Cold Weather coming...new to diesel
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Middle of the Rockies, Co
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cold Weather coming...new to diesel
Hi, just bought a 2002 Dodge diesel 4x4 2500. Thought it would be a great truck for my job, but i have never owned a diesel. Always admired them though. I have been trying to educate myself on the internet and found out some problems are going to be hitting me pretty soon with winter and extremely cold weather (not getting above zero for weeks at a time and hitting -50 some). Found out diesels really do not like the cold. So looks like i need a serious crash course in Diesel 101. I came across ya'll site. (Great info!) and thought ya'll might be able to direct me in the right direction. I really love the truck and would like to make it work this winter. I will be commuting back and forth across the mountains weekly and winter camping 3-4 days a week in my slide in camper. I originally came from Texas where nothing freezes. Boy, what an enlightening experience these Colorado winters are. But i love them. So does anyone know where i can start?
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
Posts: 2,738
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Some will suggest getting friendly with a kerosene pump. It lowers the gel point, or you can add plenty of your favorite additive such as PS or Lucas. I am not sure how much you need, but remember the fuel companies add to the fuels so they can pump out of truck and fuel pump.
Synthetic oils are generally recomended, such as 5-40 or even 0-40.
Get friendly with the plug in heater cable on right side of grille.
Many put a sheet of insulation(or cardboard) partially covering radiator.
Expect the tranny to not shift normal when cold. Delays shifts till fluid gets to 80 degrees or so. Intake heaters will cycle on/off and cause voltmeter to dip noticablly and lights also dim while heaters are in operation.
Make sure antifreeze is strong enough. Make sure pure W/S solevent is winter grade.
Synthetic oils are generally recomended, such as 5-40 or even 0-40.
Get friendly with the plug in heater cable on right side of grille.
Many put a sheet of insulation(or cardboard) partially covering radiator.
Expect the tranny to not shift normal when cold. Delays shifts till fluid gets to 80 degrees or so. Intake heaters will cycle on/off and cause voltmeter to dip noticablly and lights also dim while heaters are in operation.
Make sure antifreeze is strong enough. Make sure pure W/S solevent is winter grade.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Middle of the Rockies, Co
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, Sounds like some good information. Nothing teaches you better than experience itself. So i guess I'll be learning alot real soon.
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northwest, Minnesota USA
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Welcome to diesel & DTR
Nice pun.
I'm going to re state some of dozer's reply so bear with me.
Actual air temperature and wind chill are different. Your engine only sees actual air temp. Wind chill just gets it there faster.
Use the block heater when air temperature is 32°F & lower.
Good batteries are an absolute top requirement. Get them tested so you know. Clean the connections, too. (Even if they don't look corroded.)
Synthetic 5W-30 or 5W-40 engine oil. Use only diesel (CJ-4 or CI-4) engine oil. Gas engine oil is not good.
Anitfreeze must be good for -40°F.
Flush your power steering system and top off with Lubeguard PS additive. It stops the cold weather squeal.
Find a station that sells blended #1 & #2 fuel and use LOTS of anti-gel additive. You will read lots of post of people that use straight #2 in the winter, but you need a couple winters to learn about your truck and the local fuel supply before this.
Drain the fuel filter everytime you fill the tank. Change the fuel filter soon and carry a spare.
The "wait to start" lights means just that. The grid heaters need to cycle before starting.
The headlights will dim when the grid heaters cycle after you start and idle the truck. It goes away after you start driving but comes back at stop sign/lights.
Your truck may have the cold weather program in the ECM/PCM. It may fast idle or even drop 3 cyclinders to warm the engine faster.
Block the 4 holes in your grill. I used scrap paneling for a couple years.
I forgot about the windshield washer tank. Good point dozer. I buy the yellow Prestone winter. It is the only fluid that has not frozen on me, but I see very severe winter conditions. Only a dollar more than the regular blue juice, too.
If you have an auto, put it in neutral and set the parking brake when you idle. A diesel should idle for a few minutes before you drive. Driving on a cold engine is the same as a gas engine. Keep it easy until it starts warming up.
Camper?
Don't use the truck batteries for your camper. You need all the juice for starting. A 1k gen will run your furnace and the block heater (not at the same time) for the winter outing.
Nice pun.
I'm going to re state some of dozer's reply so bear with me.
Actual air temperature and wind chill are different. Your engine only sees actual air temp. Wind chill just gets it there faster.
Use the block heater when air temperature is 32°F & lower.
Good batteries are an absolute top requirement. Get them tested so you know. Clean the connections, too. (Even if they don't look corroded.)
Synthetic 5W-30 or 5W-40 engine oil. Use only diesel (CJ-4 or CI-4) engine oil. Gas engine oil is not good.
Anitfreeze must be good for -40°F.
