DeweyND

Red,

That works as well, but if you take the cover off, your able to wipe out any "sludge" found in the bottom of the pumpkin. Also, gives you a nice way to actually look at the gears, for any signs of damage.

Dewey

fschiola

OOO..., be sure that the level of the fluid is 0.75" + or - 0.25" BELOW the fill hole (on the rear axle) or you can cause the the wheel seals to start leaking. "Fill to the bottom of the hole" is not good advice on our trucks.

Moose10

I think I've heard this before, but I still don't understand why this would matter. If you add a Mag-Hytec, you've got a lot more fluid in the axle than stock levels.
Can someone explain this

GAmes

Or if you are continuously parked with one side low? The outer bearing is flooded with oil during operation so it stands to reason the seal is wet then too. Seals start leaking only when they are worn or damaged IMO.

caper

I agree , what pi$$es me off is after putting syn lube in the gasket starts to weep after a while , I use black RTV , next time I,m trying grey , Does anyone make a reusable rubber gasket for a D80 ?????

fschiola

If you check with the Mag-Hytec people I think you'll find that the increased capacity using their cover comes from the cover being deeper not the level being higher. The level with their cover will still be at the stock "height" in the diff.

fschiola

If you do a search on this subject you will find that many wheel seal leaks have stopped on their own after the level of the fluid reaches the proper level. It has more to do with expansion from heating during operation than from how it's parked, etc. A plugged vent tube can also cause this as well. I would check the level and correct it if necessary before I would replace a seal, look for the simple stuff first.

fschiola

My truck's came from the factory with "gray" sealant. You might want to try Loctite's Ultra Gray.

droy

I've had the come across the same problem more than once.
Options are making your own gasket, if a factory one is not available, although I don't think I'd make one out of rubber.

Another thing about using the RTV, is reading the instructions. No insult intended!!!
Most people, (myself included), just don't do that good of a job of cleaning the surfaces to be sealed. Those surfaces need to be SUPER clean, with no film left on the contact face. After putting a coating of RTV on the surfaces, some manufacturers of the sealant require a waiting period of up to one hour before assembling parts.

Had a continual weeping problem on the front drive of my eighteen wheeler, where the chunk bolted up. After three trys, and three leaks in almost the same location, I made the comment to a mechanic friend that there must be a defect in that spot. He told me to clean it thouroghly, then follow the directions about curing time before assembly, and wow; it STILL leaks!!
50K miles, and leak is now almost the size of a quarter, so I think I'll let it be.

Tate

I'd say the leak quits once no more oil is able to get into the hub. 0.5 - 1" is right around the area of bottom of the ID in the spindle. Once the oil gets below that level, it won't flow into the hub anymore, unless it is inclined. If there is no oil flowing there, then there is no way for any debris or contamination to get flushed out of the hubs, at which point you may as well just run grease in the bearings.

If you're loosing wheel seals, check for a groove in the spindle, and check the vent. I put a speedi sleeve on, and cleaned out the vent (it was plugged pretty good), so now its a wait and see thing to see if it fixed or not.

caper

I clean it extra good with brake cleaner and am careful even not to tuch the surfaces with my fingers , I've done probally 50 diffs and only have problems with syn fluid , it doesnt leak right away it takes months. I'm thinking of cutting my own cork gasket and trying that.

fschiola

The level spec I posted earlier is contained in your owners manual. A quick check there will show the level for the front axle as well (if equipped). There must be a reason to run it at that level if that's what's recommended from the factory. The newer axles have a fill level below the fill hole as well.