Broken ash try notch on dash can it be fixed
#1
Broken ash tray pivot pin! can it be fixed?
Hello guys. On the way home last night I hit a big pothole or something and bam. My ash try just about falls out of the dash. Turns out one of the plastic pivon pins that the ash try slides onto cracked and a piece fell off. I saved the piece. Can I use some sort of epoxy or superglue to fix this? Or will I need a new lower dash?
thanks
thanks
#2
My experience is that superglue wouldn't hold for long. There are some great adhesives out there. My latest projects have been getting Power Poxy 'Super Cement' and/or Shoe Goo.
Shoe Goo has worked real well so far. Power Poxy Super Cement worked well for some glass+metal bonding but let me down on the ABS parts I've tried to repair.
Shoe Goo has worked real well so far. Power Poxy Super Cement worked well for some glass+metal bonding but let me down on the ABS parts I've tried to repair.
#4
I'm out of ideas
I tried Super Glue and something called UHU Glue. Neither worked. I'm going to start looking for junkyards.
If I were to take the dash off does anyone have any recommendations on what I should replace while I got the dash off?
If I were to take the dash off does anyone have any recommendations on what I should replace while I got the dash off?
#7
I forgot another useful tool -- hot glue. If you have a glue gun they can work wonders. I've not looked specifically but there also may be various composition of glue sticks, suited for different materials.
If the inside is hollow of the piece you could drill some small holes, say pencil lead sized, on both parts and 'stitch' the holes with epoxy and gob some in the hollow area... to give the glue some good holding points.
It may be that glue only on the broken sides, that are joining when you hold it together won't cut it..
That looks like a tough thing to glue. Don't rush the glue. A trim piece repair I did with shoe goo I let sit for around 72 hours before reinstalling it. Too soon and it might have been a do-over.
If the inside is hollow of the piece you could drill some small holes, say pencil lead sized, on both parts and 'stitch' the holes with epoxy and gob some in the hollow area... to give the glue some good holding points.
It may be that glue only on the broken sides, that are joining when you hold it together won't cut it..
That looks like a tough thing to glue. Don't rush the glue. A trim piece repair I did with shoe goo I let sit for around 72 hours before reinstalling it. Too soon and it might have been a do-over.
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#9
Hope it works for you.
If it doesn't hold you might learn something good by talking to someone at a collision repair shop. The ones that I have been to know a lot about the adhesives and other magic stuff out there.
Push comes to shove you might have some luck with some heat. A hot soldiering iron to melt both joining edges and smacking them together could be the cure. Actually this could be much better than any adhesive, except you only get 1 or 2 chances to get it right before it's FUBAR.
If it doesn't hold you might learn something good by talking to someone at a collision repair shop. The ones that I have been to know a lot about the adhesives and other magic stuff out there.
Push comes to shove you might have some luck with some heat. A hot soldiering iron to melt both joining edges and smacking them together could be the cure. Actually this could be much better than any adhesive, except you only get 1 or 2 chances to get it right before it's FUBAR.
#10
Might try some 4 min. J-B Weld. Clean both parts. Might even take the separate piece you pictured and use a bench grinder (or a hand file) and remove just a little on the butting edges, like you would for a fillet weld. This gives you more adhesion surface area without protruding glue.
Use a 16p nail to apply the weld to the parts. That gives you room to see and your fingers clean. Lay the nail on the piece you mixed the two parts on. You can use that to know when the glue is truely set! (the lid of a plastic butter container works excellent to mix the weld on)
Then use some duct tape to hold on a form made for a cardboard about the thickness of a box you'd get your printer ink cartridges in. The form and tape will keep the weld from dripping.
If there are drips or anything a little out of place you can use a die grinder, file or sandpaper to finish the surface.
Use a 16p nail to apply the weld to the parts. That gives you room to see and your fingers clean. Lay the nail on the piece you mixed the two parts on. You can use that to know when the glue is truely set! (the lid of a plastic butter container works excellent to mix the weld on)
Then use some duct tape to hold on a form made for a cardboard about the thickness of a box you'd get your printer ink cartridges in. The form and tape will keep the weld from dripping.
If there are drips or anything a little out of place you can use a die grinder, file or sandpaper to finish the surface.
#14
Randy and PK
I don't have access to the back side right now. I tried the PVC pipe cement and it didn't hold. I only let it dry for a day though. I may try it one more time then if not off to Home Depot for some Gorilla glue. I've heard that stuff is mean.
thanks
Bob
I don't have access to the back side right now. I tried the PVC pipe cement and it didn't hold. I only let it dry for a day though. I may try it one more time then if not off to Home Depot for some Gorilla glue. I've heard that stuff is mean.
thanks
Bob