Flush your power steering system and top off with Lubeguard PS additive. It stops the cold weather squeal.
Find a station that sells blended #1 & #2 fuel and use LOTS of anti-gel additive. You will read lots of post of people that use straight #2 in the winter, but you need a couple winters to learn about your truck and the local fuel supply before this.
Drain the fuel filter everytime you fill the tank. Change the fuel filter soon and carry a spare.
The "wait to start" lights means just that. The grid heaters need to cycle before starting.
The headlights will dim when the grid heaters cycle after you start and idle the truck. It goes away after you start driving but comes back at stop sign/lights.
Your truck may have the cold weather program in the ECM/PCM. It may fast idle or even drop 3 cyclinders to warm the engine faster.
Block the 4 holes in your grill. I used scrap paneling for a couple years.
I forgot about the windshield washer tank. Good point dozer. I buy the yellow Prestone winter. It is the only fluid that has not frozen on me, but I see very severe winter conditions. Only a dollar more than the regular blue juice, too.
If you have an auto, put it in neutral and set the parking brake when you idle. A diesel should idle for a few minutes before you drive. Driving on a cold engine is the same as a gas engine. Keep it easy until it starts warming up.
Camper?
Don't use the truck batteries for your camper. You need all the juice for starting. A 1k gen will run your furnace and the block heater (not at the same time) for the winter outing.
#5
Always a day late, and a dollar short.
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Baker, MT
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've had bad luck with PS in the white bottle. 70/30 blend of #1 and #2 fuel if the station doesn't have it pre-blended w/ 2 cycle oil for lube and a cetane booster for cold starting aid. Speaking of fuel, only go where they sell a lot of it, like major truck stops. Otherwise you carry the chance of crappy fuel, ie.. has mucho water in it. Carry a spare fuel filter just in case along with some PS 911 (red jug).
#6
With age comes the cage
Check out this thread it tells about the diesel fired heaters that you mount on your truck.. No AC needed top keep the truck warm..
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...engine+heaters
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...engine+heaters
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Middle of the Rockies, Co
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys, thanks. I'll ask around the local ranchers for the best place for fuel.
The camper is totally self sufficient with it's own independent winter system, batteries, furnace, generator, etc
The camper is totally self sufficient with it's own independent winter system, batteries, furnace, generator, etc
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are a TON of diesel p/u's running around West Colorado (Rifle area) - I suspect the fuel quality is fine out that way. Not sure where you're at. I run mine all winter in upstate NY without any fuel additives. If you fuel at busy stations which refuel regularly (i.e. those who serve the trucking industry) I doubt you'll ever have a problem. Do check your fluids as advised above, and buy yourself a $20 portable GFI plug-adapter (looks like a short extension cord with a GFI on one end) to throw on the end of your truck's plug (my buddy gave himself a nice shock last winter - went out and bought a GFI adapter the same day!). Also, the block heater plug will rust quickly if you don't keep it covered when not in use. Closing-off your grill is a great idea too - takes forever to warm-up in the winter!
#9
Registered User
Most places that have real Winter, (unlike Victoria!) the fuel wholesalers provide a "Winter blend" to their stations as a matter of course. The diesel is cut with jet fuel which is essentially high grade kerosene. I talked about it with a plant operator at a Chevron refinery I was working at.
Randy.
Randy.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good batteries go a long way to easy starting. Its been 11F here for the last week, and the truck hasn't started in that long. I cycled the grid heater twice and it started right up. Other than that, I really don't do anything special.
#11
Registered User
jmcmoody you should be fine with just plugging it in at night.
There should be a plug up either under the hood by the turbo, or in the front bumper around the same area.
x2
I don't plug it in normally... haven't yet this year.
Once it starts getting colder at night around here, I try to plug it in whenever I remember... If I forget, it still starts, just a little bumpy
24v's are a different beast though.
I'd say just plug it in at night and you'll be fine.
The fuel in your area should be blended to match the weather conditions and not freeze. I never use fuel additive. I did once, when I first got the truck and went on a trip to the Upper Peninsula of MI. It was un-necessary though.
There should be a plug up either under the hood by the turbo, or in the front bumper around the same area.
I don't plug it in normally... haven't yet this year.
Once it starts getting colder at night around here, I try to plug it in whenever I remember... If I forget, it still starts, just a little bumpy
24v's are a different beast though.
I'd say just plug it in at night and you'll be fine.
The fuel in your area should be blended to match the weather conditions and not freeze. I never use fuel additive. I did once, when I first got the truck and went on a trip to the Upper Peninsula of MI. It was un-necessary though.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ollie32
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
3
07-16-2009 05:02 PM
joel
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
3
01-22-2005 08:59 PM
RoadDawg
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
8
12-05-2003 01:31 PM