Coating frame, por 15 vs. Zero rust
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
Coating frame, por 15 vs. Zero rust
I have been researching the best product for coating my frame. I have found that alot of guys are saying that POR15 is old technology. That it gets so hard, that if it chips moisture can get behind it & actually hold moisture in. I guess this zero rust is suppose to be better & won't peel/crack off. Ever use zero rust? It is about 1/3 cheaper too.
http://www.zerorust.com/tech.htm
http://www.zerorust.com/tech.htm
#2
Banned
Thread Starter
Here are some quotes from guys who've used both.
"You would be MUCH better off using Zero Rust than POR15. We used POR for 15 years before we discovered ZR and once we tried ZR we never went back. The POR gets hard and cracks allowing moisture to get between it and the metal which causes more problems than it cures. The ZR can chip or get scratched but moisture can only effect the exposed area right at the scratch because it won't creep under the coating. POR was good when it was the only product on the market but ZR works better and it's less expensive."
"I think the general concensus on this board is that Zero rust is a better product in the long term than Poor por...(pun intended...)
Poor15 becomes very hard and brittle. Its also difficult to repair. In the long run you are much better with zero rust..."
"
trouble with POR is that it is almost TOO hard imo, but when used correctly it holds up OK, but unless you can get all sides of the metal youre painting, chances are it will rust UNDER the POR. zero rust, used in conjuntion with picklex from i understand holds up very well. somewhere on the site len put a picture of something he painted with it that was submersed in ocean water for quite some time, compared to por."
"As far as I'm concerned the "BEST" method for finishing metal is to clean everything down to clean metal then prime and paint. However that's impractical for most surfaces under or inside the car so they are usually treated differently. We used POR-15 for a long time and found it to work ok but after opening it hardens in the can and is difficult to work with. After we used Zero Rust one time we never used POR again. The ZR looks better, is easier to store clean and work with plus it comes in colors and costs less. You can check out a test we did HERE and check out prices HERE."
"You would be MUCH better off using Zero Rust than POR15. We used POR for 15 years before we discovered ZR and once we tried ZR we never went back. The POR gets hard and cracks allowing moisture to get between it and the metal which causes more problems than it cures. The ZR can chip or get scratched but moisture can only effect the exposed area right at the scratch because it won't creep under the coating. POR was good when it was the only product on the market but ZR works better and it's less expensive."
"I think the general concensus on this board is that Zero rust is a better product in the long term than Poor por...(pun intended...)
Poor15 becomes very hard and brittle. Its also difficult to repair. In the long run you are much better with zero rust..."
"
trouble with POR is that it is almost TOO hard imo, but when used correctly it holds up OK, but unless you can get all sides of the metal youre painting, chances are it will rust UNDER the POR. zero rust, used in conjuntion with picklex from i understand holds up very well. somewhere on the site len put a picture of something he painted with it that was submersed in ocean water for quite some time, compared to por."
"As far as I'm concerned the "BEST" method for finishing metal is to clean everything down to clean metal then prime and paint. However that's impractical for most surfaces under or inside the car so they are usually treated differently. We used POR-15 for a long time and found it to work ok but after opening it hardens in the can and is difficult to work with. After we used Zero Rust one time we never used POR again. The ZR looks better, is easier to store clean and work with plus it comes in colors and costs less. You can check out a test we did HERE and check out prices HERE."
#3
Registered User
well.. I redid a complete frame... Sanblasted then coated with por15... Lasted 2 yrs then started peeling off... My brother had the same reuslts....
I Just did another frame and I used stuff from KBS coatings... Seemed to be real nice... Gets hard but not as hard as por.... I was sold becuase their slogan is "Better than Por15" And I am a sucker so thats what I went with... to bad I won't have any results for like a yr or so!! Good luck just stay away from Por!!
I Just did another frame and I used stuff from KBS coatings... Seemed to be real nice... Gets hard but not as hard as por.... I was sold becuase their slogan is "Better than Por15" And I am a sucker so thats what I went with... to bad I won't have any results for like a yr or so!! Good luck just stay away from Por!!
#4
Registered User
I did rusty trunk few years ago with por15, still looks like Ive done it yesterday. Usually when you're having problems with it is when you applied it improperly. Also about harding in a can. What I do is before I close can is put some saran wrap over the hole and then close lid shut. My left over quart or por15 lasted 5 years in garage and is still liquid.
#6
Banned
Thread Starter
Placed my order, got 3 gallons of Zero Rust coming my way...can't beat the price either $52.50/gallon compared to $130. for POR 15 or $90 for Chassis saver.
Trending Topics
#9
Banned
Thread Starter
I started wire wheeling the frame today., I got the passenger side about done [outside only]. I figured that since I can't paint in this weather, I'll do some fun stuff. Atleast it will be ready.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
5 Posts
Wire Wheel? You jest! Step up to the newer tech: Bristle discs, Roloc discs, or the Scotch-brite stripping wheels are all waaaay better than anything with wires on it.
Much safer, too-- you know picking broken wires out of your skin is no fun.
jmo
Much safer, too-- you know picking broken wires out of your skin is no fun.
jmo
#11
Banned
Thread Starter
I haven't painted a vehicle since 2000, the technology has changed a little....I guess.
#13
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Omaha, AR
Posts: 4,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
por 15 SUCKS. do not put it on shiney metal. it stands for Paint Over Rust. it WILL peel off of sandblasted, sanded, or clean metal. also, the por15 that i bought was not uv safe. and being as how i put it on a frame also, i thought it wouldnt matter. however it still faded and peeled.
If i were you, or to do my project over again (which i did) i would (did) use an epoxy primer topped with a black urathine.
IMO of course
If i were you, or to do my project over again (which i did) i would (did) use an epoxy primer topped with a black urathine.
IMO of course
#14
Banned
Thread Starter
#15
Banned
Thread Starter
por 15 SUCKS. do not put it on shiney metal. it stands for Paint Over Rust. it WILL peel off of sandblasted, sanded, or clean metal. also, the por15 that i bought was not uv safe. and being as how i put it on a frame also, i thought it wouldnt matter. however it still faded and peeled.
If i were you, or to do my project over again (which i did) i would (did) use an epoxy primer topped with a black urathine.
IMO of course
If i were you, or to do my project over again (which i did) i would (did) use an epoxy primer topped with a black urathine.
IMO of course