lgp9999

Today after making an emergency stop (with the brake pedal pushed to the floor) my BRAKE light and ABS light in the instrument cluster both came on. The pedal has to be put almost to the floor to stop now, and the brake fluid keeps going down slowly although I cannot find a leak anywhere. It's gotta be going somewhere... any ideas what's happening?

John Faughn

It sounds like a couple problems , you may have blow a seal inside of the master cylinder , could be losing fluid on the passanger side of the fire wall , did you look up under the dash were the the linkage for the brake peddle goes to master ?
Keep pumping the bakes and look for leaks , maybe inside of the rear drums , not enough to come out yet .

lgp9999

Well I found the leak. It's in the rear brake line... now here's the bad news. Someone filled the master cylinder with ATF. All of the brake components are going to have to be replaced. The guy at Les Schwab gave me a quick estimate of $2500+, so I'm checking junk yards and finding most of the parts pretty cheap. If anybody has any brake parts (i.e. Master Cylinder, Brake calipers, drums, ABS stuff, etc.) let me know, as I may be interested in buying them.

Also is it worth doing a rear brake upgrade of any sort while I'm at it? I've heard that the 3500 has beefier rear brakes... is that a bolt on affair for a 2500?

yfz450guy

don't know if this helps but i have 2 front rotors off my 3500 if you need them.
the brake system can't be flushed and refilled?

lgp9999

Nope, the dude told me that once petroleum contacts any rubber parts in the brake system they're toast and they'll start leaking soon. The rotors are fine, so I won't need to replace them... much thanks for the offered help though!

ScottN

I understand people often put in a GM 1-ton wheel cylinder, as it is about halfway between a 2500 and 3500 in terms of cross section area.

lgp9999

Thanks. If it's not a complete bolt on affair I'd rather not prank with it right the moment.

Clayten

Napa 4637337 This is worth doing. One ton wheel cylinders.

infidel

It is a complete bolt on, exactly like the stock cylinders except a bigger diameter = equals stops better.

That $2500 price seems way too high. You can buy a pair of cylinders and calipers and a master for under $200. Throw in $200 max for all new hoses. Not sure on the price of the ABS unit but doubt it's $2100.

lgp9999

He said that he didn't know exactly how much it would be, but he did the same thing in a Dodge Caravan a few days ago and it was $2500. I'm sure that's with labor. Anyway, I'm finding that I can get everything used locally (except the ABS pump, I'll have to have a remote JY ship one to me) for just over $150. I save so much $$$ by doing work myself!

John Faughn

You save more and buy seal kit for most of that , if its your labor & time is not too much of an issue .

lgp9999

I'd rather just unbolt parts and bolt new ones back on. I just got a good master cylinder and two calipers for $105. That's half the parts I need, minus the lines.

lgp9999

Is it the same part # for both sides?

Or has anybody ever done a rear disk conversion from a 3rd gen? What would that involve?

Clayten

It is the same part for both sides, with this you don't need disks. The difference is amazing.

lgp9999

All the parts that I need I either already have or are in the mail headed my direction... with the exception of lines. Does anybody have any reccomendations on where to get a brake line kit?