Burnt up another headlight switch even with relay harness
#1
Burnt up another headlight switch even with relay harness
Well, Ive done a lot of reading about the headlight harness and switch,My original one melted and I had no lights. So i got new one with pigtail from napa and relay kit from summit for headlights and installed it all. Worked good for a year. Got pulled over for no running lamps. Pulled switch out yesterday, and plug was melted again. Whats up with that? Napa switch had 2 year warranty, so they gave me a new switch and plug. The first replacmet switch from napa had a chrysler logo on it, this new one doesn't.
Whats happening, I can't go around carrying a spare switch and harness all the time. Help is appreciated. Recall does not apply to my truck.
Whats happening, I can't go around carrying a spare switch and harness all the time. Help is appreciated. Recall does not apply to my truck.
#2
If the new harness and relays are good there should only be enough draw on the headlight switch to make the relays trip. If your still burning up the switch you most likely have a short some where between the switch and the relays. Check the cables under the hood from where your original sockets were and follow them back towards the firewall. Something is probably rubbing against ground.
#5
Got another problem.
I got new switch. I drilled holes in the duct work last time. I cut wires off of plug one by one and crimped on insulated spade connectors, labeled them, and reconnected all to new switch. Everything works now, EXCEPT, the dash lights are always on. Had to pull fuse to get them off. Going to check wires again and pin positions.
This means that it is getting power from some where, either, wrong wire is on pin, wires melted/arc'd together, or new switch is bad.
I did have trouble with trailer plug the other day, about the time of the melt down, Could wires in truck side plug be shorting..................but that has nothing to do with dash lights.
What about a dash light relay sticking?
Anyone have any experience with this?
This means that it is getting power from some where, either, wrong wire is on pin, wires melted/arc'd together, or new switch is bad.
I did have trouble with trailer plug the other day, about the time of the melt down, Could wires in truck side plug be shorting..................but that has nothing to do with dash lights.
What about a dash light relay sticking?
Anyone have any experience with this?
#6
Well I have the same problem with the switch burning up. I've got running lights and headlights jus not both at the same time. On the way home tonight my headlights started flickering on and off. Took the switch out tonight when I got home and the connector has 3 wires with plastic melted around them. the whole connector is breaking apart. I thought it was jus a switch but looks like its not going to be that easy. Was there any recalls on this? I had a 96 start to do the same thing.
#7
Ok, here's the deal...
There was a recall: http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/819.htm
Good luck getting them to do anything now. My local idiots supposedly did all the recalls on my '96 several years ago, right after I bought it. They didn't even install most of the parts included in the parts packs. What a rip-off!! They didn't add the relay to the ignition switch or headlight switch either. They did some sort of rigging for the blower motor that I have never quite figured out- I think it is not even fused any more!
After burning up two HL switches- one the headlights failed, but I had running lights. That time, the connector was still ok. Second time was the park/running lights and melted the connector. Previously, I bought a new switch.
To fix this, I bought a nice used switch and connector with about a foot of wire out of a wrecked truck in the salvage. I was lucky, as enough of the front of the truck had been destroyed so the wiring harness was not salvageable, and I could cut off the plug.
I installed two 30/40A "ice cube" relays- one to carry the load of the headlights, and one to carry the park/running lights. You just about have to have the factory service manual with wiring diagrams to figure out where to tie in.
Another thing that shortens the life of the switch is running with the dash lights dimmed. Less heat is produced with them all the way to "bright", just before the interior lights come on.
Good luck getting them to do anything now. My local idiots supposedly did all the recalls on my '96 several years ago, right after I bought it. They didn't even install most of the parts included in the parts packs. What a rip-off!! They didn't add the relay to the ignition switch or headlight switch either. They did some sort of rigging for the blower motor that I have never quite figured out- I think it is not even fused any more!
After burning up two HL switches- one the headlights failed, but I had running lights. That time, the connector was still ok. Second time was the park/running lights and melted the connector. Previously, I bought a new switch.
To fix this, I bought a nice used switch and connector with about a foot of wire out of a wrecked truck in the salvage. I was lucky, as enough of the front of the truck had been destroyed so the wiring harness was not salvageable, and I could cut off the plug.
I installed two 30/40A "ice cube" relays- one to carry the load of the headlights, and one to carry the park/running lights. You just about have to have the factory service manual with wiring diagrams to figure out where to tie in.
Another thing that shortens the life of the switch is running with the dash lights dimmed. Less heat is produced with them all the way to "bright", just before the interior lights come on.
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