-17-2008, 12:10 PM
#16
I'm designing my own relocation kit. My plans are to run the breather hose (without the puke bottle) to an external remote oil filter (mounting location pending). I then will run a line from the other port of the remote filter base up into the engine compartment with a small crankcasae air filter connected.
Or maybe have a return line from the remote filter base with a checkvalve inline routing back into the engine via the orig. crankcase vent.
Or maybe have a return line from the remote filter base with a checkvalve inline routing back into the engine via the orig. crankcase vent.
10-17-2008, 06:01 PM
#17
Registered User
be forewarned, you cannot have any restrictions in your system. or you will develop oil leaks....... i know 
.
i had a setup to put the crankcase vent into the exhaust, it worked well untill the oil leaks developed.
it turns out the check valve i installed created enough back pressure to build up pressure in the crankcase causing oil leaks.(i don't use it any more)if any body would like pics of my unused system, let me know
.i had a setup to put the crankcase vent into the exhaust, it worked well untill the oil leaks developed.
it turns out the check valve i installed created enough back pressure to build up pressure in the crankcase causing oil leaks.(i don't use it any more)if any body would like pics of my unused system, let me know
10-18-2008, 12:35 PM
#18
be forewarned, you cannot have any restrictions in your system. or you will develop oil leaks....... i know .
i had a setup to put the crankcase vent into the exhaust, it worked well untill the oil leaks developed.
it turns out the check valve i installed created enough back pressure to build up pressure in the crankcase causing oil leaks.(i don't use it any more)if any body would like pics of my unused system, let me know
.i had a setup to put the crankcase vent into the exhaust, it worked well untill the oil leaks developed.
it turns out the check valve i installed created enough back pressure to build up pressure in the crankcase causing oil leaks.(i don't use it any more)if any body would like pics of my unused system, let me know
John, thanks for the advice. I'll take note of the check valve advice.
10-21-2008, 07:21 PM
#20
Registered User
10-22-2008, 12:29 PM
#22
Registered User
there isn't very much oil coming out, a drop or two ..... i removed mine at the second oil change ... i would guess 90% of dodge owners on this site don't have a "puke" bottle
.but you have to be sure to extend the hose, i have mine extended to about the middle of the fuel tank along the inside of the frame
10-22-2008, 05:04 PM
#24
Registered User
the advantage for me is i don't even think about the vent much less dumping the bottle every oil change
10-22-2008, 06:11 PM
#25
Registered User
I saw no need to run hose anywhere and just added about a foot of extra hose to the stock blowby, paint the pavement, not the bottom of the truck.
I used 3/4" ID hose and just slipped it over the stock hose, no clamp, my thought being it could get pulled off easily if caught on something.
13 years later and it's still hanging there about 4" off the ground.
10-22-2008, 11:17 PM
#26
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I looked at a BBBeutiful 01 with 100k on the clock ,but the old guy that had it plugged it with a pvc cap ,and was complainig about this d*** leakin SCUNNINS i just said thanks and drove off
10-23-2008, 12:01 AM
#27
Registered User
gee, i wonder why it was leaking
10-23-2008, 10:56 AM
#28
Registered User
When a lot of folks used to use the jig method of fixing the KDP on 12 valves blown seals all over the place were quite a problem for folks who couldn't follow instructions.
Using the jig involved involved drilling and tapping a hole in the side of the timing case for a bolt to thread in that would prevent the dowel pin from dropping out. In order to keep chips from falling into the engine it was best to pressurize the crankcase a little bit so chips would blow out. Even hooking a vacuum cleaner on blow to the oil fill or blowby tube was more than enough.
But some folks seemed to know it all and skipped the instructions, hooking up a shop compressor turned up full blast to the blowby tube.
What a mess, almost every gasket on the engine blown in less than a second.
Some of them are lot of work to replace.
Of course they mostly would blame it on someone else...
Using the jig involved involved drilling and tapping a hole in the side of the timing case for a bolt to thread in that would prevent the dowel pin from dropping out. In order to keep chips from falling into the engine it was best to pressurize the crankcase a little bit so chips would blow out. Even hooking a vacuum cleaner on blow to the oil fill or blowby tube was more than enough.
But some folks seemed to know it all and skipped the instructions, hooking up a shop compressor turned up full blast to the blowby tube.
What a mess, almost every gasket on the engine blown in less than a second.
Some of them are lot of work to replace.
Of course they mostly would blame it on someone else...
10-23-2008, 11:04 AM
#29
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my relocation kit was free ...
just put a piece of 3/4" hose to a T ...
ran the ends into the front fenders ...
nice and oily ... not rust
and a wiff of smoke around the headlights at night makes the truck look like it's a fire breathing monster ...
been that way for 5 years and 80k miles
just put a piece of 3/4" hose to a T ...
ran the ends into the front fenders ...
nice and oily ... not rust
and a wiff of smoke around the headlights at night makes the truck look like it's a fire breathing monster ...
been that way for 5 years and 80k miles
10-23-2008, 12:29 PM
#30
Registered User